B&M Transmission Dipstick

XRANGER2019

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Wanted to write up a quick post on how I installed the B&M transmission dipstick (part number B&M 22200), and share what I learned. And, hopefully if anyone else finds better ways of installing or other alternatives can post their experience as well.

Step 1, I thoroughly cleaned around the stock transmission dipstick before removing. My truck has ~68k miles and lots of offroading trips behind it, so there was a lot of dirt around the dipstick port. Additionally, I was very careful to cover the hole when moving parts above, as dirt would fall into the transmission if left exposed.

Step 2, remove the stock dipstick. I removed the rear two fasteners for the passenger side wheel well cover to get a little more access. I'm not sure how it's possible to check the stock dipstick without A) burning yourself B) dropping dirt onto the dipstick or into the transmission hole and C) Seeing what you're doing? All reasons I decided to spend the money on the external dipstick.

Step 3, I had to jack the truck up in the front to get a reference fluid level that registered on the dipstick. On my downward sloped driveway the fluid level was above the top of the dipstick. After raising the front of the truck ~6 inches, I was registering around the #2 mark on the dipstick. This is with a completely cold engine/transmission and around ~80 degrees ambient temperature, engine off.

Step 4, figuring out the routing and mounting of the dipstick outer tube. Starting with installing the bottom, I went straight up to the rear of the engine. Note that the outer tube is braided steel, I was careful to choose a path that avoided any wiring or hoses that could be abraded against with the tube vibrating against them.
I decided to mount the top of the dipstick to the engine, since the engine and transmission will move due to flex of the motor mounts relative to the body/chassis. Hopefully this will reduce the amount of vibrating/rubbing on other components. Alternatively it could be mounted somewhere on the passenger side fender with enough slack in the tube to allow for movement.

1665984060435.png


1665983187311.png


I secured the upper part of the hose on the stock AC line with a rubber tube as a spacer, and I put a section of rubber hose where the tube passes the (plastic) brake line to prevent any chance of the brake line getting damaged from the tube vibrating (even though there was a couple inches in between the two).
I quickly made an aluminum bracket that mounted the end of the dipstick onto the two mounting holes on the valve cover (I'm guessing these were used for the stock engine cover if equipped?).
Note on the mounting bracket, if I were to do it again I would make it a bit higher up and angle the dipstick tube downwards. In order to add fluid with this setup requires removing the bracket to angle the end of the tube upward (with a tiny funnel).

1665984153082.png


Step 5, transfer the oil level marks from the stock dipstick to the B&M dipstick. Following the instructions, the method is to mark the stock dipstick fluid height, then the B&M dipstick fluid height (this is the "reference height"). Please note that depending on the routing/bends of the outer tube, this height may change, so do this after the outer tube is fully installed to reduce error.

1665983540865.png


As you can see here, the #5 mark is basically "any oil on the dipstick at all" and the #4 mark is towards the lower of the flat section. The top mark is the "height reference" mark to align the two dipsticks.
I used a triangular file to make a small mark on the flat section of the B&M dipstick to reference the #4 position on the stock dipstick. When checking, as long as the fluid is anywhere on the dipstick up the that mark, I'll know it's in spec.

After all this, I checked the fluid according to the manual (getting the transmission up to full operating temperature, shifting through D-R, engine running) and I found my oil was about half a quart low from the factory.

In the future, this setup should greatly facilitate verifying oil levels after fluid flushes. I'll likely pair this with the aluminum oil pans with drain plug and start periodically flushing the oil.
Hears what i did made a bracket similar to yours
xx.jpg
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On my F150 I welded a AN fitting to the trans dipstick cap, ran some line up and installed a another fitting, drilled and tapped a plug as a cable clamp, balled the end of the cable with a torch clamped the other end in the plug, marked the cable with the hash marks.

The parts were stuff I had, if you had to buy them combined with the labor, it was still cheaper, but a lot of work, I must have been up and down under the truck 40 times.

When I was done, I thought the stupid price was not quite as stupid as I thought when I started, still stupid though!

If I had a made template and had a pile of caps I could bang out a pile of them, but the first one is always the hardest.
 

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For anybody who has installed the B&M dipstick, if you are going to toss the stock cap, I will take it or buy it, I have not priced one at the dealer yet, but I would like to make dipstick for the Ranger, I did try to match the thread pitch with my AN fittings, but it's metric, B&M may have used a off the shelf metric fitting at the trans, that would make it dumb simple to make!!!
 
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TJC

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I used a triangular file to make a small mark on the flat section of the B&M dipstick to reference the #4 position on the stock dipstick. When checking, as long as the fluid is anywhere on the dipstick up the that mark, I'll know it's in spec.

After all this, I checked the fluid according to the manual (getting the transmission up to full operating temperature, shifting through D-R, engine running) and I found my oil was about half a quart low from the factory.

1665983540865.png


As you can see here, the #5 mark is basically "any oil on the dipstick at all" and the #4 mark is towards the lower of the flat section. The top mark is the "height reference" mark to align the two dipsticks.
I used a triangular file to make a small mark on the flat section of the B&M dipstick to reference the #4 position on the stock dipstick. When checking, as long as the fluid is anywhere on the dipstick up the that mark, I'll know it's in spec.
I appreciate the time and quality of your work. I am using your writeup to assist me in adding my PPE pan and B&M Dip stick. When reviewing your info I think I found an error with your fill levels.

You mention you added from 4-5 when hot. But manual states that with engine running and going through all gears: When hot, level should be between 5 & 6.

If it is cold, it will be a block lower, below 6. This is still with engine running and after going through all the gear ranges, but cold.

See the picture below from the manual.

1673454823465.png


Am I missing something?

Maybe this is why you were 1/2 qt low? I wonder if 6 will even show up on the B&M dipstick?

Here's a better image. Cold Level is the red block, Hot level is the yellow area.
1673456223891.png


- T
 
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Dr3wDrop

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I appreciate the time and quality of your work. I am using your writeup to assist me in adding my PPE pan and B&M Dip stick. When reviewing your info I think I found an error with your fill levels.

You mention you added from 4-5 when hot. But manual states that with engine running and going through all gears: When hot, level should be between 5 & 6.

If it is cold, it will be a block lower, below 6. This is still with engine running and after going through all the gear ranges, but cold.

See the picture below from the manual.

1673454823465.png


Am I missing something?

Maybe this is why you were 1/2 qt low? I wonder if 6 will even show up on the B&M dipstick?

Here's a better image. Cold Level is the red block, Hot level is the yellow area.
1673456223891.png


- T
This is interesting.
 
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Drizzt

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I appreciate the time and quality of your work. I am using your writeup to assist me in adding my PPE pan and B&M Dip stick. When reviewing your info I think I found an error with your fill levels.

You mention you added from 4-5 when hot. But manual states that with engine running and going through all gears: When hot, level should be between 5 & 6.

If it is cold, it will be a block lower, below 6. This is still with engine running and after going through all the gear ranges, but cold.

See the picture below from the manual.

1673454823465.png


Am I missing something?

Maybe this is why you were 1/2 qt low? I wonder if 6 will even show up on the B&M dipstick?

Here's a better image. Cold Level is the red block, Hot level is the yellow area.
1673456223891.png


- T
Interesting find, which version of the shop manual is that from? I was working from the shop manual I found in this post:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/2019-ranger-technical-shop-manuals.1548/

Here's the applicable page:
1674153122798.png
 

TJC

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That is VERY INTERESTING. I checked the manuals for the 2019 Ranger and found the identical reference that you posted.

The other reference (my original comment above) came from the Ford 10R80 manual. See the PDF below. I also checked it against a general fluid/filter replace video for the 10R80 transmission by FordTechMakuloco beginning at the 39 minute mark.
Ford 10R80 Ten Speed Transmission: Fluid and Filter Service Procedure

Maybe this discrepancy has something to do with people finding their fluid level low in their Rangers. Ford may have filled the 10R80 to the F150 spec or the generic 10R80 spec.... just a thought.

Note 5 clears it up
5. NOTE: The transmission fluid level indicator uses 1 through 6 to indicate the fluid level. The different numbers are for different vehicle models.

I am inclined to now trust the Ranger service manual over the general 10R80 references (your original post).

You'd think the fluid levels would be the same for all 10R80 applications.

I have that sheet laminated and posted on the wall in my garage. Time to go update it.
Thanks for the clarification.

- T
 

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TOMDEE

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Thank you for the write up.

I have both the PPE deep transmission pan and the B&M dipstick on the shelf, but have not gotten around to installing them. I casually looked at the path needed to route the dip stick clear of the exhaust, turbo heat, and clear of any obstructions when I installed a solid drive shaft needed to eliminate the shudders a couple of weeks ago.

The info you provided will further assist me in that effort. I am hoping to find a way to mount the dip stick vertical, but I appreciate the trade off that you found necessary. There are not a lot of places to mount the top, and placing in somewhere on the engine does seem the most reliable as it minimizes flexing.

Thanks again for the details.

T
WITH THE DOUBLE DRIVE SHAFT, WHAT SPEED MPH WERE YOU GETTING A SHUDDER?
 

TJC

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WITH THE DOUBLE DRIVE SHAFT, WHAT SPEED MPH WERE YOU GETTING A SHUDDER?
From start to ~20mph, and when slowing to a stop at the same speed. Then =>75mph. The greater the speed the worse the shutter. It would not cease until I dropped below 75mph.

I also had transmission issues, esp when stopping the transmission didn't want to disengage coming to a stop. Had hard shifts too.

All of the above ceased when I installed the TW driveshaft.
 

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From start to ~20mph, and when slowing to a stop at the same speed. Then =>75mph. The greater the speed the worse the shutter. It would not cease until I dropped below 75mph.

I also had transmission issues, esp when stopping the transmission didn't want to disengage coming to a stop. Had hard shifts too.

All of the above ceased when I installed the TW driveshaft.
WOW, GLAD YOU POSTED THIS
 
 



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