Anybody else experience a fan clutch going bad?

[QCRanger48]

I’ve got a 2019 with just under 40k miles on it and got in it last week and after about 30 seconds of idling, the low oil pressure light came on. Immediately turned it off. Called the dealer, the service advisor figured it was just a sensor that had gone bad but recommended it be towed just in case. Got a call today that it was ready to be picked up and the repairs were covered by my extended warranty, just had to pay the $100 deductible. The service notes are attached, but basically the fan clutch wiring came undone and shorted out, causing a fuse to blow that also affected the oil pump, hence the low oil pressure. It was a good thing it was towed. Idling in traffic at Phoenix temps with low oil pressure could’ve led to some serious overheating issues.

Just curious if anyone else had this sort of issue and hope this can possibly help someone else if this were to happen to them!

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[KJRR]

I think maybe there have been a few problems with that.
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fan-clutch-sensor.23456/post-528374

 

[Vitis805]

@Project Midnight

 

[ControlNode]

It's one of those things I check at oil changes. When my starts to go I think I'll try bending some fuel hard line into about that shape but a little shorter at each end and use a couple rubber, or silicone, couplers so secure it. having just a couple straight pieces on the end of a shaped tube in place of that molded hose means it'll be easy to maintain after that molded hose is obsolete.

 

[got3fords]

So it was the wiring that worked loose and took out the clutch and oil pump? I need to check that.

 

[airline tech]

So it was the wiring that worked loose and took out the clutch and oil pump? I need to check that.

Negative:

This is a poorly designed Fan Clutch, that should be a RECALL.

Look at the Pic below, and see the Molded Hose, that goes nowhere?

This Molded Hose is the anti-rotation for the Electric Module on the back side of the Fan Clutch.
Now note the Wiring Harness that is attached to the Hose.

I have not had one apart yet, but I believe that the Electronic Module of the Clutch will free spin and the hose keeps it in place, by not allowing it to rotate freely.
So, either the Fan Clutch locks up (Failed) and it forces the hose to break or the hose breaks due to constant torque on it.
Once the hose breaks free it takes the wiring harness with it and rips the wiring harness apart.
There was another thread on this awhile back.

This explains how it takes out the Oil Pump, though its mechanically driven it is electronically variable controlled (Pressure)
Note: Power Feed from Fuse feeds the Fan Clutch as well as the Variable Oil Pump Solenoid.
So, most likely Fuse Blew when this occurred.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

It’s not the oil pump. That’s internally mounted and chain driven. The P06DB refers to the engine oil pressure control solenoid. Most likely fan clutch failure damaged wiring for the solenoid that tripped the CEL. Poorly written failure description I believe.

 

[Fitzmotor]

My fan clutch used to only chirp in the morning, the dealer couldn't verify, now it chirps all the time, I'm concerned it will lock up and do the same thing.

Oh well, a trip to the dealer, even though it's a inconvenience, it's better than having to fix it myself, at least until the warranty runs out.

 

[airline tech]

Negative:

This is a poorly designed Fan Clutch, that should be a RECALL.

Look at the Pic below, and see the Molded Hose, that goes nowhere?

This Molded Hose is the anti-rotation for the Electric Module on the back side of the Fan Clutch.
Now note the Wiring Harness that is attached to the Hose.

I have not had one apart yet, but I believe that the Electronic Module of the Clutch will free spin and the hose keeps it in place, by not allowing it to rotate freely.
So, either the Fan Clutch locks up (Failed) and it forces the hose to break or the hose breaks due to constant torque on it.
Once the hose breaks free it takes the wiring harness with it and rips the wiring harness apart.
There was another thread on this awhile back.

This explains how it takes out the Oil Pump, though its mechanically driven it is electronically variable controlled (Pressure)
Note: Power Feed from Fuse feeds the Fan Clutch as well as the Variable Oil Pump Solenoid.
So, most likely Fuse Blew when this occurred.

Here is the Variable Oil Pump Solenoid.
Under L/Front Fender Wheel Liner

 

[Project Midnight]

@Project Midnight

Wow lol…

 

[underwhelmed]

My fan clutch used to only chirp in the morning, the dealer couldn't verify, now it chirps all the time, I'm concerned it will lock up and do the same thing.

Oh well, a trip to the dealer, even though it's a inconvenience, it's better than having to fix it myself, at least until the warranty runs out.

I am wondering if you could describe the chirp? I heard noises this morning, but leaning towards injector pump rather than fan clutch, but honestly don’t know.

 

[Fitzmotor]

This is the noise, it's slowly gotten worse and more frequent, I have to get it fixed before it fails.

 

[underwhelmed]

This is the noise, it's slowly gotten worse and more frequent, I have to get it fixed before it fails.

Thank you very much for the reply. I do not have the chirp. Just the injector pump noise I think. Good luck on that fan clutch. Now I’ll be listening for it as well. Coming up on 50k miles.

 

[Fitzmotor]

It has done it since day one, the dealer has NPF'ed it several times, the old "no problem found"

 

[Dr3wDrop]

It almost sounds like resistance in the belt with how consistent the noise hits.

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