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Alternator Charger for Solar Generator

JaysOnTheEDGE

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Hello,

I was wondering if anyone is running a Alternator charger for a solar generator and if so how did you wire it up. Can be any brand or style (Anker Solix, EcoFlow, Bouge RV, Jackery, Bluetti) they all wire the same way just lookin for insight on how you mounted it or ran wire from battery? I have an Anker Solix C1000 Gen 2
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Thanks to the Variable Voltage on the truck you will need to make sure the Charger has a way to charge the Battery/Fake Generator while the vehicle is in Low Voltage Mode. Unlike older vehicles that constantly run around 14.4-14.7 volts, the Ranger can be anywhere between 13-14.4 volts as it pleases. For a DC-DC Charger you would have a signal wire that gets a switched 12 volt source to inform the Charger that you have a Variable Voltage System.

Keep that in mind
 

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i ran my along the frame from the truck bed. Used the spot where you can add the 12 volt plug to get it cleanly from the bed to the truck frame. just ordered some extra wire and spliced it to the kits wire. LMK if you want any pictures
 

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I forgot to mention that you will want the Negative Cable of the Charger to go to the Body or Chassis of the vehicle and not directly to the Negative Terminal of the Battery.
 

jflogerzi

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I forgot to mention that you will want the Negative Cable of the Charger to go to the Body or Chassis of the vehicle and not directly to the Negative Terminal of the Battery.
explain why?
 


ctechbob

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explain why?
To make sure all of the current runs through the trucks BMS sensor.

Do those 'generators' have the ability to take a varied voltage or do they need a set input voltage to properly charge.
 

Frenchy

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explain why?
Because of the Variable Voltage System. On the Negative Cable you have a lovely Amp Meter that monitors the AMPS going in and out of the Battery. If you bypass that with any electrical accessory by connecting the ground directly to the Negative Terminal then you will have problems with the Charging System not operating correctly and the Battery not getting charged correctly.

Keep in mind I am referring to the Starter Battery on the vehicle. This is common for many vehicles out there with a Veritable Voltage System.

Also if you want, go ahead and look in the Owners Manual. You will find it stating to connect the Ground of any electrical accessory to a Body or Chassis Ground and not directly to the Negative Terminal on the Battery.
 

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To make sure all of the current runs through the trucks BMS sensor.

Do those 'generators' have the ability to take a varied voltage or do they need a set input voltage to properly charge.
yes they do.
 

LawnMM

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I ran mine along the frame from the bed up to the engine compartment and battery. I put the cables in some room and taped it for protection first.

The bluetti version comes with a giant fuse and switch, those reside in the bed, I keep it shut off when not charging anything.
 

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I ran mine along the frame from the bed up to the engine compartment and battery. I put the cables in some room and taped it for protection first.

The bluetti version comes with a giant fuse and switch, those reside in the bed, I keep it shut off when not charging anything.
You need an additional fuse as close to the battery as possible. This is to protect the truck in case something happens to the wire between the battery and the back of the truck. If you hit something and get a dead short that wire can catch fire and burn the truck down.
 

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Let's handle this a step at a time:

1. What do you mean by "running a Alternator charger?" Your truck has an alternator which charges its battery. Are you looking to add another alternator?

2. Assuming you're not, and all you want to do is keep you Anker Solix's battery charged, all you have to do is set up a device to charge it from the vehicle's charging system.

3. You have a AGM (Absorbed Gas Mat) battery in your truck. The battery in your device is LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). They are different chemistries and charge differently (different voltages, different steps). So, to properly charge the LiFePO4 battery from your vehicle's charging system you should install a DC-DC charger. It will regulate the voltage and current going to the device, get it properly charged and prevent overloading the truck's charging system.

4. Victron is a major manufacturer of these devices. You can buy them in different rated amperage depending on the charging load on the device.

Hope this helps.
 

ctechbob

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Let's handle this a step at a time:

1. What do you mean by "running a Alternator charger?" Your truck has an alternator which charges its battery. Are you looking to add another alternator?

2. Assuming you're not, and all you want to do is keep you Anker Solix's battery charged, all you have to do is set up a device to charge it from the vehicle's charging system.

3. You have a AGM (Absorbed Gas Mat) battery in your truck. The battery in your device is LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). They are different chemistries and charge differently (different voltages, different steps). So, to properly charge the LiFePO4 battery from your vehicle's charging system you should install a DC-DC charger. It will regulate the voltage and current going to the device, get it properly charged and prevent overloading the truck's charging system.

4. Victron is a major manufacturer of these devices. You can buy them in different rated amperage depending on the charging load on the device.

Hope this helps.

He doesn't need any of that. Directly from the manual for his unit:


1771897416021-23.webp


He just needs suitable wiring to support 10 amps of current draw, his Anker has the necessary onboard circuitry.

Now, if you want to get funky and charge it faster, you could use a DC/DC and up the voltage to solar voltages and shove that power in through the solar port and get faster charging, but I'm guessing he just wants simple.

Or a big inverter to shove the current through the AC charge ports. But that's going to lose a lot in the conversions.

I might even be inclined to pull that 10 amps from the 7 pin trailer connector. I believe it maxes out at 15 amps, and is controlled by the TCM so it is already switched. Although I don't know exactly what the TCM looks for in order to enable that charge line.
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