Alignment Concern

[real_zeke]

Hey All,

I recently added a 2.5 level to my Ranger (XLT 4x4) and got an alignment right after. Now I didnt get the alignment at the dealership, but went to another shop that was closer to my place. These are the results after the alignment. I am no expert by any means, but can someone help me understand these and confirm these are good numbers? The shop tech said I should not worry about the camber being outside of spec range... but its still bugging me that its in red. Thanks in advance!

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[Loweredon33s]

I would have sacrificed a little caster to get camber to zero or even a little negative. Positive camber handles like shit. My truck on about a 2.5” level had enough adjustment to get better numbers than that.

 

[Frenchy]

I will agree that the alignment isnt correct. Not all know how to use the available tools with tge alignment machines and that is a big part of it.

 

[Dereku]

Absolutely terrible. I would take it back in a second and ask why everything could not be in spec. Service writers hate me when I get alignments. Only thing that I will let someone else touch my truck for.

 

[JasonTremor]

Looks like a toe and go alignment to me. They just adjusted toe and didnt touch caster or camber settings.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I will agree that the alignment isnt correct. Not all know how to use the available tools with tge alignment machines and that is a big part of it.

You should start a new thread for this Chris.

 

[Whiplash]

I run with an unconventional alignment setup, here are the reasons why. I also own a Mazda RX8 one of the best cornering vehicles for less than $100K ever made. It come factory stock with 6.0+ of Castor,and .4+ of camber
and 0° toe... While 0° is best for tire life it also is "twitchy" . Racers will set up toe a little in or out based on if they go in a straight line , or around road tracks...

I live the in the Ozarks of Mo. where most of my driving is on twisty roads, so cornering performance is a high priority. To loose the twitchyness of the zero toe, I have gone to a high positive castor angle...combine that with a higher camber angle, that will flatten towards zero in a hard corner and you will get a larger, flatter edge to edge contact pressure....working with a alignment tech that does alot of custom setups for offroaders and track racers, this what we came up with...Handles great , and tread wear is even across tire....

.Don"t look at the before specs...this alignment was done after boogering the numbers with one of my many suspension mods...

 

[GitRDone]

I have the 2.5" front lift also and was able to get a proper alignment, maybe ask for a more experienced tech.

 

[Friday yet?]

I would have sacrificed a little caster to get camber to zero or even a little negative. Positive camber handles like shit. My truck on about a 2.5” level had enough adjustment to get better numbers than that.

Thread hijack alert!

Is that your truck in your account avatar? If so, have you posted any pics here? (I searched. Came up zero.) If not, would you please do so? That color is killing me! In a good way. Would love to see the entire truck.

 

[Loweredon33s]

It’s my truck, my comment was related to when it was level lifted and it no longer is so I didn’t want to confuse anyone with a picture. But since you asked.

 

[Friday yet?]

It’s my truck, my comment was related to when it was level lifted and it no longer is so I didn’t want to confuse anyone with a picture. But since you asked.

Awesome looking truck! And as most knowledgeable forum members, car fans, humans, with good taste will tell you, BLUE is the best color for a Ranger! (Well, actually for damn near anything, but I digress.)

 

[real_zeke]

Thanks everyone for the input.
I ended up taking it to another shop. The tech there said that the bolts are maxed out and the only way to get the camber/caster back into spec is by buying a camber kit. Quoted me over 500$ for parts/labor. So now I have some questions:

1. Do the factory camber bolts not have much play to adjust alignment back to spec after a level/lift? Or even close to spec?

2. Is is difficult to change out the camber bolts myself?

Below are some pictures of the bolts if that helps.

 

[JasonTremor]

Thanks everyone for the input.
I ended up taking it to another shop. The tech there said that the bolts are maxed out and the only way to get the camber/caster back into spec is by buying a camber kit. Quoted me over 500$ for parts/labor. So now I have some questions:

1. Do the factory camber bolts not have much play to adjust alignment back to spec after a level/lift? Or even close to spec?

2. Is is difficult to change out the camber bolts myself?

Below are some pictures of the bolts if that helps.

Second shop is lying as those bolts haven't been touched since leaving the factory.

 

[Frenchy]

If only you were close by and I had an alignment rack. I would be able to fix that

 

[real_zeke]

Second shop is lying as those bolts haven't been touched since leaving the factory.

I wouldve expected to see some 'clean' black paint from the LCA if the bolts were moved... but dont see that and thats what caught my eye the first time it went to get aligned. I wish I had marked them with a paint pen before taking it to its first alignment.

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