Aftermarket subwoofer

[deton8r]

Has anyone figured out if there's a way to upgrade the sub but use the factory B&O amp and wiring connection?

I added a little Kicker KXA 400.1 amp and 10" sub in the cubby hole with the box from Australia. The B&O amp is in-tact but I did also replace all the speakers with some Infinity Reference drivers as well as do some sound proofing.

I didn't want to go too crazy and have to replace the B&O amp and add the Zen and another 5-channel amp. The install was not too involved and the sound quality is much improved.

What I used:
Infinity Reference 6530CX components front doors w/2800Hz caps on tweeters
Infinity Reference 6532IX coax rear doors tweeters set to +3db
Infinity Reference 3032CFX center
Metra adapter rings for front and rear doors
Metra speaker harness adapters
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" dual 4 Ohm voice coil sub wired to 2 Ohms
Under seat sealed fiberglass box from Australia w/.4 lbs Acousta-Stuf
Kicker KXA400.1 amplifier w/wireless remote
Dynamat Xtreme on doors and rear wall
RAAM Audio Ensolite closed cell foam (1 layer)
Stinger RKFR6 Roadkill Fast Rings on front and rear doors
Kicker PK8 8 gauge power cable kit

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[Porpoise Hork]

I added a little Kicker KXA 400.1 amp and 10" sub in the cubby hole with the box from Australia. The B&O amp is in-tact but I did also replace all the speakers with some Infinity Reference drivers as well as do some sound proofing.

I didn't want to go too crazy and have to replace the B&O amp and add the Zen and another 5-channel amp. The install was not too involved and the sound quality is much improved.

What I used:
Infinity Reference 6530CX components front doors w/2800Hz caps on tweeters
Infinity Reference 6532IX coax rear doors tweeters set to +3db
Infinity Reference 3032CFX center
Metra adapter rings for front and rear doors
Metra speaker harness adapters
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" dual 4 Ohm voice coil sub wired to 2 Ohms
Under seat sealed fiberglass box from Australia w/.4 lbs Acousta-Stuf
Kicker KXA400.1 amplifier w/wireless remote
Dynamat Xtreme on doors and rear wall
RAAM Audio Ensolite closed cell foam (1 layer)
Stinger RKFR6 Roadkill Fast Rings on front and rear doors
Kicker PK8 8 gauge power cable kit

I have been considering upgrading the doors and center channel with Reference or something similar. As for the sub, just upping it from the 5 1/4" or what ever it is to perhaps an 8" that could be driven off the B&O amp sub channel without adding an additional amp to do it. I just have not been able to find out what the system produces per channel to size everything correctly.

I have already added sound proofing mat to the back panel and doors. Adding it to the doors made the biggest improvement to the overall sound quality and tightened up the mid bass considerably. In the end I'm just looking for a little cleaner overall sound and a touch more low end out of it.

 

[fusseli]

You'll have a hard time trying to use the stock B&O sub amp channel and signal for an aftermarket sub. It's filtered for a puny 5" driver in a ported box. You'll get less output than the stock B&O unless you use another ported box. The best Ranger sub upgrade is a more powerful aftermarket amp and the aussie fiberglass box.

 

[deton8r]

Gotcha - you'd need to find a very efficient sub because I'm guessing the B&O amp is probably only putting out 20-25 clean watts.

If you did nothing more than a sound deadening treatment on the doors and back wall the B&O setup would sound much much better. Had I not ordered everything at once, I would have called it good with just the Dynamat and sub/amp.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Gotcha - you'd need to find a very efficient sub because I'm guessing the B&O amp is probably only putting out 20-25 clean watts.

If you did nothing more than a sound deadening treatment on the doors and back wall the B&O setup would sound much much better. Had I not ordered everything at once, I would have called it good with just the Dynamat and sub/amp.

I suspect the door channels are around that level of power given the wattage rating on the OEM B&O speakers is 25w, but even adding the center and tweeters it still just doesn't add up to the rated 675w of the advertised B&O system. I may contact Crutchfield and see what they say about it. I was also looking at possibly swapping the factory sub with something like this if upgrading the door speakers doesn't improve the mid bass to my satisfaction. I completely agree The difference in the sound quality after adding the deadning mat is amazing. Something I'm glad I went and did last weekend.

 

[Bdubjax]

The noise can be turned off now via forscan. They just figured it out recently.

What are they turning off? Speaking of forscan that stupid honk when you shut a door while the engine is running has to go lol

Edit: found it, awesome, thanks. https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/disable-fake-engine-noise.2885/

 

[Moose8994]

It fits. I am selling mine if interested. has JL audio 10 in it.

You don’t still have the box for sale do you!?

 

[WarpedAlien]

Anyone ever try adding one of these in place of the factory joke! https://www.kicker.com/hideaway-hs10

 

[BuzKilington]

I don't think there's enough air space for a 8w6. I almost went the route of a custom install in that cubby space, but the budget would've been 6 times what I paid for my JL Audio 8" micro sub behind my seat. model #CP108LG-W3v3

Hey I am wondering how you are fitting that box…are you not putting the seat back up? I have tried a truck style box from JL with a depth almost identical to that 8 box. Does not fit. I also have tired a active Box at 5” depth. Doesn’t fit. The model of the 5” is JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1. If anyone has any info or help. Please let me know. I really don’t want to use a hideaway.

 

[theanswer3]

Hey I am wondering how you are fitting that box…are you not putting the seat back up? I have tried a truck style box from JL with a depth almost identical to that 8 box. Does not fit. I also have tired a active Box at 5” depth. Doesn’t fit. The model of the 5” is JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1. If anyone has any info or help. Please let me know. I really don’t want to use a hideaway.

That box will fit if you cut out the carpet. I tired 3 different similar boxes and they all fit, one from alpine,, one from.kicker, and one from jl. I just didn't like the end result sound wise.

 

[BuzKilington]

That box will fit if you cut out the carpet. I tired 3 different similar boxes and they all fit, one from alpine,, one from.kicker, and one from jl. I just didn't like the end result sound wise.

That box will fit if you cut out the carpet. I tired 3 different similar boxes and they all fit, one from alpine,, one from.kicker, and one from jl. I just didn't like the end result sound wise.

Thanks for your reply, I have had the carpet out. And it still will not close. I did however look back at his past post now and see that he mentioned how he did it, so I may try that. Idk how I overlooked that post lol. Thanks again!

That box will fit if you cut out the carpet. I tired 3 different similar boxes and they all fit, one from alpine,, one from.kicker, and one from jl. I just didn't like the end result sound wise.

I took the carpet out. It will fit in the space but I can not put the seat all the way back up.

 

[BuzKilington]

My next question what has everyone been doing with the Jack stand holder thing. Leaving it and building a stand around it. Or removing it? It’s welded on it looks like. Thanks again in advance.

 

[CoachJ]

Sound on a Budget: It took some time but I finally got the airspace needed to get the sound I wanted. Kinda came out nice I think. Thanks to all those who post here and share. It made wiring much easier for me by observing the adventures of others. Cheers.

Welllll now I know how I'm spending my weekend. This looks incredible. I'm going to have to try my best to replicate it lol.

 

[Robisten8]

My next question what has everyone been doing with the Jack stand holder thing. Leaving it and building a stand around it. Or removing it? It’s welded on it looks like. Thanks again in advance.

Sorry, I don't come here much anymore, but it looks like you got your question answered. As far as the jack, I installed one of the swing out tool boxes in my bed. I keep the jack there along with jumper cables, tie downs, work gloves, etc.

 

[no1warr1or]

First I want to say thank you to everyone for input regarding hooking into the factory B&O system.

Secondly this build will not be everyone's taste, that's fine, but I built what I wanted and wanted to share, Im big into home audio and car audio.

I have a 2021 lariat. Im using the Zen Audio A2B processor connected to a prv DSP. Then I have 6 PRV 8" midrange on a prv 3500watt Amp. Then a skar skv2 200.4 running 4 titanium tweeters on channel 1&2 @ about 800rms, and a skar audio 8" ZVX8 on channels 3&4, also about 800rms. The center console is getting redone as im not happy with the output but for now this is what ive got

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