8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability

[GKinTN]

Has anyone here tackled the install themselves of the official Ford trailer brake controller?

I’m comfortable with DIY projects in general, however what scares me on this install is tearing into the headliner panel to access the high mount brake light wiring. Maybe just best to have the dealer install, but I’m still debating. That said I just ordered the brake controller today from my local Ford dealer, and it should be here later this week.

If I end up having the dealer install anyone here get a fixed rate price quote, or know how many hours of labor their books/computer system say to charge?

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[Steven D Tipton]

Has anyone here tackled the install themselves of the official Ford trailer brake controller?

I’m comfortable with DIY projects in general, however what scares me on this install is tearing into the headliner panel to access the high mount brake light wiring. Maybe just best to have the dealer install, but I’m still debating. That said I just ordered the brake controller today from my local Ford dealer, and it should be here later this week.

If I end up having the dealer install anyone here get a fixed rate price quote, or know how many hours of labor their books/computer system say to charge?

I order mine last week. If I get into it soon. I'll post how things go. Dealer priced match for me 273.81 out the door. Guess that was fair price.

 

[t4thfavor]

In terms of towing weight, the Ranger can tow more than other mid-size trucks. There is a Ford trailer brake controller, or at least one that Ford says is theirs. I had it installed by the dealer.

But that literally came out in November (you could get the RedTek prior to that, but the install procedure would not make it safe according to Ford). I got my truck 4th of Feb 2019, and towed with it all year using the FACTORY SUPPLIED harness.

The issue isn't that Ford doesn't have a "compatible" controller, it's that theirs is the only one "Certified", has a retarded install procedure (which if I were you I'd verify they only used two of the 4 wires under the dash), is 4x more money than the "best in class" controller from the aftermarket, and cannot be removed from the vehicle if you wanted to tow with another tow vehicle.

I order mine last week. If I get into it soon. I'll post how things go. Dealer priced match for me 273.81 out the door. Guess that was fair price.

Make sure they are getting the proper ford controller, and make sure they do the "Ford" blessed install (through the headliner) as that price wouldn't even cover the labor at regular dealership rates.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

But that literally came out in November (you could get the RedTek prior to that, but the install procedure would not make it safe according to Ford). I got my truck 4th of Feb 2019, and towed with it all year using the FACTORY SUPPLIED harness.

The issue isn't that Ford doesn't have a "compatible" controller, it's that theirs is the only one "Certified", has a retarded install procedure (which if I were you I'd verify they only used two of the 4 wires under the dash), is 4x more money than the "best in class" controller from the aftermarket, and cannot be removed from the vehicle if you wanted to tow with another tow vehicle.



Make sure they are getting the proper ford controller, and make sure they do the "Ford" blessed install (through the headliner) as that price wouldn't even cover the labor at regular dealership rates.

Yes, I definitely have the right kit coming. I own a repair shop and I'm planning on installing my self. I'll take a look at everything, when it arrives. I'm not paying dealer price. If it's over my head. It will go back but I'll check it out before deciding.

 

[gbritt89]

 

[Steven D Tipton]

I was finally able to look up on alldata and see if they had the headliner removal procedure. I can confirm they list removal for both Supercab and Supercrew. So I'll be doing mine. Of course when kit gets here.

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Dealer call me today and kit came in. Talk them down a tad more. 260.72 I went ahead and installed. Was not to bad. A few things I noticed. Zip ties, alot not useable, used my own. The two heat shrink connectors, was not in box but listed as was supposed to be. Well, best as I can tell. The bolts that you will remove, will not be listed right. The new plugs that go inline with taillight. You will either have black or gray. Make sure you use matching color. There's two black or two grey that you will use. Very important because the direction are very useless. On this part atleast. The line you run to taillight, it will have a split on the end. 3 wires, each side. You will be putting the pin wires in the new clips. There are specific to each clip. Color code to match, in direction. Only bring this up because, one clip will have a white tab not pushed in. Do not push it in till you load all three wire and you must hear them all three click before white tab will slide and lock in. Lol listen closely, they will click. The square pins go in the one that has slide white clip out. Headliner, when you get to this part. Run your fingers along edge above liner. I would say about a foot and half from right corner to center. Just give it a tug and it will pop loose. Then go another foot or so left and pop other one. I did remove my clothes hanger tab but I don't believe it's necessary. So for the long post. Just wanted to try to help anyone I could..

 

[GKinTN]

Really appreciate the install tips!

 

[MIKEMCFI]

Full install instructions PDF.

Under dash PDF shows location of ground wire at left kick panel going to location G400, Ground Location PNG shows ground location. (picture is bad it is not by the tailgate handle but on the right frame rail).

Why they ran a ground so far who knows? Engineers?

Using the ground already at the kick panel is the same and shortens the run, is in the cab less likely to have corrosion and possibility of problems.

Brake applied input from third brake light supplies a input to the brake controller for all braking events, driver or automatic. The other wires are pass thru and not used. Bed light and ground.

The trailer lamp ecu from the kit is providing isolation for the brake light wire only. I is used in many other applications and has the ability to control all trailer light functions. Again Engineers why?

One wire could have been run with a "T" connector and have built in isolation. This could have been done just as easy in production and supplied a brake light input instead of a brake pedal applied input. VT-WH wire.

Ground wire run to the back makes no sense from a production standpoint. It may be a small thing but saving the wire, connectors and weight on production units would add up.

Bottom line,

WH GND or cab ground location. if you get the kit from Redarc you can add a loop terminal and use the ground in the cab, or splice to the white wire and ground at the rear frame rail. Low draw ground, It is only for the TBC.

WT-VH BOO FD wire provided or install an extra harness and module to have a brake light vs pedal input? You decide if it is worth the extra cost and installation?

YE-OG VBATT is battery power input - same both kits

BU TBC OUT is a wire that goes from under the dash to connector C422 at the rear cab exit to 95-3 which is the plug and the back of the trailer plug.

 

[Noseoil]

Glad I put mine in the trailer, just plug in the wires at the bumper (7 pin harness) & it's finished!

 

[Steven D Tipton]

Glad I put mine in the trailer, just plug in the wires at the bumper (7 pin harness) & it's finished!

I consider one of those units I believe you got. Unfortunately I have a few different trailers. That's the way to go if your hauling one trailer. It's perfect

 

[THLONE]

This shows the beauty of this web site. Ford wasnt really ready to go with Ranger but they knew that smart people would step up and find solutions . And thanks to this web site we all can benefit. Thanks Ranger5g.com one of my favorites.

PS I dont see the recalled connector C422, Anyone have the PIC of that location. It is supposed to be in the middle of the truck.

 

[Jerry Caldwell]

Went by my dealer today to order the “Official Ford” version of the Redarc brake controller. I have been towing for several months using the Redarc Towpro Elite, which is just like the Ford version but using the four supplied wires. It works fantastically well but I was a little concerned about being able to actually turn AEB off. When it comes in all I have to do is run the harness to the third brake light, ground and two Ford supplied wires at the kick panel and we will be ready to go. I will be putting the Redarc Towpro Elite up for sale on EBay to recoup some money from this Ford fiasco.

By the way, my dealer did not have a clue this was available and it did not show up in their parts system. Way to go Ford!

 

[Drabber3]

Any chance there is a module that brake gain is adjusted through wheel or dash controls? Just picked up my new ranger today and paid 500 (at ford dealer) to have he trailer brake controller added.. after I got it home I started checking out controls and I see nothing for gain control. Nothing similar to the OEM kits posted in this thread . FML. What did they install?!?! Lol

 

[gbritt89]

I will be installing mine and plan on doing a lengthy write-up with pictures come Monday or Tuesday when I am off work. Still praying that ford will just figure out a part number for my XL less factory tow package between now and then so I have the intended blue wire put on the truck at the factory and get to use the fancy "-C" harness I payed 80 something dollars for. If not I will be switching back to my factory rear harness and tying in the 7 way adapter off of the "-C" harness and running my own TBC and power wire. Yay for useless dealership parts and service people!!!

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