( 33”+ Tires, poor mpg. ) What tune are you running on your Ranger?

[Wes Siler]

There is a replacement clamshell for the front now, so... technically gears are available.

To the OP, I would definitely check the speedometer. I run 285/75r17s and I get 20-21 during the summer and 16-17 with winter fuel. I was getting 21-22 with the 255/80r17s.
EDIT: I forgot to add, I have the Ford Performance tune. I love it.

Have a link or anything for more info?

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[Colo_Ranger]

Have a link or anything for more info?

Link

you can follow the link in the video from that thread. It’s for the Bronco, but fits the Ranger. I haven’t seen a price, so I’m ready to not be able to afford it, but it’s there.

 

[Wes Siler]

Link

you can follow the link in the video from that thread. It’s for the Bronco, but fits the Ranger. I haven’t seen a price, so I’m ready to not be able to afford it, but it’s there.

Interesting. I'll run that past my mechanic and see if it all pencils out.

Debating whether to keep the Ranger or buy a new Super Duty next year. If I stick with Ranger, I'd definitely like to get it on bigger tires via gears.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

I know a lot of people who run 35s with no issues. I’d like to gear, as I’ve lost some crawl ability, but I can live. I have no plans to ditch the ranger.

 

[Wes Siler]

I know a lot of people who run 35s with no issues. I’d like to gear, as I’ve lost some crawl ability, but I can live. I have no plans to ditch the ranger.

You're going to lose a lot of gearing, a ton of mpgs, and all the performance above 285/75-17 without gears. Gearing disadvantage alone would undo any advantage of road. And you'd be putting enormous stress on the engine, cooling system, and transmission.

I ran tire sizes and gears past Toyo's head engineer (who previously worked on 200 series, and the TRD program at Toyota). He ran the math and said absolutely not, without regearing.

 

[Stic-o]

I'm running a 285/75/R17 (34") and getting 20 mpg on the highway. Running the Ford Performance programer on 91.

 

[Rambo2020R]

Everything changes MPG.

Bigger Tires

Lifts.

Levels.

Removing the front air dam.

Adding a push bar.

Adding a grill guard.

Adding light bars or round lights that air has to slam into.

Adding doo-dad attachments (wich I will self proclaim as the winner, as my truck now has the aerodynamics of of a brick sporting 4 wheels).

Understand for Ford to meet MPG estimates they have fine tuned everything down to the comical factory rake of the front nose dive.

I can get about 17.4 MPG if I grandpa the throttle and never exceed 65MPH on the highway using cruise control. Real world MPG is similar to yours, between 13.5 and 14.5 MPG

285/70/17
3" Front / 1" Rear
93 Performance Tune

300+ lbs (not including payload cargo) of permanent steel fabrications and lots of attachments that would make a wind testing engineer cry like a baby if he put it in a tunnel.

Here is a depiction of my truck and aerodynamics;

What are your tire pressures?

31 cold ( sub freezing & no run time )
39-41 warmed up

 

[Rambo2020R]

There is a replacement clamshell for the front now, so... technically gears are available.

To the OP, I would definitely check the speedometer. I run 285/75r17s and I get 20-21 during the summer and 16-17 with winter fuel. I was getting 21-22 with the 255/80r17s.
EDIT: I forgot to add, I have the Ford Performance tune. I love it.

How was the power gain after tune?

 

[Rambo2020R]

I'm running a 285/75/R17 (34") and getting 20 mpg on the highway. Running the Ford Performance programer on 91.

How do you like that tune?

 

[Rambo2020R]

Those wheels look pretty hefty

25 lb each

 

[Rambo2020R]

BLUF: I don't know of a tune that will undo adding weight and large tires to your truck.



There is a large correlation between the speed with which the skinny pedal is pressed and mpg. As there is a correlation between length of time said skinny pedal spends on the floorboards and mpg.

Just because you have "the same size tires" or "same modifications" someone has doesn't mean they will get the same results. (this goes for a lot of things from mpg's to overall performance)

What is the weight difference in the new tires VS old tires? When you increase tire size you increase unsprung weight.

Those big manly tires might look great, but they come at a cost. There is a reason many folks have dedicated off-road rigs that they trailer in. They have done the calculus and realized they want the off road performance and are willing to sacrifice onn road manners to get it. (they also might just have more money to throw at the problem).

I definitely understand what you’re saying. This truck is my daily driver ( for now. ) It’ll eventually be on 37s and strictly an offroad toy, but it’s not there yet.
Old tires and wheels weighed 66lb each. So 264lb for 4. New tires and wheels weigh 92lb each so 368lb for 4.

 

[D Fresh]

31 cold ( sub freezing & no run time )
39-41 warmed up

Odd swing.

Have you chalk tested them?

My tires, exactly the same except on 17" wheels, like 35.5 cold. And they only come up to a max of 39 hot. Not sure if yours are E rated though.

Check with Toyo but I'd bet 31 cold is too low for that tire size. Low tire pressures equal low MPGs.

 

[Stic-o]

How do you like that tune?

Very happy with it so far. Easy to put in. Plus gaining 2.5 mpg was a big plus. Haven't towed with it yet, or at least not more then like 3k lbs.

 

[bRaptor]

8 mpg seems too significant. You're getting the mpg of a standard 4 cylinder. Seems very odd if you only added 26ish pounds per wheel.

 

[Rambo2020R]

Odd swing.

Have you chalk tested them?

My tires, exactly the same except on 17" wheels, like 35.5 cold. And they only come up to a max of 39 hot. Not sure if yours are E rated though.

Check with Toyo but I'd bet 31 cold is too low for that tire size. Low tire pressures equal low MPGs.

They are E rated 10 ply

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