10R80 Repair Question

[RangerATK]

I noted that the pages are uploaded backwards - Pg 1 is actually pg 2

So, they replaced the Outer Shell, T-Convertor, Shift Cable, Valve Body and Turbo
Trans Fluid & Filter & Eng Oil & Filter

Pg 1 (Final) CDF Leak Test - PASS

For Ref: The CDF Cylinder (Drum) as pointed out is not listed as being replaced. IDK why they would skip that part if it is already torn down.
Plus, the repair procedures of the TSB call for both to be replaced with NEW

The only thing I can think of is the Tech Determined the issue to be with the T-Convertor and Valve Body and found wear on the (Container Cylinder) it really all boils down to - what were the before repair (Test Results) as they are now using a (Automated Test via FDRS) and the adaptive tooling to walk them through the test procedure.

JR3Z-7H351-B​	1​	1​	1​	CDF Cylinder
PC3Z-7B177-A​	1​	1​	1​	Clutch And Planetary Container Cylinder

Thanks for all the replies. I posted all the paperwork they gave me for the work done. So if there was more done it wasn't listed. I do agree that it seems they didn't replace the CDF which I know is the main culprit for all the 10R80 issues. Why they didn't I'd have to go ask and see if the tech would be willing to explain.

I guess I just wonder how it passed the CDF leak test if they didn't replace the drum since that was what i thought was at the main indicator of a bad trans. The old CDF would have leaked

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[Trustable]

Thanks for all the replies. I posted all the paperwork they gave me for the work done. So if there was more done it wasn't listed. I do agree that it seems they didn't replace the CDF which I know is the main culprit for all the 10R80 issues. Why they didn't I'd have to go ask and see if the tech would be willing to explain.

I guess I just wonder how it passed the CDF leak test if they didn't replace the drum since that was what i thought was at the main indicator of a bad trans. The old CDF would have leaked

I pressed them quite a bit on the CDF drum, apparently the dealers and ford believe that unless there is physical damage to the drum it’s not getting replaced. So when the CDF drum eventually pushes out of place, they will have to tear it all down again.

 

[airline tech]

I pressed them quite a bit on the CDF drum, apparently the dealers and ford believe that unless there is physical damage to the drum it’s not getting replaced. So when the CDF drum eventually pushes out of place, they will have to tear it all down again.

That is my frustration with this TSB - Granted this is not a (Recall) where there is no deviation of steps allowed.
However, if it fails the leak test, the repair procedure clearly states replace, it gives no (if only damaged or shows signs of movement)
So, they are deviating from the repair procedure and what has me frustrated is that this is the part that pushed the TSB to be implemented.
So, from a Tech's perspective and if this were me doing the repair, showing signs of damage or not It's getting replaced with the updated part. I can almost guarantee if this was the Tech's own vehicle or friend or family it would be replaced with new.
I would fully understand skipping this replacement (if and only if) it was not labor intensive to replace down the road and did not require the transmission to be torn apart (rework) so somewhere up the chain (bean counters) are gambling on the undamaged drum will remain undamaged and roll the dice for a part that is not that expensive, so it boils down to disregard the repair procedure as outlined and only replaced if visible damage / movement is present.

But you also have to take into account - what were the test result findings prior to the teardown.
The guided test via FDRS

 

[Trustable]

That is my frustration with this TSB - Granted this is not a (Recall) where there is no deviation of steps allowed.
However, if it fails the leak test, the repair procedure clearly states replace, it gives no (if only damaged or shows signs of movement)
So, they are deviating from the repair procedure and what has me frustrated is that this is the part that pushed the TSB to be implemented.
So, from a Tech's perspective and if this were me doing the repair, showing signs of damage or not It's getting replaced with the updated part. I can almost guarantee if this was the Tech's own vehicle or friend or family it would be replaced with new.
I would fully understand skipping this replacement (if and only if) it was not labor intensive to replace down the road and did not require the transmission to be torn apart (rework) so somewhere up the chain (bean counters) are gambling on the undamaged drum will remain undamaged and roll the dice for a part that is not that expensive, so it boils down to disregard the repair procedure as outlined and only replaced if visible damage / movement is present.

But you also have to take into account - what were the test result findings prior to the teardown.
The guided test via FDRS

In my case, the truck passed the test, but they still tore it all down after driving it after the TSB test. it makes no sense. All that work and they still refused to replace a 500 dollar part. In that thread I posted there is more info about it if you want. I mean at this point most of us have two options, get a new vehicle before powertrain warranty is up or give ford more money for an esp. I cannot express how much I do not want to give ford more money lol.

 

[RedlandRanger]

In my case, the truck passed the test, but they still tore it all down after driving it after the TSB test. it makes no sense. All that work and they still refused to replace a 500 dollar part. In that thread I posted there is more info about it if you want. I mean at this point most of us have two options, get a new vehicle before powertrain warranty is up or give ford more money for an esp. I cannot express how much I do not want to give ford more money lol.

If (when) my transmission gives up the ghost, I'm not giving Ford any more money. I'm taking it to a very reputable local transmission shop for repair. I'm very sure it will end up costing me less than it would at Ford. Since my truck is paid off, even though a transmission repair would be expensive, it will still most likely be cheaper than buying a new truck.

 

[Trustable]

If (when) my transmission gives up the ghost, I'm not giving Ford any more money. I'm taking it to a very reputable local transmission shop for repair. I'm very sure it will end up costing me less than it would at Ford. Since my truck is paid off, even though a transmission repair would be expensive, it will still most likely be cheaper than buying a new truck.

I have noticed there is not as many transmission shops as their used to be. And to be honest around me there’s barely any mechanic shops.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Here’s my 2 cent suggestion for those who are having issues and prior to contacting dealer. It’s becoming increasingly noticeable that CDF drum replacement isn’t guaranteed even if the transmission is tore down and repaired under warranty. So my suggestion is this. Be proactive with the dealer and make it absolutely clear that if your CDF drum passes the test but they find to still need to tear down your transmission. Then tell them you want to have the updated CDF drum installed and that you will pay for the part. Labor shouldn’t be an issue as they would be inspecting it anyways. Make sure you convey this up front before they start tearing into it. Make sure they note it on the repair order and that you get a copy of it.. Also have them contact you with findings before proceeding.

 

[gilbert77]

Are all Rangers built before 8/2022 going to have eventually have problems covered by the TSB? I've got a 2022 I purchased 2/2022 with only 17,700 miles on it.

Mines June 2022. Need to have the tranny fixed a few months ago. Only 30k on it.

 

[mre]

Right after taking delivery of my Ranger 2/22, I noticed (what I think) is transmission sloppiness in shifting. I started using Tow/Haul mode not long after that (less than a thousand miles) and still use it to this date. I haven’t had any issues but then again, I only have about 17,900 on mine.

Of those having issues and any using tow/haul all the time?

Something I noticed is that many of these posts are from people that come from areas that have some significant cold. I live in Central Florida and have never experienced that kind of cold that many of you do. I remember living up north and how “stiff” every vehicle I owned got in the cold. Do you think there is any relationship there?

I don’t tow with mine though I tow it behind a motorhome. Any of these have any significant towing?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue, just trying to access my situation.

 

[Trustable]

Right after taking delivery of my Ranger 2/22, I noticed (what I think) is transmission sloppiness in shifting. I started using Tow/Haul mode not long after that (less than a thousand miles) and still use it to this date. I haven’t had any issues but then again, I only have about 17,900 on mine.

Of those having issues and any using tow/haul all the time?

Something I noticed is that many of these posts are from people that come from areas that have some significant cold. I live in Central Florida and have never experienced that kind of cold that many of you do. I remember living up north and how “stiff” every vehicle I owned got in the cold. Do you think there is any relationship there?

I don’t tow with mine though I tow it behind a motorhome. Any of these have any significant towing?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue, just trying to access my situation.

The cold definitely makes it worse - but my transmission when taken apart had deep gouges, lots of metal debris, and stuck valves, so the cold didn’t just cause that. I have a thread on it you can find if you go to my profile.

The only thing ford attributes to the cold is oil dilution which is just a cop out for bad QC on piston walls and rings IMO.

if your under warranty I would highly recommend having them perform the TSB and drive it, might as well do it as it’s free until the warranty is up.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Right after taking delivery of my Ranger 2/22, I noticed (what I think) is transmission sloppiness in shifting. I started using Tow/Haul mode not long after that (less than a thousand miles) and still use it to this date. I haven’t had any issues but then again, I only have about 17,900 on mine.

Of those having issues and any using tow/haul all the time?

Something I noticed is that many of these posts are from people that come from areas that have some significant cold. I live in Central Florida and have never experienced that kind of cold that many of you do. I remember living up north and how “stiff” every vehicle I owned got in the cold. Do you think there is any relationship there?

I don’t tow with mine though I tow it behind a motorhome. Any of these have any significant towing?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue, just trying to access my situation.

2/22 build here too. Used tow haul pretty much all the time after delivery. Still had delayed shifts. At around 17000 dealer confirmed delayed shifts and started the steps for the TSB at that time ( early 2024). Did all the steps including valve body change and still had issues. Dealer replaced the transmission with new in July of 2024. Tow haul was a nicer ride but didn’t do anything for the issues.
It’s been flawless since.

 

[Chris M]

Right after taking delivery of my Ranger 2/22, I noticed (what I think) is transmission sloppiness in shifting. I started using Tow/Haul mode not long after that (less than a thousand miles) and still use it to this date. I haven’t had any issues but then again, I only have about 17,900 on mine.

Of those having issues and any using tow/haul all the time?

Something I noticed is that many of these posts are from people that come from areas that have some significant cold. I live in Central Florida and have never experienced that kind of cold that many of you do. I remember living up north and how “stiff” every vehicle I owned got in the cold. Do you think there is any relationship there?

I don’t tow with mine though I tow it behind a motorhome. Any of these have any significant towing?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue, just trying to access my situation.

I live in Phoenix.
Never use Tow/Haul mode.
Rebuilt at approx 45,000 miles because...Ford.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

The cold definitely makes it worse - but my transmission when taken apart had deep gouges, lots of metal debris, and stuck valves, so the cold didn’t just cause that. I have a thread on it you can find if you go to my profile.

The only thing ford attributes to the cold is oil dilution which is just a cop out for bad QC on piston walls and rings IMO.

if your under warranty I would highly recommend having them perform the TSB and drive it, might as well do it as it’s free until the warranty is up.

You should hear the fuel dilution story about our 2021 Honda CRV. This issue plagues most modern turbocharged cars. Some worse than others. Our Ranger has some issues when cold weather but nothing like the Honda did.

 

[RangerV]

Probably a dumb question, but transmission related.
Replaced at 53000 (2021 XLT) last November under warranty but started having issues again within the first 4000 of the new one. Took it in and the tech said it ran great. Tried to find another dealer to look at it, but the 12000mile parts warranty wore off before I could get in, so I just let it ride. Currently at 73000 and it drives terribly.
Was looking under the truck today and noticed the transmission build date is 11/2020. Is there any way to check the serial number of the original build vs this “new one” or is that completely unrealistic?

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Probably a dumb question, but transmission related.
Replaced at 53000 (2021 XLT) last November under warranty but started having issues again within the first 4000 of the new one. Took it in and the tech said it ran great. Tried to find another dealer to look at it, but the 12000mile parts warranty wore off before I could get in, so I just let it ride. Currently at 73000 and it drives terribly.
Was looking under the truck today and noticed the transmission build date is 11/2020. Is there any way to check the serial number of the original build vs this “new one” or is that completely unrealistic?

Do you have a copy of the repair order from when they replaced it in November? Also a picture of the tag on the current transmission where you’re getting the build date from? Do you have the info off your original transmission ?

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