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Does anyone know what this disconnected tube dangling off the bottom of my engine is?

silversurfer

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Caruso ford in Long Beach installed a new motor in my truck incorrectly and it doesn’t run. Long insane story I will post here in the future… but in the meantime I’m trying to work my way through the existing issues to get my truck running again. They said my pcm was fried so I installed and reflashed a new one. Same codes. Some sort of electrical issue and I’m starting with replacing the exhaust back pressure sensor. When I was poking around I noticed this random disconnected tube dangling off the bottom on the engine… what is this thing??

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RangerBill

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Caruso ford in Long Beach installed a new motor in my truck incorrectly and it doesn’t run. Long insane story I will post here in the future… but in the meantime I’m trying to work my way through the existing issues to get my truck running again. They said my pcm was fried so I installed and reflashed a new one. Same codes. Some sort of electrical issue and I’m starting with replacing the exhaust back pressure sensor. When I was poking around I noticed this random disconnected tube dangling off the bottom on the engine… what is this thing??

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It is the breather for the front differential. See below.

Front Differential Breather.webp
 
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Big Blue

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Shouldn't the dealer who installed the motor incorrectly, incompletely it seems, be the one figuring out why it's not running?
 
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silversurfer

silversurfer

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Shouldn't the dealer who installed the motor incorrectly, incompletely it seems, be the one figuring out why it's not running?
Yeah, they should’ve but they didn’t and forced me to take back my truck in a worse state than when I brought it in over 3 months ago and pay them for the privilege. I will be taking them to small claims. But first I am focused on getting it running properly elsewhere. I’ll post a thread with full timelines of all their bs, lies and additional damage they did to my truck here if anyone’s interested…

Thank you @RangerBill for the info! 🙏
 

airline tech

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Post the codes you are getting and what specific issues you have with the engine
 


Mighty Little Blue

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Have you contacted Ford Corp about this issue? Has bad as they can be would think they would be interested in your situation. Insane you paid for a new engine and they gave it back to you not running. I would have paid by CC and then disputed it with the CC company.
 
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silversurfer

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Have you contacted Ford Corp about this issue? Has bad as they can be would think they would be interested in your situation. Insane you paid for a new engine and they gave it back to you not running. I would have paid by CC and then disputed it with the CC company.
Yeah, ford corp paid for $5k of this new engine and was helping me up until things got heated with the dealer who was threatening me $80/day storage when I threatened legal action against the dealer. Ford corp stepped away at that point and said that my issue was with the dealer.
 

RangerBill

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engine starts low idle misfires like crazy. Flashes a bunch of warnings.
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Your P06A8 code indicates a VREF short to ground. The VREF wiring is routed to many sensors and may be pinched somewhere. Here is a list of your fault code meanings from the shop manual. The VREF wiring is common to both the crankshaft position and exhaust pressure sensors, so it may be shorted to ground or faulty. Check that wiring to both sensors.

P0120 - Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch A Circuit

Description:

This DTC sets when there is a concern with the electronic throttle control (ETC) throttle position signal.

Possible Causes:
  • Damaged TP sensor
Diagnostic Aids:
This concern exhibits a symptom of limited power.


P033F - Crankshaft/Camshaft Loss Of Synchronization

Description:

This DTC sets when the input signal from the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or the camshaft position (CMP) sensor is erratic.

Possible Causes:
  • Damaged CKP sensor
  • Damaged CMP sensor
  • Base engine concerns
  • Harness concerns
Diagnostic Aids:

Check the harness for routing, alterations, incorrect shielding, or electrical interference from other systems.

P0473 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor A Circuit High

Description:

This DTC sets when the exhaust pressure (EP) sensor signal is greater than the self test maximum.

Possible Causes:
  • SIGRTN circuit open
  • EP circuit open
  • EP circuit short to voltage
  • Damaged EP sensor
  • Incorrect harness connection


P06A8 - Sensor Reference Voltage C Circuit Range/Performance

Description:

This DTC sets when the VREF circuit is not within a calibrated voltage range.

Possible Causes:
  • VREF circuit short to voltage
  • VREF circuit short to ground
  • Damaged sensor
Diagnostic Aids:
Check for other DTCs. Diagnose all other DTCs first.


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silversurfer

silversurfer

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The dealer mentioned a pinched wire several times but then claimed that there was never a pinched wire at the end when I towed my truck out of there.

Chatgpt suggested exhaust pressure sensor short. I ordered a new one arriving today and will swap after work. 🤞

Probably is a pinched wire somewhere though… they thrashed everything when they swapped the motor. My lightbar harness ripped off the terminals and acc sensor violently unplugged. This is a clip of me showing this one of the times I came down to the dealer when it was still there: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wte2PCepVSuqhrap7

Another wtf moment was when I asked them to check battery voltage on a subsequent visit and discovered it was at 11v… and they’ve been doing all this pcm reprogramming stuff with a dead battery. It was a newish healthy battery when I brought it in
 

Cabose-1

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Thats a breather tube
 

diesel924

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With those codes I would be running the harness visually and by feel everywhere that engine R+R would require disconnecting or mving aside a harness. Don't forget the bellhousing area, that's a favorite place for a butcher to sandwich wires on installation.
 

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From the initial history - and so many codes.
Yes, the (Exhaust Press Sensor) is a good place to start - Possibly coated with coolant and internally shorted from initial coolant leak.

A good check is pull up the Barometric PID and compare it to:
Exhaust Pressure and MAP Pressure - Reading @ KOEO - They should all (MATCH)

However, you have a PCM (Calibration) code P06A8 that may be throwing off the learned Barro, so use your Phone (Weather) App and find current Barro Pressure
If it lists it as (InHG) - Example: 29.92 In HG - Multiply by 0.49115 = 14.7 PSI, this will be the true Barro reading as the PID will most likely be in PSI

From there it's down to wiring checks (meter) to isolate it down - if that does not cure some of the codes.
You have a lot going on - and I think the main issue lies within the VREF for the Exhaust Press Sensor and its associated shared circuit.
 
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silversurfer

silversurfer

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No luck with the new exhaust back pressure sensor… hunting for pinched wires but it’s hard to see anything. Everything’s so tight 🙁
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