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2.3Eco in a Disco

TxOTRRanger

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Good job dude!👍
I'm definitely going to keep watching this build.
This is cool!😎🤘
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1020baja

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Alright for anyone looking for info on this transmission into Rangers, you can find it here:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/manual-trans-swap-mt88.32696/

Now back to the Disco. I finally have the electronic throttle pedal and Bronco clutch pedal in. It was no easy task requiring significant fabrication including cutting the clutch pedal in half and re-welding it back together. Ford was not messing around, the pedal is 1/2" thick 4140 steel so that was quite a bit of work to cut through. All of the clutch connections, including the reservoir are all made and completed - it's ready to plug straight into the transmission. Unfortunately due to a miscalculation in my welding, the pedal is a bit crooked, but oh well it's in, connected and solid. Considering how long this portion took, it is what it is. I may revisit it in the future, but for now it's not worth the time considering its functional.

20250112_135435.jpg


Now the good news is that the next task is putting on engine accessories, doing a dry fit of the drivetrain, and then getting the engine in! Progress should speed up a bit now that this bit of tedium is complete.
That took longer than I would have liked, but on round 3, I finally got made a trasfercase frame mount adapter that worked. Now the engine is in. I can conclusively say the alternator will not fit, like it's close... but not nearly close enough to make it work. So I'll pull the A/C compressor and throw the alternator over there with another custom fabricated bracket, then get new belts.

The rest of the engine clearance looks like it was made for the rover, PLENTY of axle clearance and no other interference issues.

Next steps are to get my engine mounts fabricated and welded in.

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Alright for anyone looking for info on this transmission into Rangers, you can find it here:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/manual-trans-swap-mt88.32696/

Now back to the Disco. I finally have the electronic throttle pedal and Bronco clutch pedal in. It was no easy task requiring significant fabrication including cutting the clutch pedal in half and re-welding it back together. Ford was not messing around, the pedal is 1/2" thick 4140 steel so that was quite a bit of work to cut through. All of the clutch connections, including the reservoir are all made and completed - it's ready to plug straight into the transmission. Unfortunately due to a miscalculation in my welding, the pedal is a bit crooked, but oh well it's in, connected and solid. Considering how long this portion took, it is what it is. I may revisit it in the future, but for now it's not worth the time considering its functional.

20250112_135435.jpg


Now the good news is that the next task is putting on engine accessories, doing a dry fit of the drivetrain, and then getting the engine in! Progress should speed up a bit now that this bit of tedium is complete.
what is the white plastic thing with a coil spring on the side of clutch pedal?
 
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1020baja

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That took longer than I would have liked, but on round 3, I finally got made a trasfercase frame mount adapter that worked. Now the engine is in. I can conclusively say the alternator will not fit, like it's close... but not nearly close enough to make it work. So I'll pull the A/C compressor and throw the alternator over there with another custom fabricated bracket, then get new belts.

The rest of the engine clearance looks like it was made for the rover, PLENTY of axle clearance and no other interference issues.

Next steps are to get my engine mounts fabricated and welded in.

20250327_124310.jpg
20250327_124024.jpg
20250327_124012.jpg
20250327_123931.jpg
20250327_124257.webp
what about relocating swapping locations of this belt pulley to the bottom alternator location and alternator to the upper area if possible it would benefit the alternator for high water crossing situations
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what about relocating swapping locations of this belt pulley to the bottom alternator location and alternator to the upper area if possible it would benefit the alternator for high water crossing situations
1761524053855-xe.webp
That was my primary path. But the radiator clearance won't allow it.
 


Glocker

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Any chance a different rad would allow the higher alternator location? Having it up high would be a HUGE benefit. How about a rad relocation? (Easier to conceive with a race car I image, where you don't have to worry about an obstacle tearing it up.)
 
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Any chance a different rad would allow the higher alternator location? Having it up high would be a HUGE benefit. How about a rad relocation? (Easier to conceive with a race car I image, where you don't have to worry about an obstacle tearing it up.)
There's a balance here... Making this the most perfect ideal 4 wheeler in the world... vs getting it driveable sooner than later.

Can't let perfect be the enemy of good or this thing will never be done. It's already a huge project, no need to make it a huger project.
 

TxOTRRanger

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There's a balance here... Making this the most perfect ideal 4 wheeler in the world... vs getting it driveable sooner than later.

Can't let perfect be the enemy of good or this thing will never be done. It's already a huge project, no need to make it a huger project.
No offense, but I interpreted this as something similar to what David Freiburger said about the vehicles on ROADKILL. "Don't get it right, just get it running." BTW, I have a couple of t-shirts and a hoodie with this on the back of them. Lol
 
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No offense taken one bit. Its a good saying. There have been some decisions I made that are probably over the top and not immediately necessary, but for the custom engineering and fabrication, which is both time and money intensive, I try to limit that as much as possible.
 
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Alright time for another update.

I'm still fully in the midst of the new steering box kit. I have to say I can absolutely NOT recommend the Blackbird Range rover steering box kit. It sucks in just about every way imaginable. It was very expensive. The supplied drag link is super wimpy, underbuilt and cobbled together and I will not put it on my vehicle. The geometry for the panhard bar is WRONG so I had to cut an inch out of my existing ultra heavy duty panhard bar, then weld it back together and sleeve it to maintain its strength. Lastly, the instructions show that a *tiny* corner of the shock tower has to be cut out to accommodate the steering U-joint, but in fact I had to cut a large 1" notch out of it for the length of it and weld in reinforcement. Their support has been non-existent. *rant over*. And yes, I followed the instructions exactly. I would have been better off custom manufacturing something on my own, and I would have been dollars ahead.

Anyway, I'm nearing the end, but this has been a much larger job than I anticipated. But hey, at least the alternator will fit.

I'm waiting on the panhard bar's paint to dry then I will reassemble that, put the wheel back on, design up an extension for my existing heavy-duty drag link, and install the alternator.... then onto the next task.


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That took much longer than I would have liked but:

  • Alternator is installed
  • Updated panhard arm bracket is installed
  • P38 Range rover steering box is installed
  • Steering U-joint and shock tower was clearanced
  • Panhard bar is shortened
  • Drag link is extended
Steering system complete.

Upcoming projects:
  • CLEAN UP. This heavy fab is dirty work
  • Attach transmission shift cables to shifter & anchor in place
  • Connect all hydraulic clutch connections, fill and bleed the system
  • Re-connect the parking brake drum
  • Install drive shafts
  • Install trail armor
  • Back to engine hook-up
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Project is alive and well. Still chipping away.

I finally got an intercooler that will fit. And have been through 3 iterations of brackets to anchor the trans shift cables, and got it installed. I just need to actually anchor the cables now.

A couple small airplane projects got elevated on my list, but the rover is still top of mind.
 
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Well quite a few steps back - but I'm excited about the new direction. The transmission shift cables will NOT fit with the transfer case shifter directly infront. At least not without being super janky and not something I'd be interested in trusting on the trail or in the wild.

So I'm going to pull the transmission and transfer case down, and remove the transfer case shifter and convert it to pneumatic. I will have 2 single-acting air cylinders put in place on the transfer case. One for selecting low range/ high range, and one for selecting 2wd vs 4wd. The LT230 tcase is unique in that those selectors are independent. I think this will clean up the vehicle operation and make everything move much smoother. It's a bummer since I put a LOT of time and effort into making the shift linkage work with the adapter, but oh well such is the way when doing something so custom.

So that means that once I pull the transmission and transfer case I will have to remove the shift linkage, then design and fabricate mounts for these air cylinders. Then the transmission shifter will have a clear shot in, and work very nicely.

In the good news area, I have the new A/C condenser installed, as well as the new radiator and fan. I just need to drill a couple quick holes to get the intercooler mounted and the cooling package will be complete.

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DukeCanBuildit

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Well quite a few steps back - but I'm excited about the new direction. The transmission shift cables will NOT fit with the transfer case shifter directly infront. At least not without being super janky and not something I'd be interested in trusting on the trail or in the wild.

So I'm going to pull the transmission and transfer case down, and remove the transfer case shifter and convert it to pneumatic. I will have 2 single-acting air cylinders put in place on the transfer case. One for selecting low range/ high range, and one for selecting 2wd vs 4wd. The LT230 tcase is unique in that those selectors are independent. I think this will clean up the vehicle operation and make everything move much smoother. It's a bummer since I put a LOT of time and effort into making the shift linkage work with the adapter, but oh well such is the way when doing something so custom.

So that means that once I pull the transmission and transfer case I will have to remove the shift linkage, then design and fabricate mounts for these air cylinders. Then the transmission shifter will have a clear shot in, and work very nicely.

In the good news area, I have the new A/C condenser installed, as well as the new radiator and fan. I just need to drill a couple quick holes to get the intercooler mounted and the cooling package will be complete.

20260115_214532.webp
20260115_215224.webp
20260115_220314.webp
20260117_120623.webp
Curious. This pneumatic setup - is that a “thing“ or is it something you’ve thought up as a solution and are pioneering it?

Either way, it’s pretty cool.
 
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Curious. This pneumatic setup - is that a “thing“ or is it something you’ve thought up as a solution and are pioneering it?

Either way, it’s pretty cool.
Nah not a thing. But it was my contingency from a long time ago if I was unable to get the tcase shifter to work woth the adapter. I solved that problem, but ran into another. Oh well. It shouldn't be terribly difficult to do. Simply removing the transfer case and transmission is going to be the biggest pain in the ass part of this (and then reinstalling)

I also will already have onboard air to control my air lockers so I dont need to add anything crazy.
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