Vehicle not starting - Corroded wiring connectors - LU2Z-14S411-NA | wpt-1638

[Yamahauler]

Hello Everyone,

2019 Ranger XLT

Starting about a week ago I started getting a blue screen for my back up camera. I thought no big deal, I need to clean the connections, and of course put it off (mistake #1, should have prioritized).

Yesterday, my car will not start at all, or more accurately, it cranks but dies immediately after starting, as if it is not getting enough fuel. I figured this might be related to the backup camera, and for some reason had my mind set that it was a fuse. There is a Ford dealership in my town so I had AAA tow it there.

Ford tech discovers that the bulkhead connector that runs along the frame was not clipped together properly, and that there is water in the connection (we had a very rainy week but this was still a big surprise!), and the connectors were corroded.

This was a shock as I have never even looked at that connector, so it either became unclipped somehow, or was never properly connected. The tech seemed to imply that I unclipped it or "someone was messing with your truck." lol. I did find a recall for loose tail lamp inline connectors, but I do not think it's relevant, unfortunately. (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCLRPT-19V839-2453.PDF)

They ID'd about a one foot section of wiring harness that needed replacing, part number LU2Z-14S411-NA a.ka. wpt-1638, as well as LU2Z-14S411-AAA, and say that the other connector will also have to be repinned.

The quote was $437.64 for parts and $903.35 for labor. Which seems exorbitant, to say the least.

I was wondering if anyone has experienced issues with this wiring connector before, or if it would be possible to simply clean the connectors and go about my day. The pics look pretty bad, but I have cleaned up some disgusting connectors on motorcycles and been fine.

Thanks everyone, and remember to check your wiring harness every so often!

Pics:

Sponsored

 

[Frenchy]

That is not a bulkhead connector. That is simply a harness connector that joins the Main Harness to a Chassis Harness. If I'm not mistaken that's the same connector that is part of one of the recalls for the tail lights

 

[Yamahauler]

Thank you. I called it a bulkhead connector b/c they referred to it as such on their quote.

 

[TJC]

Hello Everyone,

2019 Ranger XLT

Starting about a week ago I started getting a blue screen for my back up camera. I thought no big deal, I need to clean the connections, and of course put it off (mistake #1, should have prioritized).

Yesterday, my car will not start at all, or more accurately, it cranks but dies immediately after starting, as if it is not getting enough fuel. I figured this might be related to the backup camera, and for some reason had my mind set that it was a fuse. There is a Ford dealership in my town so I had AAA tow it there.

Ford tech discovers that the bulkhead connector that runs along the frame was not clipped together properly, and that there is water in the connection (we had a very rainy week but this was still a big surprise!), and the connectors were corroded.

This was a shock as I have never even looked at that connector, so it either became unclipped somehow, or was never properly connected. The tech seemed to imply that I unclipped it or "someone was messing with your truck." lol. I did find a recall for loose tail lamp inline connectors, but I do not think it's relevant, unfortunately. (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCLRPT-19V839-2453.PDF)

They ID'd about a one foot section of wiring harness that needed replacing, part number LU2Z-14S411-NA a.ka. wpt-1638, as well as LU2Z-14S411-AAA, and say that the other connector will also have to be repinned.

The quote was $437.64 for parts and $903.35 for labor. Which seems exorbitant, to say the least.

I was wondering if anyone has experienced issues with this wiring connector before, or if it would be possible to simply clean the connectors and go about my day. The pics look pretty bad, but I have cleaned up some disgusting connectors on motorcycles and been fine.

Thanks everyone, and remember to check your wiring harness every so often!

Pics:

Personally I'd purchase DeoxIT D5 and spray the connections. Cycle the plug a few times, then let it dry. Follow up with DeoxIT Gold D5, spray and cycle the plug, Spay again and let it dry. When Dry, plug it back in and check the results.

This works for me in electronics and in corroded wiring. It is my go to solution for situations like this. Once you validate all is good, tuck it up out the way and waterproof the connection. Should be good to go!

BTW, Both will run you about $45 (total cost) from Amazon. A little goes a long way.

 

[Yamahauler]

Personally I'd purchase DeoxIT D5 and spray the connections. Cycle the plug a few times, then let it dry. Follow up with DeoxIT Gold D5, spray and cycle the plug, Spay again and let it dry. When Dry, plug it back in and check the results.

This works for me in electronics and in corroded wiring. It is my go to solution for situations like this. Once you validate all is good, tuck it up out the way and waterproof the connection. Should be good to go!

BTW, Both will run you about $45 (total cost) from Amazon. A little goes a long way.

I do not have a lot of time since it's sitting on the dealer lot, and I go on vacation for a week saturday. But I was basically going to do the same with QD cleaner. Good tip on the deoxit though. THere is a carquest in town that carries a lot of specialty items, I'll see if they stock it.

 

[airline tech]

This is connector C408:
The connector is broken, this is not caused from not properly latched or someone messing with the truck.

Its (Off-Road) damage where something either hit the connector (On the bottom side) or the harness and it pulled off the support tab and it broke the connector housing.
This is not the first time that this connector has been damaged by (Off-Roading)
It's the designed location of the connector on the Frame, so for those who (off-road) regularly climbing rocks / uneven terrain etc it may be a good idea to find a way to fabricate a steel plate to cover the connectors at this location and also protect the harness better (going aft)

Pins: 25-30 are corroded with some of them pretty bad, the worst ones are most likely damaged beyond a simple clean and will never make good contact.
But even without damage this connector has been problematic for corrosion issues.


The Forward Connector: (Male) WPT-1632 - can possibly be saved and just replace the pins that are damaged.
The Rear Connector (Female) WPT-1638 - needs the connector housing replaced

So, for ease of replacement they can get the connector pigtails that have roughly about 18 inches of wire and the connector (including) the contacts (pre-installed)

You actually want to replace the wire as far away from the connector as you can and that is due to the fact that (wire) strands act as a wick and soak up moisture (into the harness)


So, for labor. You have 2ea (34-Cavity) connectors with 27 active cavities.

So, this brings a total of 54 (environmental) splices that has to be carefully done (1) at a time so you keep track of the (Pin-Out) order.
This is a time-consuming job that cannot be rushed, so if they replace both connectors @ 100% you are looking at roughly 4 hours of labor.
So yes $900 Labor is reasonable for what is involved if using ($200 hr shop rate)

Now it is an option and this is the path I would take as I would only want to (splice) repair the damaged contacts and 18 inches or whatever length comes with the pigtail and just simply de-pin and re-pin the good wires into the new connectors.
This would cut the labor time down quite a bit.

So, it boils down to the (Rear Connector) must be replaced and at minimum replace only the damaged contact pins and reuse the rest. the (Forward Connector) can be reused and just replace the damaged contact pins as long as the latching part of the connector is not broken, and the connector cavities are also good and intact.
Cleaning the pins will not be a solid repair in this case, too much damage and high likelihood that the corrosion has traveled up the wire harness.
So, if you are comfortable with the repair, you can easily do this and save the Labor Cost, but it is an acceptable amount that they are charging (If they do a 100%) replacement of both connectors and splice all wires.
You will only know the full extent of the damage when you start depinning the connectors, if corrosion is on the strands of the wire (where it is crimped) to the wire then it is advisable to replace the wire as far upstream or downstream as you can, basically pick a spot (midway) of the length of wire that comes with the new connector and (Cut & Inspect) the strands do they show evidence of corrosion? if yes move farther away until you find clean strands.


The damage pins (That I visually see) are for the following circuits:
Pin 25 - PCM Sig Rtn (VREF)- Fuel Low Pressure Sensor is on this return (This was your NO-Start)
Pin 26 - DC/DC Convertor - Fuse 23 - Feeding the Rear Camera
Pin 27 - Fuel Level Sensor
Pin 28 - Fuel Level Sensor (Return)
Pin 29 - Rear Cam (LIN) Circuit
Pin 30 - BLIS (Left)

 

[seasprite]

Thank you. I called it a bulkhead connector b/c they referred to it as such on their quote.

I typically hear those called bulk connectors because of crap ton of wires in them.
But Airline tech is right. Try to avoid cutting any wire that you can by de pinning the good ones. Less chance of future problems.

 

[Yamahauler]

This is connector C408:
The connector is broken, this is not caused from not properly latched or someone messing with the truck.

Its (Off-Road) damage where something either hit the connector (On the bottom side) or the harness and it pulled off the support tab and it broke the connector housing.
This is not the first time that this connector has been damaged by (Off-Roading)
It's the designed location of the connector on the Frame, so for those who (off-road) regularly climbing rocks / uneven terrain etc it may be a good idea to find a way to fabricate a steel plate to cover the connectors at this location and also protect the harness better (going aft)

Pins: 25-30 are corroded with some of them pretty bad, the worst ones are most likely damaged beyond a simple clean and will never make good contact.
But even without damage this connector has been problematic for corrosion issues.


The Forward Connector: (Male) WPT-1632 - can possibly be saved and just replace the pins that are damaged.
The Rear Connector (Female) WPT-1638 - needs the connector housing replaced

So, for ease of replacement they can get the connector pigtails that have roughly about 18 inches of wire and the connector (including) the contacts (pre-installed)

You actually want to replace the wire as far away from the connector as you can and that is due to the fact that (wire) strands act as a wick and soak up moisture (into the harness)


So, for labor. You have 2ea (34-Cavity) connectors with 27 active cavities.

So, this brings a total of 54 (environmental) splices that has to be carefully done (1) at a time so you keep track of the (Pin-Out) order.
This is a time-consuming job that cannot be rushed, so if they replace both connectors @ 100% you are looking at roughly 4 hours of labor.
So yes $900 Labor is reasonable for what is involved if using ($200 hr shop rate)

Now it is an option and this is the path I would take as I would only want to (splice) repair the damaged contacts and 18 inches or whatever length comes with the pigtail and just simply de-pin and re-pin the good wires into the new connectors.
This would cut the labor time down quite a bit.

So, it boils down to the (Rear Connector) must be replaced and at minimum replace only the damaged contact pins and reuse the rest. the (Forward Connector) can be reused and just replace the damaged contact pins as long as the latching part of the connector is not broken, and the connector cavities are also good and intact.
Cleaning the pins will not be a solid repair in this case, too much damage and high likelihood that the corrosion has traveled up the wire harness.
So, if you are comfortable with the repair, you can easily do this and save the Labor Cost, but it is an acceptable amount that they are charging (If they do a 100%) replacement of both connectors and splice all wires.
You will only know the full extent of the damage when you start depinning the connectors, if corrosion is on the strands of the wire (where it is crimped) to the wire then it is advisable to replace the wire as far upstream or downstream as you can, basically pick a spot (midway) of the length of wire that comes with the new connector and (Cut & Inspect) the strands do they show evidence of corrosion? if yes move farther away until you find clean strands.


The damage pins (That I visually see) are for the following circuits:
Pin 25 - PCM Sig Rtn (VREF)- Fuel Low Pressure Sensor is on this return (This was your NO-Start)
Pin 26 - DC/DC Convertor - Fuse 23 - Feeding the Rear Camera
Pin 27 - Fuel Level Sensor
Pin 28 - Fuel Level Sensor (Return)
Pin 29 - Rear Cam (LIN) Circuit
Pin 30 - BLIS (Left)

Thanks for the detailed reply!

I kind of doubt it's off road damage, since I am not into off roading (apart from on my dirt bike) and have not taken the truck offroad except for getting to trailheads and parking for races in years. But it's possible that it got caught on something or a rock bounced up and hit it in the pits or parking in a field, I guess. The ford techs did not ID the connector as broken, though, they said it was "not clipped together" properly. I believe they removed it from the clip into the frame.

Today, I brought up recall 19V-839, which I believe is the one that Frenchy alluded to. The service dept. agreed that this recall seemed applicable, but said that my VIN was not connected with the recall, although MY and production dates match. They do believe that this is the issue, though, and are raising it with Ford corporate.

If they refuse to help with the repair I think I will be following your advice

 

[TJC]

I do not have a lot of time since it's sitting on the dealer lot, and I go on vacation for a week saturday. But I was basically going to do the same with QD cleaner. Good tip on the deoxit though. THere is a carquest in town that carries a lot of specialty items, I'll see if they stock it.

Amazon can have it to you in a day or two. 30 minutes to do the job.

Of course it is your call on how you handle it.

Best of luck.

- T

 

[Yamahauler]

Update: My truck was made in the same factory as the recall, but three days after the recall period. Ford has denied recall coverage, but is working on some kind of financial compensation for a potential repair. Not sure what that would look like.

Ford has also suggested reaching out to the NHTSA to have the recall expanded, which I'll try but seems like a fool's errand.

Sponsored