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2019 Ford Fanger Lariat FX$ Turbo Issue / Question

Swartzzz

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Truck was infront of the house, and my wife decided to put it in the driveway. Starts it and gets a CEL. Fordpass says: An Electrical Fault has occurred with the Turbocharger wastegate position sensor circuit and its associated wiring. I scanned it with a scanner, as Ford Dealership is 6 weeks before I can get an appointment. Code is P2AB9. Wastegate Actuator is what the interwebs says. So, it looks like we need a wastegate actuator. Looks to be straight forward, BUT according to the DEALER, it is not serviced and and looks like often the dealer replaces the complete turbo. Anyone have any experience? Have a part number? I am mechanically inclined, and I may try this!

Looks like Taska has a turbo for $960.32. Do not really need anything "Upgraded" but may keep the original turbo and have it re-built to keep as a spare! If I did the turbo, may upgrade the downpipe as well!

Anyone have any thoughts? Facebook is no help, neither is Reddit. Please someone give me some info!
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Stevedbvik1

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Truck was infront of the house, and my wife decided to put it in the driveway. Starts it and gets a CEL. Fordpass says: An Electrical Fault has occurred with the Turbocharger wastegate position sensor circuit and its associated wiring. I scanned it with a scanner, as Ford Dealership is 6 weeks before I can get an appointment. Code is P2AB9. Wastegate Actuator is what the interwebs says. So, it looks like we need a wastegate actuator. Looks to be straight forward, BUT according to the DEALER, it is not serviced and and looks like often the dealer replaces the complete turbo. Anyone have any experience? Have a part number? I am mechanically inclined, and I may try this!

Looks like Taska has a turbo for $960.32. Do not really need anything "Upgraded" but may keep the original turbo and have it re-built to keep as a spare! If I did the turbo, may upgrade the downpipe as well!

Anyone have any thoughts? Facebook is no help, neither is Reddit. Please someone give me some info!
Turbo is made by Borg Warner and they do not offer the actuator as a service part. Maybe find a good used turbo on eBay or your local boneyard and use the actuator off of it. But it may not be the actuator that’s the issue. Possibly a wiring issue?? Maybe @airline tech can chime in ?
 

jflogerzi

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If you upgrade your downpipe you should get a tune.
 

Stevedbvik1

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Call the guys at Area Diesel up in Illinois. They're a BW dealer, can probably get you what you need.

https://www.areadieselservice.com/
When I retired from a Borg Warner master distributor a couple of years ago the Ranger turbo and its parts were OEM only. It’s usually 8-10 years before they release it to the aftermarket. And that’s if it has any production volume to it. They can try Area Diesel but I’m pretty sure it’s a dead end still.
 


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Swartzzz

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I believe the CEL went out this evening on my daughters drive to work..... It never lost boost, so I am sure that it is either electrical connections or the wastegate actuator. Still stinks, to be honest, that if the actuator is failing that the Turbo will need to be replaced.
 

Stevedbvik1

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I believe the CEL went out this evening on my daughters drive to work..... It never lost boost, so I am sure that it is either electrical connections or the wastegate actuator. Still stinks, to be honest, that if the actuator is failing that the Turbo will need to be replaced.
Quite a few good used turbos with actuators available on EBay. All in the $220-$275 range. Pretty cheap if you think it’s the actuator. A lot easier to replace than the whole turbo.
 

airline tech

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Before you pull the trigger on a Turbo or Wastegate Actuator.
I suspect that a simple clean and reseat of the connector (MAY) cure the issue

This is a VREF circuit - (control)

To Test:

Hook up scan tool and view the Wastegate Actuator PID (Percent)

Ign On (Engine Off) - KOEO

Push (Gas) pedal to the floor and hold
Within 3 Seconds the Actuator should move to full open 90-100%
Release the pedal (Actuator) should move to 0-10%

Repeat this a few times and pay attention to the PID display, ensure the indication is stable and does not fluctuate (jump)
Also, note if you slowly release the gas pedal - the actuator will follow (backing off) closing

What this is doing is forcing a full cycle test of the actuator.

I would do this test - Both Cold & Hot Engine

There are some wiring checks as well and internal resistance checks of the (motor) 1-90 Ohms are spec.

I suspect it was a glitch, now if you note - jumping, then either a VREF issue or the actuator position (internal) is at fault.

If you note hanging (binding) then either the actuator or linkage issue, inspect for security of the linkage - play

Hopefully all is good and a clean and reseat of the connector and test

If needed I can assist with the wiring checks, kind of lengthy for full check.
 
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Mighty Little Blue

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Before you pull the trigger on a Turbo or Wastegate Actuator.
I suspect that a simple clean and reseat of the connector (MAY) cure the issue

This is a VREF circuit - (control)

To Test:

Hook up scan tool and view the Wastegate Actuator PID (Percent)

Ign On (Engine Off) - KOEO

Push (Gas) pedal to the floor and hold
Within 3 Seconds the Actuator should move to full open 90-100%
Release the pedal (Actuator) should move to 0-10%

Repeat this a few times and pay attention to the PID display, ensure the indication is stable and does not fluctuate (jump)
Also, note if you slowly release the gas pedal - the actuator will follow (backing off) closing

What this is doing is forcing a full cycle test of the actuator.

I would do this test - Both Cold & Hot Engine

There are some wiring checks as well and internal resistance checks of the (motor) 1-90 Ohms are spec.

I suspect it was a glitch, now if you note - jumping, then either a VREF issue or the actuator position (internal) is at fault.

If you note hanging (binding) then either the actuator or linkage issue, inspect for security of the linkage - play

Hopefully all is good and a clean and reseat of the connector and test

If needed I can assist with the wiring checks, kind of lengthy for full check.
Airline Tech and Rangerbill
Always Above and Beyond
They have probably saved the forum members here millions.
I know I have learned a lot reading their replies.
Sincere Thanks to both of you!
 

Av8or1

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I also have a low mileage spare turbo I would sell for waaaay less than a new one. As it turns out, ranger turbos are not directly compatible with the mustang 2.3 ecoboost.

Pm me if you need it. But hopefully the other members solutions work for you.
 
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Swartzzz

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Before you pull the trigger on a Turbo or Wastegate Actuator.
I suspect that a simple clean and reseat of the connector (MAY) cure the issue

This is a VREF circuit - (control)

To Test:

Hook up scan tool and view the Wastegate Actuator PID (Percent)

Ign On (Engine Off) - KOEO

Push (Gas) pedal to the floor and hold
Within 3 Seconds the Actuator should move to full open 90-100%
Release the pedal (Actuator) should move to 0-10%

Repeat this a few times and pay attention to the PID display, ensure the indication is stable and does not fluctuate (jump)
Also, note if you slowly release the gas pedal - the actuator will follow (backing off) closing

What this is doing is forcing a full cycle test of the actuator.

I would do this test - Both Cold & Hot Engine

There are some wiring checks as well and internal resistance checks of the (motor) 1-90 Ohms are spec.

I suspect it was a glitch, now if you note - jumping, then either a VREF issue or the actuator position (internal) is at fault.

If you note hanging (binding) then either the actuator or linkage issue, inspect for security of the linkage - play

Hopefully all is good and a clean and reseat of the connector and test

If needed I can assist with the wiring checks, kind of lengthy for full check.

WOW.... Thank you very very much!!!

Greg

Will update!
 

Roscoe_t

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I just went through this myself -- 2021 model with 44k miles. I got a whole new turbo under warranty, repair was done Wednesday.
In mid-December I got codes p0299 and P2ab9 with wrench and check-engine icons on the dash. My local dealer couldn't schedule me in until mid-January -- at that point the service advisor told me I needed a new turbo. (I tried to get him to be more specific, as in exactly what was failing. He just shrugged and repeated, "new turbo.")
It took three weeks for the replacement to arrive. With the repair complete the truck seems to perform the same way it has always performed. I never experienced a reduced-power condition. Watching realtime indicated fuel economy, it may have improved slightly, but that's a strictly unscientific observation.
The whole episode has me wondering whether the service department was looking for some warranty work to fill out their calendar. But I'll take the new turbo and hope that one doesn't go south in 44k miles.
 

Stevedbvik1

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I just went through this myself -- 2021 model with 44k miles. I got a whole new turbo under warranty, repair was done Wednesday.
In mid-December I got codes p0299 and P2ab9 with wrench and check-engine icons on the dash. My local dealer couldn't schedule me in until mid-January -- at that point the service advisor told me I needed a new turbo. (I tried to get him to be more specific, as in exactly what was failing. He just shrugged and repeated, "new turbo.")
It took three weeks for the replacement to arrive. With the repair complete the truck seems to perform the same way it has always performed. I never experienced a reduced-power condition. Watching realtime indicated fuel economy, it may have improved slightly, but that's a strictly unscientific observation.
The whole episode has me wondering whether the service department was looking for some warranty work to fill out their calendar. But I'll take the new turbo and hope that one doesn't go south in 44k miles.
The turbo itself was probably fine. Most likely an actuator issue or linkage sticking? The fact that you had no performance problems really makes you wonder if they actually fixed anything.
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