It has happened to me! (Dreaded Fan Sensor - Crumbling Hose!)

[Dr. Zaius]

Well, Lookie what I found today.

31k miles.

Completely broken on one end.

The end had deteriorated into a black goo.

Many thanks to @TJC . I fortunately had the silicone replacement hose handy.

Disaster averted it appears.

And I'd just driven it 200 miles to the airport and back.

Very glad it didn't leave me stranded.

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[RangerBill]

Well, Lookie what I found today.

31k miles.

Completely broken on one end.

The end had deteriorated into a black goo.

Many thanks to @TJC . I fortunately had the silicone replacement hose handy.

Disaster averted it appears.

And I'd just driven it 200 miles to the airport and back.

Very glad it didn't leave me stranded.

Could you provide a link where you purchased the silicon hose with a 90 degree bend? Thanks

 

[Dr. Zaius]

Could you provide a link where you purchased the silicon hose with a 90 degree bend? Thanks

@TJC posted the Amazon link to it in post #195 on the page previous to this one.

HERE is the link to it.

Disregard the Amazon picture. The hose is 10" long on each side of the 90 degree elbow.

 

[RangerBill]

@TJC posted the Amazon link to it in post #195 on the page previous to this one.

HERE is the link to it.

Disregard the Amazon picture. The hose is 10" long on each side of the 90 degree elbow.

Thanks

 

[TJC]

Measure twice, cut once! And it you intend to stiffen the middle with 1/4" soft copper tubing (I did), you can install the piece straight, then shape the hose to the angle of the original hose.

I would also correct the flange on the engine side stud. It is too thin and sharp. I ground it off, then drilled and tapped the stud so I could add a button top screw. This will give you a nice round ring instead of the original sharp flange.

If fact, I'd grind the flange off even if I wasn't adding the screw. The interior of this silicone hose is soft with a good grip. I would simply add a hose clamp and be done with it.

 

[Racket]

Double post for visibility. This is a key issue for anyone who has a 5G Ranger. I was under the hood today and found the hose broken:

I went with some fuel injection hose, reused the factory standoff for the wiring and replaced the hose/clamps:

EVERY 5G OWNER NEEDS TO PREPARE FOR THIS INEVITABILITY.

 

[TJC]

Correct the issue before the failure occurs. I did.

 

[got3fords]

Double post for visibility. This is a key issue for anyone who has a 5G Ranger. I was under the hood today and found the hose broken:

I went with some fuel injection hose, reused the factory standoff for the wiring and replaced the hose/clamps:

EVERY 5G OWNER NEEDS TO PREPARE FOR THIS INEVITABLY.

Was the new hose pre-curved?

 

[Racket]

This should be a sticky. I know transmission/fuel in oil or ac blend door posts dominate but this could lead to a catastrophic failure out of the blue. It's a cheap and easy fix to Ford's engineering shortcomings.

 

[Racket]

Was the new hose pre-curved?

No.

 

[Wickham95]

Made an account just to confirm this issue and provide more visibility as this is an issue I think almost all Ranger owners will run into eventually.

I had similar symptoms to everyone else. Low oil pressure light, reduced powertrain, A/C stopped working. The techs at my local Ford dealership spent 3 days troubleshooting only to find that the F12 fuse was blown. They still didn't know why, but sent me home with the truck to see if the issue replicated. Within 24 hours the fuse was blown again.

After searching this forum I found out others had the same issue and sure enough, the tubing on my fan clutch had disintegrated. The wiring was laying directly on the hub, spin friction had done its thing, and the copper was exposed. It was grounding out every time it touched the metal.

A little electrical tape, some zip ties, a fresh fuse, and I am back in business. So far so good. This seriously flawed design needs to be at the forefront of every Ranger owner's mind, right up there with checking oil and brake pads. The Ford Service center will want to replace the oil pressure switch, the pump, and who knows what else while diagnosing this issue. If they ever find the problem with the fan clutch, I am sure they would want to replace that entire system when this is an easy and cheap fix at home.

 

[airline tech]

Made an account just to confirm this issue and provide more visibility as this is an issue I think almost all Ranger owners will run into eventually.

I had similar symptoms to everyone else. Low oil pressure light, reduced powertrain, A/C stopped working. The techs at my local Ford dealership spent 3 days troubleshooting only to find that the F12 fuse was blown. They still didn't know why, but sent me home with the truck to see if the issue replicated. Within 24 hours the fuse was blown again.

After searching this forum I found out others had the same issue and sure enough, the tubing on my fan clutch had disintegrated. The wiring was laying directly on the hub, spin friction had done its thing, and the copper was exposed. It was grounding out every time it touched the metal.

A little electrical tape, some zip ties, a fresh fuse, and I am back in business. So far so good. This seriously flawed design needs to be at the forefront of every Ranger owner's mind, right up there with checking oil and brake pads. The Ford Service center will want to replace the oil pressure switch, the pump, and who knows what else while diagnosing this issue. If they ever find the problem with the fan clutch, I am sure they would want to replace that entire system when this is an easy and cheap fix at home.

This is an interim repair, as depending on the severity of the chaffed wire, covering it with electrical tape alone will allow (moisture wicking) into the wire (thus corrosion) over time.
A perm repair would be to cut the damaged spot and install a environmental splice and heat shrink over the splice.

 

[underwhelmed]

Well, when I get my Ranger back from the dealer this is the first issue I will look for…

 

[Wickham95]

This is an interim repair, as depending on the severity of the chaffed wire, covering it with electrical tape alone will allow (moisture wicking) into the wire (thus corrosion) over time.
A perm repair would be to cut the damaged spot and install a environmental splice and heat shrink over the splice.

Good call out. My Macgyver method only buys time.

 

[Chris M]

Well, when I get my Ranger back from the dealer this is the first issue I will look for…

I went out and looked at mine this morning. All seems well so far.
But I am now a bit paranoid about it.

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