RESOLVED - Anyone ever seen this?

[RedlandRanger]

any signs of a mouse or rat?
we have a soy based wire insulation they love!
I live out in the middle of no where its a common issue?
one got my rear seat belt sensor but its in an easy place to fix

I've been thinking of that.... The only thing is some evidence of chewing on the battery insulator blanket but it isn't bad. Hoping it doesn't come to that but 'm starting to think it is a bigger possibility - if so, it is beyond my skills I think. I will need to get a pro involved.

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[RedlandRanger]

Interesting. Is the truck battery going dead?

I just replaced the battery a few weeks ago.

 

[subquark]

I was hoping you'd chime in on this one.....

I'm not sure how I can test for power ACROSS the fuse (those fuses don't have the little metal spot you can touch a test light/multimeter too - but I did confirm that there is power to one of the posts with the fuse out - so that circuit is definitely getting power.

Nothing other than the USB adapter was plugged into the port - the last time we went hiking it worked - last weekend it didn't - in the interim nothing else was plugged in - and the driver side port had NOTHING plugged into it at all until last weekend when I plugged in the adapter.

I will run FORScan to see if I get any codes and report back.

Have you tried a Master Reset?

I spilled a tiny amount of water over my non-touch screen and radio buttons.

Bluetooth phone and radio no longer worked (but the Ford 911 connect still displayed). Even the next day, no radio, no settings, ...

I couldn't do a Master Reset since the screen would only display the time, so I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and all was right with the Ranger.

My fuses were fine too and I suspected (hoped) it was something along the lines of what Airline Tech discussed.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I hope you get this resolved Rob..

 

[Racket]

I just replaced the battery a few weeks ago.

I reset the battery management system in Forscan after replacing mine. Don't know if it's necessary or not.

 

[RedlandRanger]

I reset the battery management system in Forscan after replacing mine. Don't know if it's necessary or not.

I did that as well. From what I understand it basically resets any data associated with the BMS and also the install date of the battery.

 

[Jason B]

For only $2k, you can protect you vehicle from mice!

 

[RedlandRanger]

Have you tried a Master Reset?

I spilled a tiny amount of water over my non-touch screen and radio buttons.

Bluetooth phone and radio no longer worked (but the Ford 911 connect still displayed). Even the next day, no radio, no settings, ...

I couldn't do a Master Reset since the screen would only display the time, so I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and all was right with the Ranger.

My fuses were fine too and I suspected (hoped) it was something along the lines of what Airline Tech discussed.

I just tried a master reset (which was kind of a pain since I needed to re-set up everything), but it didn't change anything at all.

I also disconnected the battery for about 10 mins - no change.

A new adapter came today - no change. I've also tested this new adapter and cable in 2 vehicles and it works in both.

I may try and get some new fuses just in case - before I start digging in deeper.

If I replace the fuses and still no change I will start digging deeper (start tearing into the dash to check power at the outlets).

@airline tech - This seems to have possibly happened around the time I replaced the battery - I can't imagine what I would have done with that to have caused this, but would you have any thoughts on that? I did take a cursory look in the engine bay for any evidence of chewed wiring and didn't see any.

 

[RedlandRanger]

When you did the Test / Reset
Was the Park Brake Set & Headlamp Switch (Out of Auto), as I am thinking it's looking for a normal config - during the test. May or May Not be the reason for those codes.
I do know that the BCM cycles lights during the test, and one noted setting it will always max back to brightness is the (Illumination Dimming Level), so you have to readjust to your preference.

I re-did the BCM self test with the parking brake off and the headlight switch off. It completed with no errors.

As far as the Adapter - have you tried another adapter in the ports, you have to remember the Ranger is finicky on power distribution.

I got a new adapter today and tried it. No change - I also tried this same adapter in another car and it worked fine.

G222 - is a shared ground point - note the items that share that ground and verify normal ops.
just in case it is a ground issue.

You may be experiencing a - Slow Moving Window

I checked tonight and the drivers window moves normally. I had to re-set the memory after disconnecting the battery but it moves up and down the same as the other windows, so I don't think it is a ground issue.

Once I get the new fuses and replace them, if nothing changes I will start tearing in to check power at those two points. I'm hesitant to tear off trim - I'm always worried I will break something. If anyone has any hints/tips on how to remove the proper trim pieces to get at those power ports I would appreciate it. I do have trim tools.

Edit: I meant to add this before - I do have one existing DTC whcih seems really odd to me, but now I'm wondering if it can be related - B11F0 - Air Intake Damper Position Sensor - Circuit Short to Battery or Open - I looked up at that a while back and saw no evidence of wiring damage and I tried to re-seat that connection, but still get the code. This is part of the FCM module however, not the BCM.

 

[Cabose-1]

For only $2k, you can protect you vehicle from mice!

2k?? Sign me up

 

[Grandaccess]

I've been thinking of that.... The only thing is some evidence of chewing on the battery insulator blanket but it isn't bad. Hoping it doesn't come to that but 'm starting to think it is a bigger possibility - if so, it is beyond my skills I think. I will need to get a pro involved.

I live out in the middle of nowhere so its a daily battle, and have used everything, the 5 gal bucket with the spinning bottle that drop them into water works, this year I have also used the Tomcat green blocks and they do work too they will pick them up and take them back to the nest, and something new I have just tried mixing cornbread mix and baking soda equal amounts and that builds up gas they cant expel fast enough and they die within a foot or two of the dish!
after watching a video of a farmer and some other city folk doing that I used A.I to see if it was a myth LOL
"can be considered inhumane" inhumane? LOL so is the damage caused by them, I would rather have crying dead rats all over than one chewed wire, I think A.I leans left?
I have a Huge Blue and Gold Macaw and a rat got into his cage because of seed and food in there, LOL little Rat Bastard wont do that again, 5 gal bucket 5, Tomcat lots, and cornbread Tons, Scooby 3, Cisco 1 I am keeping track hahaha

 

[RedlandRanger]

So..... I feel like kind of an idiot, but this is fixed now. The issue was simply a blown fuse. (two of them, actually - one for each port)

My theory on what happened was something shorted in the adapter in the right socket, which blew that fuse - when I swapped the adapter to the left port, it worked initially and at some point it shorted again which blew THAT fuse.

Using my fuse tester (which I had forgotten I had) showed both fuses were bad. I didn't have any of those type of fuse so I bought some, replaced both #10 and #16 and both ports are working again - with a new adapter in place - the old one is going in the garbage!

Thank you to everyone, especially @airline tech for all the suggestions. I'm glad it turned out to be a really easy fix.

 

[airline tech]

Awesome, I thought you checked the fuses (removed) with a meter, but hey its fixed

 

[RedlandRanger]

Awesome, I thought you checked the fuses (removed) with a meter, but hey its fixed

I thought I had but I obviously did it wrong....

I'm just glad it was something simple and the cause makes sense.

 

[TJC]

Those ports have amperage/wattage ratings. Just because a plug fits doesn't mean it is within the electrical specs of the port. Phones and other devices have been steadily increasing the CPU capabilities along with their power requirements.

It's best to read Device power requirements carefully before simply inserting the device into a USB or 12V electrical port.

I've seen this current overdraw situation occur with USB ports on desktop and laptop computers.

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