brakes shuddering at higher speeds- wheels?

[silverflash]

so i have a 21 fx4. stock besides the 265/75r16 wildpeaks on 16" bronco (22 bronco) steel wheels. these steel wheels were silver when i got them and they fit fine on the hub when i tested them with no tires. i had the wheels powder coated black and the powder coater covered everything, including the mating surfaces and lug holes and inside of the hub bore hole.

i've developed a shimmy at higher speeds when braking recently-this weekend. seems to be coming from rear as i feel it in the seat and not the steering wheel. i though maybe the wheels were slightly off kilter with the extra thickness of the powder coating maybe being unlevel at the mating surfaces on the back of the wheels. it was a chore to remove the wheels right after i had the new tires put on them- i always undo the lugs and retorque after tire work and i noticed the tires wouldn't move at all with all lugs off. I had to kick them off esp the rear tires, to break them free.

fast forward to last night, i decided to remove the wheels and see about sanding the lug nut hole back sides as well as the mating surface of the hub and the bore. they came off easier this time after over 1 year of being installed. I still had the kick the rears. The fronts were snug too.

I think the main issue was coating on the bore lip causing the wheel not to want to go all the way onto the hub flatly.

I used my wire brush drill bit and was able to get the coating off the rear of the lug holes quite easily. I also hand sanded with 80 grit paper inside the bore hole. This seems to have made the wheels go on alot easier and this time when setting them on the hub, they felt right.

So any thoughts on all this? Did i find my brake vibe culprit? Will it magically fix itself now? The front discs felt smooth and even. The rears, well, i forgot to check them.........

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[Rp930]

Probably junk rear rotors like a lot of us have experienced.

 

[silverflash]

Probably junk rear rotors like a lot of us have experienced.

truck has a little over 20k miles on it.......

 

[Big Blue]

You may have solved your problem or you may still have it. If the wheels were not mating correctly they may have caused the drums mating surface to get distorted when the wheels were torqued. This can happen even with clean wheels if the proper torque sequence is not followed. Once distorted the drum will not be aligned with axle hub and will feel like a warped rotor. Only choice is new rotors.

This is a good lesson for those having wheels power coated. Make sure the powder coater masks the hub bore and face along with the stud bores and tapered lug seat.

 

[silverflash]

You may have solved your problem or you may still have it. If the wheels were not mating correctly they may have caused the drums mating surface to get distorted when the wheels were torqued. This can happen even with clean wheels if the proper torque sequence is not followed. Once distorted the drum will not be aligned with axle hub and will feel like a warped rotor. Only choice is new rotors.

This is a good lesson for those having wheels power coated. Make sure the powder coater masks the hub bore and face along with the stud bores and tapered lug seat.

hindsight is 20/20. i would have hoped my powder coater, who did wheels before, would have known not to powder coat everything. I didn't know until i realized how difficult the wheels were to get off the hubs.

 

[Rp930]

truck has a little over 20k miles on it.......

Right at 25k miles. I am not an aggressive driver. Fronts were fine rear pads looked fine, reused them.

I would add it’s a cheap fix to replace them. Since the originals were so bad I replaced them with Raybestos HD from Rock Auto. It’s a little bit of a chore to do it though. I’m 70. If I can do it you can do it.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Right at 25k miles. I am not an aggressive driver. Fronts were fine rear pads looked fine, reused them.

I would add it’s a cheap fix to replace them. Since the originals were so bad I replaced them with Raybestos HD from Rock Auto. It’s a little bit of a chore to do it though. I’m 70. If I can do it you can do it.

Are those marks cracks? Or something else? I'm having similar symptoms and pretty sure it is the rear brakes. I need to pull the rear wheels and look at the rotors.

 

[shovelhd]

hindsight is 20/20. i would have hoped my powder coater, who did wheels before, would have known not to powder coat everything. I didn't know until i realized how difficult the wheels were to get off the hubs.

Me too. I had the same issue with my powder coater, had the same symptoms, and used the same remedy.

 

[Rp930]

Are those marks cracks? Or something else? I'm having similar symptoms and pretty sure it is the rear brakes. I need to pull the rear wheels and look at the rotors.

Yes cracks. Terrible metal fatigue. The marks are where the supports are between the venting. Cheap, cheap, cheap.

 

[Retirednavy2010]

truck has a little over 20k miles on it.......

Look at all the transmissions that have gone bad at 20k. For what ever reason the rear pads wear quicker and the rotors warp easier(almost like the brake bias is incorrect)

 

[Big Blue]

Look at all the transmissions that have gone bad at 20k. For what ever reason the rear pads wear quicker and the rotors warp easier(almost like the brake bias is incorrect)

OK, let the transmission bashing begin. Might as well, every other thread goes there.

As long as we are there, exactly how many have gone bad at 20K, out of all the 10R80s that have been built? Does anybody here actually know?

 

[Rp930]

Look at all the transmissions that have gone bad at 20k. For what ever reason the rear pads wear quicker and the rotors warp easier(almost like the brake bias is incorrect)

I agree except the rear pads were well over 50%

 

[Retirednavy2010]

OK, let the transmission bashing begin. Might as well, every other thread goes there.

As long as we are there, exactly how many have gone bad at 20K, out of all the 10R80s that have been built? Does anybody here actually know?

Well considering there are several class action law suits already and the NTSB is involved I'd say this is an issue. https://lemoncarlawyer.com/ford-transmission-troubles-persist-2023-litigation-update/ the last article I read said that a significant number of 10R80 transmissions had failures due to poor construction and using inferior metals inside the transmission. I bought my 2019 Ranger in Jan 2024 with 29,000 miles and by 30,500 the transmission had to be rebuilt (Took 2 weeks to get it in because the transmission tech had several transmissions in front of mine to rebuild) 4 mo the later it is starting to clunk going into 8th gear again. The dealer said to wait as long as possible to rebuild it (I have a 2 year warranty on their rebuild) so I'll wait till it pukes. So you can understand why I am negative about this transmission issue.

 

[DasBoot]

so i have a 21 fx4. stock besides the 265/75r16 wildpeaks on 16" bronco (22 bronco) steel wheels. these steel wheels were silver when i got them and they fit fine on the hub when i tested them with no tires. i had the wheels powder coated black and the powder coater covered everything, including the mating surfaces and lug holes and inside of the hub bore hole.

i've developed a shimmy at higher speeds when braking recently-this weekend. seems to be coming from rear as i feel it in the seat and not the steering wheel. i though maybe the wheels were slightly off kilter with the extra thickness of the powder coating maybe being unlevel at the mating surfaces on the back of the wheels. it was a chore to remove the wheels right after i had the new tires put on them- i always undo the lugs and retorque after tire work and i noticed the tires wouldn't move at all with all lugs off. I had to kick them off esp the rear tires, to break them free.

fast forward to last night, i decided to remove the wheels and see about sanding the lug nut hole back sides as well as the mating surface of the hub and the bore. they came off easier this time after over 1 year of being installed. I still had the kick the rears. The fronts were snug too.

I think the main issue was coating on the bore lip causing the wheel not to want to go all the way onto the hub flatly.

I used my wire brush drill bit and was able to get the coating off the rear of the lug holes quite easily. I also hand sanded with 80 grit paper inside the bore hole. This seems to have made the wheels go on alot easier and this time when setting them on the hub, they felt right.

So any thoughts on all this? Did i find my brake vibe culprit? Will it magically fix itself now? The front discs felt smooth and even. The rears, well, i forgot to check them.........

Warped rotors

 

[underwhelmed]

Read up on slip joint issue if it is rear shuddering.

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