Is our hitch/sway bars risky?

[Diver4242]

We're going to pick up a used travel trailer Thursday (2021 Grand Design, 5,780lbs dry) and the dealer said our sway bar/hitch is old. They want to sell us a new Equal-i-zer 4-point sway control hitch/bar system for $995 installed. We want to be safe. This is what we have, is it sufficient or risky? Came with our old 2018 trailer when we bought it, so no idea of history.

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[Grumpaw]

First, all the components are old and very rusty.....basically means they were not taken care of properly, left out in weather for long periods and not maintained....
Second, the hitch head....part with the ball, is on a short shank, and will most likely not have enough "drop" for your trailer....Rangers have a very high rear end, and hitch head must usually be dropped quite a bit.
The long shank....piece with all the holes, would likely provide enough drop, but I'm unable to see from your pic's if the hitch head on the short shank is compatible with the longer shank.
The two bars are OK as far as their weight rating, but again, not maintained.
You might be able to use the hitch to get home, but, if mine, would look into getting a new hitch set up, and get it properly set up.
A good, brand name complete hitch will, depending on type and brand, will start around $600 and go up. As an example, I use a Blue Ox Sway Pro, which with proper weight bars, will run around $750-$800.
The Equalizer Hitch can be had for around $825-$850 depending on weight and shank needed.
The $995 offered to you is a bit high, but not too bad if the dealer is going to install and set it up PROPERLY....its all nut and bolt stuff, but takes some knowledge to set it up properly.

 

[Diver4242]

Here's the full pick of the longer shank. thank you!

 

[Grumpaw]

The head will probably fit on the longer shank, and will most likely need to be mounted as low as possible.
If you go that route, please use new grade 5 nuts/bolts/washers. A few bucks, but needed as the old ones are most likely shot....their rusted and should not be reused/trusted.
Take old hardware to Lowes/Home Depot and match it up size wise....nothing less than grade 5.

 

[Diver4242]

You talked me into it. Going with the new unit, they dropped install price to $864.

 

[Grumpaw]

You talked me into it. Going with the new unit, they dropped install price to $864.

If they set it up, properly, then that's a pretty good price. A good tech can set up one in under an hour, and that's taking his time. Considering most rv dealers charge around $150-$175 per hour for labor, that $864 is a good price.
Save the long shank....one with the 11 holes. It's a quality part, the shank insert is solid steel instead of a "tube" found on cheaper ones, and it has a proper welded gusset. The surface rust on it won't hurt that piece....bit of sandpaper and some quality paint and it will look new. New ones go for over a $100 bucks.

 

[Diver4242]

If they set it up, properly, then that's a pretty good price. A good tech can set up one in under an hour, and that's taking his time. Considering most rv dealers charge around $150-$175 per hour for labor, that $864 is a good price.

Well, I had to pay $50 to sign up for the Rt66 club to get the discount, but whatever. I'll try to use the meager benefit throughout the year as a bonus.

 

[ctechbob]

Just make sure you verify the setup. Dealer mechanics are usually not known for setting them up properly. With the E2 it is as simple as parking the truck/trailer somewhere level and taking a few measurements.

I would also make sure you are getting the extended shank.

 

[Dgc333]

The head will probably fit on the longer shank, and will most likely need to be mounted as low as possible.
If you go that route, please use new grade 5 nuts/bolts/washers. A few bucks, but needed as the old ones are most likely shot....their rusted and should not be reused/trusted.
Take old hardware to Lowes/Home Depot and match it up size wise....nothing less than grade 5.

I wouldn't use Grade 5 hardware. It will only cost you a few bucks to get Grade 8 hardware.

All I see is some surface rust. If it were me I would clean the hutch up and give it a coat of paint.

 

[Grumpaw]

I wouldn't use Grade 5 hardware. It will only cost you a few bucks to get Grade 8 hardware.

All I see is some surface rust. If it were me I would clean the hutch up and give it a coat of paint.

Dave, are you aware that the hardware that comes with almost all hitch assemblies is grade 5 ?
In some applications, grade 8 is just not necessary for what's needed/required.
Also, the majority of hardware holding your Ranger together are grade 5 or the metric equivalent 8.8. This includes the hardware holding bumpers, suspension, body to frame hardware.
As far as the hitch.....
The chains need to be replaced, very rusty where each link meets the next, wouldn't trust it.
The short shank is a light duty piece with no gusset, maybe OK for a 3-400 lb tongue weight but not for heave applications.
The head assembly would probably slip/fit on the long shank, which is a quality part, but head is still "meh". Would not trust the head for heavy loading.
Bars themselves may be OK, but then you would have to match up a new head with old bars...
Better off getting a new set up.....as OP said, the old hitch came with the used trailer he had, and no history/age/use......no history=no good.

 

[brroberts]

I just saw this thread. Steve is spot on. I have an Equalizer and it works very well if set up properly. It is heavy.

 

[Okinawa Joe]

First, all the components are old and very rusty.....basically means they were not taken care of properly, left out in weather for long periods and not maintained....
Second, the hitch head....part with the ball, is on a short shank, and will most likely not have enough "drop" for your trailer....Rangers have a very high rear end, and hitch head must usually be dropped quite a bit.
The long shank....piece with all the holes, would likely provide enough drop, but I'm unable to see from your pic's if the hitch head on the short shank is compatible with the longer shank.
The two bars are OK as far as their weight rating, but again, not maintained.
You might be able to use the hitch to get home, but, if mine, would look into getting a new hitch set up, and get it properly set up.
A good, brand name complete hitch will, depending on type and brand, will start around $600 and go up. As an example, I use a Blue Ox Sway Pro, which with proper weight bars, will run around $750-$800.
The Equalizer Hitch can be had for around $825-$850 depending on weight and shank needed.
The $995 offered to you is a bit high, but not too bad if the dealer is going to install and set it up PROPERLY....its all nut and bolt stuff, but takes some knowledge to set it up properly.

You aren't kidding! I use the drop hitch from my old '04 F-250, and indeed my 22 Ranger is taller in the back.

 

[subquark]

You talked me into it. Going with the new unit, they dropped install price to $864.

@Grumpaw's insight and advice are worth more than the cost of the most expensive setup. He knows what he's talking about and genuinely cares for the well-being of others.

I have learned so much and am a better tower thanks to him. I used to tow a lot in the old days when regular folks like me really didn't know much about hitch weight (and tongue weight? only a problem if the trailer jack buckled). I was always prudent and considered myself safe. But in my later years, and with much newer vehicles, there are a lot of nuances to towing safely and towing well.

In other words, I think he's pretty awesome. =)

don't be this guy!

 

[Grumpaw]

Thanks for all the from you guys, but it just comes down to common sense and safety.
Why risk your/your family's safety, and other drivers well being by using something that is an "unknown" ?
Your towing a 5000-7500 lb trailer and the last thing you want to worry about is it running wild should an old/questionable part fail.
The hardware on these hitches are put under a huge amount of strain, and they do eventually ware....they do not last forever.
As far as which hitch assembly....that's up to the individual, but don't skimp. Don't buy a cheapie...get a reputable product from a quality manufacturer, not some off-brand.
When we owned a motor home, and towed a car behind, it was a regular practice to replace the tow bar set up every 5-7 years, as per the manufacturers recommendation as the parts were always under movement/sliding/friction and needed to be rebuilt/replaced.
Tow hitch assemblies are not quite the same, and if you take care of the parts, should last many many years......the hitch the OP pictures simply shows neglect, ware, and, just my opinion, should be replaced. Only salvageable item is the long solid steel shank.
Me....I always err on the side of caution/safety. Would you put a set of cheap tires or brake pads on your truck, or use a set of worn/patched tires....of course not. We all think nothing of spending $1000 or more on a set of tires or $$$ for the best brake pads, lubes, belts, ect, and good hitch equipment is also something you don't want to cheap out on.

 

[Dgc333]

Dave, are you aware that the hardware that comes with almost all hitch assemblies is grade 5 ?
In some applications, grade 8 is just not necessary for what's needed/required.
Also, the majority of hardware holding your Ranger together are grade 5 or the metric equivalent 8.8. This includes the hardware holding bumpers, suspension, body to frame hardware.
As far as the hitch.....
The chains need to be replaced, very rusty where each link meets the next, wouldn't trust it.
The short shank is a light duty piece with no gusset, maybe OK for a 3-400 lb tongue weight but not for heave applications.
The head assembly would probably slip/fit on the long shank, which is a quality part, but head is still "meh". Would not trust the head for heavy loading.
Bars themselves may be OK, but then you would have to match up a new head with old bars...
Better off getting a new set up.....as OP said, the old hitch came with the used trailer he had, and no history/age/use......no history=no good.

Well my Reese setup uses grade 8 fasteners and they appear to be larger in diameter than the ones on the hitch in the picture. I also have what appears to be the same short shank, it is forged and is rated for 12,000lbs. It does not have enough drop for my trailer but it is certainly more than strong enough for any trailer that could be towed by the Ranger.

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