What did you do to your Ranger today?

[Old NaCl]

Oil change and tire rotation. Had to break out the old KD filter wrench.
Found out the ranger had zero zerks.
6.5 qts 5w30 Pennzoil and a M1-209A filter.
8600 on this one with 11% life left.

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[subquark]

Well, they're not well know for precise parts and there's a reason for their name...... Rough Country.?

Also, thank you for not showing the instal pics of you while in your Speedo! I need one day of rest so my eyes can heal. ??

I did a customer service request and also posted a review on their site about the issues I mentioned above. That was Monday and so far crickets. No nothing.

And the "powder coating"? LOL, already got some surface rust.

I'll repaint them myself and need to grind out that one side a bit more, but for what they are, you do get what you pay for.

Too bad they just go silent. Unless I hear from them (ever), I'll never buy from them again. =(

light surface rust (after a rough week of being parked in the driveway)

still can't get over this blob of a bead - maybe it's to hook a rope?

 

[Fordup]

I did a customer service request and also posted a review on their site about the issues I mentioned above. That was Monday and so far crickets. No nothing.

And the "powder coating"? LOL, already got some surface rust.

I'll repaint them myself and need to grind out that one side a bit more, but for what they are, you do get what you pay for.

Too bad they just go silent. Unless I hear from them (ever), I'll never buy from them again. =(

light surface rust (after a rough week of being parked in the driveway)

still can't get over this blob of a bead - maybe it's to hook a rope?

Seems to be typical quality from American companies these days. Can't believe they have zero quality and no support for getting issues like this fixed. I bet they didn't properly clean and prime before the top coat of powder. I would yank them off and send them back. Totally unacceptable for what they charge.

 

[JohnnyO]

Pre-season football starts tonight so I took off the NASCAR license frame and put on the Steelers frame.

Ranger is still on vacation. Wife had the big fat splint removed from her foot and leg and replaced with a big fat cast and not able to safely drive yet so I'm still rolling in her minivan dropping her off and picking her up from work. No big deal since I go past her work on the way to mine anyway. Just a matter that I get to work a half earlier than I need to be.

Saving a bunch on gas though.

 

[RedDakooter05]

I did a customer service request and also posted a review on their site about the issues I mentioned above. That was Monday and so far crickets. No nothing.

And the "powder coating"? LOL, already got some surface rust.

I'll repaint them myself and need to grind out that one side a bit more, but for what they are, you do get what you pay for.

Too bad they just go silent. Unless I hear from them (ever), I'll never buy from them again. =(

light surface rust (after a rough week of being parked in the driveway)

still can't get over this blob of a bead - maybe it's to hook a rope?

I'd grind that blob down, shoot some rust reformer then add 3 coats of Herculiner.
(Herculiner takes a few days to cure heads up)


As mentioned, American companies are a joke these days. My $200 engine cover from jrc offroad came full of scuffs and chipped off powder coat.

 

[JohnnyO]

I did a customer service request and also posted a review on their site about the issues I mentioned above. That was Monday and so far crickets. No nothing.

And the "powder coating"? LOL, already got some surface rust.

I'll repaint them myself and need to grind out that one side a bit more, but for what they are, you do get what you pay for.

Too bad they just go silent. Unless I hear from them (ever), I'll never buy from them again. =(

light surface rust (after a rough week of being parked in the driveway)

still can't get over this blob of a bead - maybe it's to hook a rope?

One reason why I don't get aftermarket bumpers. Here in the Salt Belt every truck and Jeep I've seen with one is shot full of rust within three years.

 

[Wytchdctr]

From

To

Race mode!

From

To

 

[Crow_of_judgement]

Got my exhaust done finally. I didn't notice until I got home that they put a 2 1/2 inch pipe on instead of 3" and then refuse to fix it.

 

[Dahveed]

I installed my Wildtrak/global leaf springs today. All I can say is, WHY DIDN'T THE TRUCK COME THIS WAY?!

It's a night and day difference.

 

[RedDakooter05]

I installed my Wildtrak/global leaf springs today. All I can say is, WHY DIDN'T THE TRUCK COME THIS WAY?!

It's a night and day difference.

Did you need any additional hardware? Any rear lift?

These seem to be a cheaper alternative than the icons which never seem to be in stock when I have the means to blow money...

 

[Dahveed]

Did you need any additional hardware? Any rear lift?

These seem to be a cheaper alternative than the icons which never seem to be in stock when I have the means to blow money...

Only thing extra I needed was longer U-bolts. I opted for the Rough Country 7604 set. They're $40 for a set of 4, whereas the Tremor U-bolts are around $20 each. I forgot to measure the rear ride height before I started, so I'm not 100% sure. Most others have ended up with around 1/2" of lift in the rear. I think that's probably accurate, but like I said I haven't measured.

1. Jacked up the rear end by the pumpkin, put jack stands under the frame, let the axle down until the springs were almost all the way at full droop, and removed the lower shock bolts (in retrospect I might not have needed to do this since I have Eibach shocks).
2. Unbolted the U-bolts on one side and let the jack down a bit to let the axle drop away from the spring.
3. Unbolted the rear shackle and slid it to the side to let the rear of the spring drop and then removed spring-to-frame bolt. (Make sure to keep track of the original shackle bushings, you'll probably need them.)
4. Removed the spring, reused the factory driver's side shim, and knocked the saddle off the factory spring to reuse on the new spring.
5. Placed the new spring, got everything lined back up, and loosely bolted it back up. Final torque should be done with weight on the suspension so the bushings don't get twisted.
6. Repeated 2-5 on the passenger side.
7. Put the wheels back on (100 ft-lbs.) and dropped the jack quickly to let the suspension bounce and settle a bit.
8. Torqued everything to spec.
   1. Lower shock bolt - 52 ft-lbs.
   2. Spring-to-frame bolt - 119 ft-lbs.
   3. Shackle bolts - 76 ft-lbs.
   4. U-bolts - tighten in a cross pattern in four steps
      1. 26 ft-lbs.
      2. 52 ft-lbs.
      3. 76 ft-lbs.
      4. 98 ft-lbs.
9. Go enjoy your truck that no longer tries to throw you through the windshield on dips and bumps.

 

[deleriumtremor]

Finished installing the Y cable for my AMP step install. The AMP steps use the ODB port for trigger sense (knows when a door is opened or closed). I wanted my ODB port free, so installed a Y cable and put one end on the AMP plug and the other tail to a bracket I fabricated to mount where the old OEM ODB port was located. I then zip tied the old ODB port/bracket and cable and all the extra Y cables back so they sat behind the foot well trim cover.

Now looks and operates like the original ODB port.

 

[deleriumtremor]

I installed my Wildtrak/global leaf springs today. All I can say is, WHY DIDN'T THE TRUCK COME THIS WAY?!

It's a night and day difference.

I am very interested in your spring swap.

I am contemplating upgrading dampers (now have stock FX4 dampers). My big issue is washboarding we drive on almost every day on one of the dirt roads (fire roads, 4x trails, etc.) we use to get up into the hills.

My damping and spring setup is so bad, if I am not creeping over the washboards, I literally am not fully in control steering and braking wise. Over maybe 5 MPH on the toughest stuff, the truck just slides around wildly and control is a very fleeting thing.

I will be researching as much as I can about which dampers will perform best in these washboards but know some of the issue is how the truck is sprung.

Any feedback you might have with regard to the above on your setup would be very appreciated.

 

[RedDakooter05]

Only thing extra I needed was longer U-bolts. I opted for the Rough Country 7604 set. They're $40 for a set of 4, whereas the Tremor U-bolts are around $20 each. I forgot to measure the rear ride height before I started, so I'm not 100% sure. Most others have ended up with around 1/2" of lift in the rear. I think that's probably accurate, but like I said I haven't measured.

1. Jacked up the rear end by the pumpkin, put jack stands under the frame, let the axle down until the springs were almost all the way at full droop, and removed the lower shock bolts (in retrospect I might not have needed to do this since I have Eibach shocks).
2. Unbolted the U-bolts on one side and let the jack down a bit to let the axle drop away from the spring.
3. Unbolted the rear shackle and slid it to the side to let the rear of the spring drop and then removed spring-to-frame bolt. (Make sure to keep track of the original shackle bushings, you'll probably need them.)
4. Removed the spring, reused the factory driver's side shim, and knocked the saddle off the factory spring to reuse on the new spring.
5. Placed the new spring, got everything lined back up, and loosely bolted it back up. Final torque should be done with weight on the suspension so the bushings don't get twisted.
6. Repeated 2-5 on the passenger side.
7. Put the wheels back on (100 ft-lbs.) and dropped the jack quickly to let the suspension bounce and settle a bit.
8. Torqued everything to spec.
   1. Lower shock bolt - 52 ft-lbs.
   2. Spring-to-frame bolt - 119 ft-lbs.
   3. Shackle bolts - 76 ft-lbs.
   4. U-bolts - tighten in a cross pattern in four steps
      1. 26 ft-lbs.
      2. 52 ft-lbs.
      3. 76 ft-lbs.
      4. 98 ft-lbs.
9. Go enjoy your truck that no longer tries to throw you through the windshield on dips and bumps.

Nice, thanks for the info.

Who was the seller? I'm finding a few on ebay but they don't sell in pairs for some reason...

 

[Dahveed]

I am very interested in your spring swap.

I am contemplating upgrading dampers (now have stock FX4 dampers). My big issue is washboarding we drive on almost every day on one of the dirt roads (fire roads, 4x trails, etc.) we use to get up into the hills.

My damping and spring setup is so bad, if I am not creeping over the washboards, I literally am not fully in control steering and braking wise. Over maybe 5 MPH on the toughest stuff, the truck just slides around wildly and control is a very fleeting thing.

I will be researching as much as I can about which dampers will perform best in these washboards but know some of the issue is how the truck is sprung.

Any feedback you might have with regard to the above on your setup would be very appreciated.

As others have said, these must have a much lower spring rate than the USDM springs. The ride is massively improved to me. As soon as I dropped off the curb on my driveway, I could tell it was better. I went and drove around town and then headed towards a friend's house that has a poorly grated/washboard dirt road. It still rides like a truck, but the springs actually absorb it instead of transferring all of the energy to the truck. Highly recommended.

My Eibach shocks were a huge improvement over the stock non-FX4 shocks, but this is another level.

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