maxbottomtime
Well-Known Member
I run premium (mainly because i want more power baby), but at current price gaps you are better off taking the MPG hit and paying less per gallon.
Sponsored
Sponsored
Frenchy
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Chris
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2020
- Threads
- 164
- Messages
- 7,548
- Reaction score
- 10,757
- Location
- Elizabeth, Colorado
- Vehicle(s)
- 2012 Nissan Frontier, 1994 F150 XL, 2022 Ford Transit
- Occupation
- Field Service Technician
This is not a price per gallon discussion or price per mile discussion. The OP lives in California where the prices far exceed the average for the country in case you were wondering
maxbottomtime
Well-Known Member
If you are complaining about gas mileage, but everything else is working well you are likely complaining about cost to run.
My point is, paying 30% more for premium and gaining 10% gas mileage is not a worthwhile trade. See also, my comment on gap for premium. It's $1.00+ higher for 93 vs 87 at a lot of stations around me. If your price differential is less maybe the math shifts, which is what I was getting at.
Appreciate you providing OP's motive though.
MrBusses
Well-Known Member
My mom has a 21 4x2 with nothing done to it, she will get 24-26mpgs but she babies the crap out of it and runs premium. I get 21 on average in my fx4 that has slightly bigger tires and a level and I run regular, I don't baby it but I also don't run wide open throttle when the light turns green.
OP your mpgs are within norms all you are doing now is gonna waste the techs time who has to bring it in the bay scan it just to say there is nothing wrong which is going to piss you off so you leave them a bad survey and now its the stealership wont fix my truck I got a lemon. A little research before taking it to the dealer will save everyone time and money.
OP your mpgs are within norms all you are doing now is gonna waste the techs time who has to bring it in the bay scan it just to say there is nothing wrong which is going to piss you off so you leave them a bad survey and now its the stealership wont fix my truck I got a lemon. A little research before taking it to the dealer will save everyone time and money.
Rp930
Well-Known Member
As a former tech I’m not sure I would even bring it in and waste my time. I would probably ask the Service Manager what he expected me to do and how I was going to get paid for it.
Frenchy
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Chris
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2020
- Threads
- 164
- Messages
- 7,548
- Reaction score
- 10,757
- Location
- Elizabeth, Colorado
- Vehicle(s)
- 2012 Nissan Frontier, 1994 F150 XL, 2022 Ford Transit
- Occupation
- Field Service Technician
I would tell the service writer to not waist my time since I value my time and pay more then that
MrBusses
Well-Known Member
OH for sure. Usually its no engine light = cya but There are advisors and managers that will make you still bringing it in and "inspect" it if nothing else for the multipoint. Then again it is 110 out so a test drive in the AC to "verify" the concern might be needed.
But yeah if MPGs are your only concern that tech is gonna blow it out but the OP is still probably leaving a bad survey and again its a lemon and the stealership wont fix it
If you want better mpgs in a "truck" get a Maverick if you can find one and its gonna run you 40k
The mpgs on the ranger is like driving a hybrid compared to my Tacoma... god you want bad MPGs drive a toyota, granted it will out live you and your kids but yeah fuel milage sucks
Last edited:
Frenchy
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Chris
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2020
- Threads
- 164
- Messages
- 7,548
- Reaction score
- 10,757
- Location
- Elizabeth, Colorado
- Vehicle(s)
- 2012 Nissan Frontier, 1994 F150 XL, 2022 Ford Transit
- Occupation
- Field Service Technician
Lol only if the shop foreman and warranty personal at the dealer allow it. It's.part of why I do not work at a dealership anymore..... Well a car dealership to be specific......
mtbikernate
Well-Known Member
I agree that the economy you're getting seems within range. Now, granted, for me, that's kinda worst case driving scenarios. Only time mine has been that bad has been wintertime, idling in a drive-thru, truck has only been running for 10-20min or so (so it isn't fully warmed up), blasting the heat, etc.
Lately it's been pretty warm for me with fairly high humidity, so the A/C blasts hard when I first start driving (I use the auto climate control setting almost all the time) and when the A/C is blasting that hard, it makes a noticeable hit on fuel economy. After I've been driving awhile and the cabin temp hits the target, the A/C dials way back and fuel economy goes back up.
I've noticed ASS can make a difference in fuel economy, but it's heavily dependent on total conditions. It won't kick on when the A/C is blasting hard, even when I know the battery is near max. It really only makes a notable difference if your traffic signals are fairly short and widely spaced. You're still taking the economy hit from accelerating from a stop, so if your stops are frequent, that's going to more than make up for any economy savings from the engine kicking off. If you're stopped for long enough like for a really long light or for a long drive-thru line, the truck will turn itself back on long before you're ready to start moving again, so again, you're not really gaining anything from it. You could probably extend the length of time ASS has to work with by turning off all climate functions and putting the windows down, but there are obvious disadvantages to doing that.
Lately it's been pretty warm for me with fairly high humidity, so the A/C blasts hard when I first start driving (I use the auto climate control setting almost all the time) and when the A/C is blasting that hard, it makes a noticeable hit on fuel economy. After I've been driving awhile and the cabin temp hits the target, the A/C dials way back and fuel economy goes back up.
I've noticed ASS can make a difference in fuel economy, but it's heavily dependent on total conditions. It won't kick on when the A/C is blasting hard, even when I know the battery is near max. It really only makes a notable difference if your traffic signals are fairly short and widely spaced. You're still taking the economy hit from accelerating from a stop, so if your stops are frequent, that's going to more than make up for any economy savings from the engine kicking off. If you're stopped for long enough like for a really long light or for a long drive-thru line, the truck will turn itself back on long before you're ready to start moving again, so again, you're not really gaining anything from it. You could probably extend the length of time ASS has to work with by turning off all climate functions and putting the windows down, but there are obvious disadvantages to doing that.
Blmpkn
Well-Known Member
My truck would get 23-24 mpg at 55-60 unloaded, no wind, flat ground.
As soon as even the slightest incline appeared.. it would drop to below 18.. a real steep hill would drag it down to 15.. trying to do the same thing at 70mph would be around 18 on flat ground and 13 going up a good hill.
Turbos ain't all fun n games... load makes boost.. boost uses fuel. These trucks sit right on the cusp of boost at highway speeds.. install a boost guage and re-train that right foot.
That all being said... most of my driving was between 45-55, minimal stop and go, decently hilly area... I averaged low-mid 19mpg leveled with 32"s.
The bronco however.. same motor, trans, gears.. on 35"s.. averaging 21mpg ?
Mabey just trade er in for a bronco.. because what your seeing isn't reasonable cause for a trip to the stealership.. or labeling it a lemon ?
As soon as even the slightest incline appeared.. it would drop to below 18.. a real steep hill would drag it down to 15.. trying to do the same thing at 70mph would be around 18 on flat ground and 13 going up a good hill.
Turbos ain't all fun n games... load makes boost.. boost uses fuel. These trucks sit right on the cusp of boost at highway speeds.. install a boost guage and re-train that right foot.
That all being said... most of my driving was between 45-55, minimal stop and go, decently hilly area... I averaged low-mid 19mpg leveled with 32"s.
The bronco however.. same motor, trans, gears.. on 35"s.. averaging 21mpg ?
Mabey just trade er in for a bronco.. because what your seeing isn't reasonable cause for a trip to the stealership.. or labeling it a lemon ?
jflogerzi
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Jeff
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2021
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 1,408
- Reaction score
- 3,455
- Location
- Moreno Valley, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- DD/Tow CG MY22 Ranger XLT 2WD, Track Car FRS 2013
it varries honestly. most say may contain up to % of ethanol
MrBusses
Well-Known Member
Ive heard it's been hard for some people to get paid because of warranty people but there is a Ford op code for it now so it's really hard to say no to it.
Grumpaw
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Steve
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2021
- Threads
- 84
- Messages
- 5,868
- Reaction score
- 29,236
- Location
- Fishersville, Va.
- Vehicle(s)
- Previous 2021 Ranger, Now 2019 Ford Expedition
- Occupation
- Navy Vet., Retired Police Sgt., Grumpy Old Senior Citizen
My Scan Gauge 3 has one of the parameters available for "Instant MPG" reading.
I believe most of you would be shocked to see how quickly the mpg drops with just the slightest acceleration. Once the turbo kicks in with higher boost, the mpg drops very quickly.
Going from 22-24 mpg, at lets say 45 mph on flat ground...hit the accelerator to go up to 55 mph, or too maintain speed going up a grade, can drop the mpg into the single digits, and will remain there until your back to cruising speed or throttle back.
Going from 45 mph to 55 mph, even at cruising will drop the mpg at least 10-15%. As your speed increases, the mpg will drop....obviously using more fuel to maintain higher speed.
Using the cruise control that keeps a steady speed will obviously help, but lets be realistic....due to traffic your always either hitting brakes or speeding up depending on traffic flow....I can't even remember the last time I used the CC.
Throw in all the variables like wind, load, road condition, tire pressure, outside air temperature, ect and it will all have an affect on mpg.
When towing my 7000 lb trailer, and climbing a grade, I have observed the mpg drop to 5-6 mpg, and less if its a serious grade.
I guess I'm lucky in that I don't concern myself with mpg or worry about whether the Ranger is getting 18 or 20 mpg. It is what it is, and I bought the Ranger for what it can do/what I need and expect it to do.
I believe most of you would be shocked to see how quickly the mpg drops with just the slightest acceleration. Once the turbo kicks in with higher boost, the mpg drops very quickly.
Going from 22-24 mpg, at lets say 45 mph on flat ground...hit the accelerator to go up to 55 mph, or too maintain speed going up a grade, can drop the mpg into the single digits, and will remain there until your back to cruising speed or throttle back.
Going from 45 mph to 55 mph, even at cruising will drop the mpg at least 10-15%. As your speed increases, the mpg will drop....obviously using more fuel to maintain higher speed.
Using the cruise control that keeps a steady speed will obviously help, but lets be realistic....due to traffic your always either hitting brakes or speeding up depending on traffic flow....I can't even remember the last time I used the CC.
Throw in all the variables like wind, load, road condition, tire pressure, outside air temperature, ect and it will all have an affect on mpg.
When towing my 7000 lb trailer, and climbing a grade, I have observed the mpg drop to 5-6 mpg, and less if its a serious grade.
I guess I'm lucky in that I don't concern myself with mpg or worry about whether the Ranger is getting 18 or 20 mpg. It is what it is, and I bought the Ranger for what it can do/what I need and expect it to do.
Sponsored
Last edited:
