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2020 Ranger EGR Cooler Issue

joroberts240

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Check engine light came on, got the " The engine control system has detected the exhaust gas cooler is not operating as efficiently as expected "notice on the app.
The coolant was a little low, so I filled it up, and the light went out two days later. The light came back on, then went off a few times, each time taking a couple days between on & off. I took it to the dealer, they said the diagnostics pointed to a coolant leak, but a three day pressure test showed no leak. They said they didn't want to replace the EGR cooler if they could not definitively state that this was the problem.
I got the truck back from them. They added UV die to the coolant and said drive it 1000 miles, and they would look for a leak.
#1 - never had a dealership service department not want to throw parts at a problem...so color me impressed.
#2 - do you think I risk any damage driving it if the light comes on and goes out on its own? Should I drive it until the light stays on for more than a few days?
#3 - is the EGR cooler easily accessible for replacement? if its not too expensive, I don't mind replacing it myself. Any hints on a part number?
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airline tech

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Here is a System Description, I believe you may have a bad reservoir cap and the cooling system is not circulating normally, hence low coolant level and no visible leaks. I think that this is an example of thinking outside the box and pressure checking the cap may prove effective, so I would ask the dealer if they tested the cap itself.

The EGR cooler is a sensor that is reading inputs form other sensors and a low coolant level and or low coolant flow will trigger that code. (Most Likely P2457 - EGR Cooler Efficiency Below Threshold)
It is possible that the sensor has an intermittent fault, but I would look at why the coolant was low, and the cap is often overlooked.

If you have Forscan or a scan tool with bi-directional control, there is a pinpoint test to check operation, but it requires driving the ERG valve (Commanded Position) open with the scan tool and monitor voltage readings, this test to do it completely requires a voltmeter and vacuum gauge.

I would first monitor your coolant gauge; it normally sets in the middle of the gauge scale when at operating temperature and get the reservoir cap checked or just replace it, it's about $10, I think.

But in order to replace the EGR Cooler, it requires the cooling system to be drained thus draining out the dye that the dealer put in the system and if you do in fact have a small leak the dye will help in locating where it is.

There is one other possible factor and that is a blown head gasket, pressure check of cooling system is 20 psi, and sometimes is not enough to show a leaking head gasket, however with the engine running the cylinder pressure is greater and push pressure into the cooling system and cause low coolant due to improper circulation, because of the air being applied to the system.
A CO2 Tester can test for this type of leak.
Note: This type of issue would normally show itself as constant engine overheating, and not all head gasket leaks show themselves by coolant in the oil (milky dipstick)
I have seen this quite a few times where the owner had replaced everything, Water-Pump, Radiator, T-Stat and even the heater core and still overheating, a quick 5-minute test with the Co-Test kit reveled bad head gasket, so he threw all that money into it without performing actual tests.

Egr Cooler - Ford (LB5Z-9F464-A)
  • MSRP:$113.40
  • Discount:$35.15 (31% off)
  • Sale Price:$78.25
 

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joroberts240

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Thanks for the through reply. Great info. I will check/replace the coolant reservoir cap.
 


Funrunner2

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Be cautious about this issue. My 2020 threw the code, egr below threshold and I ended up needing the block rebuilt. Basically the egr cooler failed and then the head gasket failed. Bright side is I had the shop switch to head studs instead of head bolts.
 

dtech

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Be cautious about this issue. My 2020 threw the code, egr below threshold and I ended up needing the block rebuilt. Basically the egr cooler failed and then the head gasket failed. Bright side is I had the shop switch to head studs instead of head bolts.
Adding a low cost (cheap?) exhaust gas to fluid heat exchanger to cool hot exhaust gases so they can be re-introduced to cool the combustion chamber just makes such perfect sense, how could such a system ever fail. Hope yours was all covered under warranty.
 

Funrunner2

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Adding a low cost (cheap?) exhaust gas to fluid heat exchanger to cool hot exhaust gases so they can be re-introduced to cool the combustion chamber just makes such perfect sense, how could such a system ever fail. Hope yours was all covered under warranty.
Sadly, no. Even with the part causing the headgasket to go, Ford said because my truck was modified, they won't touch it. I had a shop end up doing it (friend that use to be a ford master tech for 20+ years) and gave me a good deal and switched the studs. Overall was $2200 to replace the defective part, all gaskets, ARP head studs (a lot better than fords) and the rebuild.
 

dtech

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Sadly, no. Even with the part causing the headgasket to go, Ford said because my truck was modified, they won't touch it. I had a shop end up doing it (friend that use to be a ford master tech for 20+ years) and gave me a good deal and switched the studs. Overall was $2200 to replace the defective part, all gaskets, ARP head studs (a lot better than fords) and the rebuild.
sorry to hear that, appreciate giving the board cautionary advice . some makers/engines don't use egr but accomplish similar results with cvvt , all required to meet NO2 emissions. Based on the number of posters reporting EGR issues - seems Ford's system has some issues.
 

Iowa Guy

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Check engine light came on, got the " The engine control system has detected the exhaust gas cooler is not operating as efficiently as expected "notice on the app.
The coolant was a little low, so I filled it up, and the light went out two days later. The light came back on, then went off a few times, each time taking a couple days between on & off. I took it to the dealer, they said the diagnostics pointed to a coolant leak, but a three day pressure test showed no leak. They said they didn't want to replace the EGR cooler if they could not definitively state that this was the problem.
I got the truck back from them. They added UV die to the coolant and said drive it 1000 miles, and they would look for a leak.
#1 - never had a dealership service department not want to throw parts at a problem...so color me impressed.
#2 - do you think I risk any damage driving it if the light comes on and goes out on its own? Should I drive it until the light stays on for more than a few days?
#3 - is the EGR cooler easily accessible for replacement? if its not too expensive, I don't mind replacing it myself. Any hints on a part number?
I have had this issue 3 times in last 4 weeks, first time they replaced EGR c=valve under warranty, it has come on twice since then, last time it came on it turned off 20 minutes later, been in the shop for all 3 instances. for me, all 3 times was driving into a strong headwind, i doubt that is a contributor, but it is maddening to say the least. i can confirm that the alerts on my Ford pass APP are almost instantaneous.
 

mdformula350

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just got code P2457 about egr cooler temp threshold so going to check coolant cap and level and go from there.
geez this truck is starting to slowly fade downhill now,, arggg
 

MiataBro11

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We need an EGR bypass like the diesel guys have.
I agree, I have looked for one before but no one has tried it or makes one. I unfortunately doubt we will ever see one with how the EPA has cracked down on companies selling egr/cat/dpf deletes.
 

MountainGoat

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I agree, I have looked for one before but no one has tried it or makes one. I unfortunately doubt we will ever see one with how the EPA has cracked down on companies selling egr/cat/dpf deletes.
Yeah this is so dumb, having to do a delete on gas engines now. Maybe something will pop up overseas alibaba-style.
 

mdformula350

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well no issue with coolant level and the cap was clean and tight. I checked the oil and looked normal and no smoke out the tailpipes.

I took the little DPFE sensor off to inspect and clean with electronic cleaner and cleared the code, it came back after a day.

so ill start with that sensor first.
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