TSB 20-2277 2019-2020 Ranger - Shudder/Vibration When Accelerating From A Stop

[Shoran12]

During a recent oil change and alignment service I got a call that my thrust angle is near max which is confounding the alignment. After some conversation of history of my driveline shudder I reminded them they did TSB 20-2277 and touched the rear axle last, December 2020. I asked if the axle could have slipped on the perches, they responded no ,not likely. They said they would work on it more. I picked up the truck and while the wheel was straight I noticed on the TPS display all four wheels have different pressures. I stopped and equalized them and now my wheel is cocked to the left to go straight. My patience is maxed and contemplating getting rid of the truck. I get my head together and formulate a plan.

I got underneath the truck and looked at the rear leaf/shim stacks on both sides and discover a problem. I can see the axle center bolt head properly in the hole on the right leaf perch but cannot see anything in the left leaf perch hole. I would expect a technician to catch this but apparently not this time.

I had already been planning to try my hand at the TSB and had new u-bolts and axle center bolts on hand. Long story short, I jacked up the truck (following good safety practices) and removed the u-bolts. I found on the left side the flat shim that was supposed to be removed in the TSB was still there preventing the axle center bolt head from reaching the perch hole. On the right side the flat shim was not removed but there was no issue with the axle center bolt position. The 1.5° angle shims were in their proper places. The design of the Ford angled shims is not bolted with the axle center bolts to the leaf stack but held by the head of the bolt (it is longer than a standard leaf bolt head)

Summary, I removed the flat shims on the left (6mm) and right (7.6mm) sides. I reassembled the left side with the existing flat shim that is bolted to the leaf stack along with the thick 1.5° angle shim. I assembled the right side with only the thin 1.5° angle shim. I tightened up the u-bolts nuts snug, lowered the truck and followed the progressive torque instructions eventually to 98lb/ft.

I took the truck for a test drive and noticed a big difference in the take off feel. The shudder is not gone but it is barely noticeable now and there is a smoothness at low speeds in the shudder zone that has never existed before. My truck also tracks straight and also finally level in the rear. I had to do a driveway centering of my tie rod ends to get my steering wheel straight until I can get a proper alignment. I am beginning to like my Ranger again.

Some may ask why I did this myself and not bitch at the dealership who did the TSB and alignment last. I have lost confidence in those who should have done this right to begin with. I am a mechanical/technical person and now I have the satisfaction of the job done right.

Glad you got it figured out. I try to preach to my kids that you always have to do a job until it finished. Much like life. The last year I have had to correct probably 20 jobs (from work on my house being done, taking cars to dealership, movers, tax refunds, etc.). You almost have to hand walk people through stuff nowadays. That’s not to say I’m perfect, far from it, but when I start something it will be done right. If I can’t do it then I’ll find someone who can. I had the attention to detail drilled into me so maybe that’s what it is. So anyway, my question is exactly what did your shudder feel like? I ”might” have a very minute shudder around 10 mph, but it’s intermittent and happens about a second or two before the truck shifts to third gear. I can feel it in my seat ever so slightly. I originally thought it was the truck shifting but when watching gears it happens just before 3rd gear when accelerating right at 10mph. It’s definitely not the transmission doing it’s low idle. My carrier bearing is centered left and right but the inner race/shaft rides a bit low in its housing. Reason I’m asking is because I’m considering a rear leaf spring swap and have seen people have issues after changing suspension height. The spring I’m looking at would raise the rear about an inch. My problem is not very noticeable at all but I don’t want to exacerbate it if it actually does exist.

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[Shoran12]

It does not address the issue you are mentioning. I have the same thing, and have had it since I bought the truck 2 years ago. What this TSB does is address a vibration coming from the drive line by shimming the rear leaf springs. I hounded the dealer until they did it (did it wrong out of spite) and it didn't work. I have since read an encouraging post in another thread wherein someone advised the dealer they were about to proceed with a lemon law case and lo and behold, that dealer got serious about trying to fix it. Among the things mentioned by the poster was that the tech had shimmed the center carrier bearing, but more interestingly, that tech was advised by another tech to change a 'sensor'. The poster stated that fixed his and two other Rangers The part number given was that of an Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. The part costs about $75 and I am not going to pay labor to have it installed just to see if it works. I am hoping Ford will research that and write a TSB for that.

My bucking problem, which Ford is monumentally uninterested in addressing, occurs when the 10 speed tries to get to the highest possible gear as fast as possible, which results in 6th gear at 30 miles per hour. The result is that the engine is trying to pull the truck at 1500 RPMs. I have learned that I can somewhat ameliorate the bucking by driving at in-town speeds (most of my driving) in Tow Mode, which keeps the transmission from shifting as soon and holds the RPMS higher than 1500, or by using the button on the gearshift to lock out the higher gears. You have to lock them out after each time you have put the trans in park, though. Sport mode also works, but you have to do the shifting.

Good luck

My transmission does this as well. Going up a hill in 5th, RPS drop a bit low and I get the rumble stop vibration. I’ve read many posts similar to what’s going on with mine. If I give a bit of gas or let off, the transmission will downshift. This only really happens on slight inclines. Tow mode and sport mode both alleviate this. Im guessing it’s a characteristic of the transmission always being in the highest gear possible since the EPA hounds auto makers about saving the environment by getting us an extra half a mile to the gallon. Anyway, seems very common. I disconnected the battery in hopes that the “auto learn” cycle might pick up on how I drive (I’m second owner of the truck) but that also could be completely not how it works lol. It does seem a bit better since doing this though. To me it’s nothing mechanical but rather the factory tuning. Im not sure if there is an actual update to the TCM that would fix this other than an actual tune.

 

[navsnipe]

Glad you got it figured out. I try to preach to my kids that you always have to do a job until it finished. Much like life. The last year I have had to correct probably 20 jobs (from work on my house being done, taking cars to dealership, movers, tax refunds, etc.). You almost have to hand walk people through stuff nowadays. That’s not to say I’m perfect, far from it, but when I start something it will be done right. If I can’t do it then I’ll find someone who can. I had the attention to detail drilled into me so maybe that’s what it is. So anyway, my question is exactly what did your shudder feel like? I ”might” have a very minute shudder around 10 mph, but it’s intermittent and happens about a second or two before the truck shifts to third gear. I can feel it in my seat ever so slightly. I originally thought it was the truck shifting but when watching gears it happens just before 3rd gear when accelerating right at 10mph. It’s definitely not the transmission doing it’s low idle. My carrier bearing is centered left and right but the inner race/shaft rides a bit low in its housing. Reason I’m asking is because I’m considering a rear leaf spring swap and have seen people have issues after changing suspension height. The spring I’m looking at would raise the rear about an inch. My problem is not very noticeable at all but I don’t want to exacerbate it if it actually does exist.

The driveline shudder wasn't eliminated until I put a one-piece driveshaft from Tom Woods on the truck. The shudder could also described as a tremble or shake felt through the seat. It is an oscillation of the center bearing due to the soft support material.

 

[1pt21gw]

The driveline shudder wasn't eliminated until I put a one-piece driveshaft from Tom Woods on the truck. The shudder could also described as a tremble or shake felt through the seat. It is an oscillation of the center bearing due to the soft support material.

How is the new driveshaft from Tom Woods working out? Looks to be an easy upgrade, yes?

Got a Pic?

 

[TJC]

How is the new driveshaft from Tom Woods working out? Looks to be an easy upgrade, yes?

Got a Pic?

I know the question wasn't aimed at me, but ....

I just returned from a 500+ mile trip in my 2020 Ranger. The first trip of any distance with sustained speed of 75+ mph since installing the TW Driveshaft. 200+ miles were on Interstate highways where I averaged 75mph, and topped 80mph several times.

This was impossible to do with the stock driveshaft due to severe shudder with speeds >=75mph.
I am happy to report that the ride was smooth as silk., no shakes, shudders, or anything except smooth delivery of power all along the power curve.

I had to be very careful as the power was so smooth that the speed would sneak up on me. I'd look down and see I was travelling at 80mph! I'd back it down to 75mph and set the cruise control.

It is very nice to have a smooth running 2020 Ranger! MPG at 75+mph 24.1, at 55mph on previous trips I reached 28.4 mpg.

Install was quick, straightforward, and easy.

- Tony

 

[Shoran12]

The driveline shudder wasn't eliminated until I put a one-piece driveshaft from Tom Woods on the truck. The shudder could also described as a tremble or shake felt through the seat. It is an oscillation of the center bearing due to the soft support material.

Well glad the one piece drive shaft did it for you! I’m currently planning on changing the leaf springs in this truck with some globals (made a post about it on here) and figure If what I’m thinking is a start up shudder gets worse (mines is very minor/intermittent compared to others) then I’ll just bite the bullet and get a TW shaft and be done. I’ve already need to do the windshield adhesive TSB which I guess was present when I purchased the vehicle. I always check for Recalls before buying but while looking at truck I guess I never checked this one. Luckily that’s really the only issue other than me trying to get a bit better ride out of the truck on less than perfect roads (much of my 2 hour commute to work and back). At this point in my life I’d rather pay 600 or so up front to avoid taking the truck in and having to take off work. Honestly might even save me money by going that route. Life’s too short. Glad you got it figured out with from what I have read seems like a proper fix.

 

[navsnipe]

How is the new driveshaft from Tom Woods working out? Looks to be an easy upgrade, yes?

Got a Pic?

The Tom Woods driveshaft is great. As TJC described, it transforms the truck for those who were having the driveline shudder and vibration.

Check out this thread for info and pictures.
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/one-piece-driveshaft.21381/

 

[Modman]

New to the forum and found some good info already (hopefully)... Recently acquired a 2020 Ranger with 20k miles that seems to have this slight vibration/shudder while accelerating. Only happens from a stop and goes away maybe above 10-15mph. I will be taking it in and will note this TSB.

 

[Redwinemaker]

I just saw this post and I’m pretty sure my new tremor is behaving the exact same as you describe. In normal D mode when cruising at 30mph and giving light throttle the rpms drop too low and the truck shutters/vibrates and just feels horrible. Seems to happen below 1500rpm in certain situations.

tow mode and sport mode above 2k rpm and everything is butter smooth and fine. Is this what your describing? Almost feels like the engine is lugging. I’v been debating about taking it in to Ford but maybe it’s normal. Idk. Tow mode and sport mode are awesome and no issues but regular D sucks lol
Any updates on yours?

Same issue here, appears to be no fix, very frustrating. I'll try tow mode, Sport mode still produces the shuttering, it's like shifting a manual transmission too early, my truck is a 2019, and my question to the Dealer was how come it was fine for the first 50K? Of course no reasonable answer. Also, just a heads up, check your plugs, the cowling probably leaks and your spark plug wells are filling with water, there are some other posts on here in regards to this issue, It cost me a new head since the plug was so rusted.

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