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New route for dash cam cables

billwinkle

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I am installing my Rove R3 today. I was having trouble with Remington the A pillar moulding so I discovered an easier route. I pulled up the left defroster vend and found I can drop the power and rear camera cables straight down thru the dash without a hiccup. Still pushing wires out of the way but thought I would post this .
P.S. can anyone tell me which fusesto use for ignition and accessory? I am getting too tired to figure this out.
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Dereku

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I am installing my Rove R3 today. I was having trouble with Remington the A pillar moulding so I discovered an easier route. I pulled up the left defroster vend and found I can drop the power and rear camera cables straight down thru the dash without a hiccup. Still pushing wires out of the way but thought I would post this .
P.S. can anyone tell me which fusesto use for ignition and accessory? I am getting too tired to figure this out.
20221128_170235.webp
Would have been easier if you weren't using the 870 on it.
 

Dereku

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I really need to see what auto complete types for me. Remington was supposed to be removing. Told you I was tired.
I hate the autocorrect on my phone. I turned it off but there are still suggestions that I accidentally hit while typing.
 

Apples

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I've been using a dash cam since 2003. I have always used a top windshield-mounted unit, and have always routed the wiring down the passenger "A" pillar. And the rear cam wiring through the right overhead side moulding. In the 7 vehicles I've owned since, all allowed the aforementioned.

Sidelight: The first dash cam I bought, was an F1000. It cost me just over $1,000. About $250 of that was the rear cam, all in 640X480. Recording time was about an hour total before write over. The current one, A Rexing (≈$300), has 4K front, cabin, and rear cameras; Audio; Full GPS location and speed; And enough memory for a week's worth of driving (my personal driving cycle). Times have really changed!
 


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billwinkle

billwinkle

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I knew I was tired last night. I could not figure why the camera would not power on. I thought I was using the wrong fuses. Turns out my battery ran down below 12.2 volts while I was installing the camera. The voltage protection switch was set to turn off the power to the camera at 12.2. My battery this morning was at 11.9. Duh
 

subquark

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I really need to see what auto complete types for me. Remington was supposed to be removing. Told you I was tired.
I think Remington is entirely appropriate! The thought of running power to a dash cam certainly makes me want to use a Remington ...
 

RangerVol

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Which fuses in the fuse box did decide on using, also picts if you got'm
I'll have to keep the route you took in mind when I finally decide on what I want.

Also I have an iPhoneX. I tell people all my typos is just Apple trying to make me update to a newer phone :like:
 
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billwinkle

billwinkle

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Which fuses in the fuse box did decide on using, also picts if you got'm
I'll have to keep the route you took in mind when I finally decide on what I want.

Also I have an iPhoneX. I tell people all my typos is just Apple trying to make me update to a newer phone :like:
I used 30 for constant power and 37 for acc power. They were the easiest to plug on the fuse tap.
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RangerVol

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I used 30 for constant power and 37 for acc power. They were the easiest to plug on the fuse tap.
Thanks
Another dumb question when using those fuse taps...

It looks like you used two 5 amp fuses? So it's ok to mix like that? I'm guessing the one that comes out of the slot goes into the slot on the tap that's closer to the fusebox, makes sense since it'll be the last one to blow if something went bad...

I know you need to put them in correctly according to if the fuse is right side up or upside down...
So if the fuse in the box reads left to right like you normally read. You put the fuses in the tap to read left to right and plug the tap in so the fuses are pointing up like in your photo.

If the fuse is upside down in the fuse box, do you just flip the fuses in the fuse tap and plug in with the fuses pointed up or do you put the fuses in the tap reading left to right but flip the tap upside down so that the fuses are pointing down?

Where did you hook your ground wire up? I don't see it

Which fuse type does the Ranger use that you replaced? Looks like two different styles
Yeah I know I could grab the manual but since you did it recently you may remember lol
 
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billwinkle

billwinkle

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I'm not sure which way to put the taps but they are working fine. 30 has a 30A fuse and 37 is a 20A. I confirmed them when I pulled them for the tap. The Rove camera uses 5 Amp fuses. The fuses are mini's.the larger fuses you don't want to use as they are micro3 fuses
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with 3 blades.
The gro und wire is below the fuse panel. The picture is not the best but it should help.
 

RangerVol

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Gotcha. I think the VIOFO uses 5A fuses too but I'll confirm that if that's the brand I go with
I see the ground wire that you pointed out
So I'll need to order two mini fuse taps and two mini 5a fuses
 

RangerVol

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I looked in my manual and it says 30 30A Not Used(Spare) and 37 20A Not Used(Spare) but the book says those are Micro 2 fuses. Guess when I get to the point I'll pull them and see and also put a probe to see if one is constant and one is ACC
Wish the manual said
 
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billwinkle

billwinkle

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I looked in my manual and it says 30 30A Not Used(Spare) and 37 20A Not Used(Spare) but the book says those are Micro 2 fuses. Guess when I get to the point I'll pull them and see and also put a probe to see if one is constant and one is ACC
Wish the manual said
That is correct. Though they are spares they are still hot. Plus 30 is hot at all times while 37 is accessory. It worked for me.
Maybe we should make a sticky to help anyone else installing dash cams. I had to go thru multiple web sites to find out how to pull trim pieces electrical etc. Like I found a plug inside the jack storage to allow me to route the rear camera cable to the back of the bed.
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