Australian Style Flatbed and Canopy Build

[TopoRanger]

I’m ready to weld the tray to the main supports now. But first it’s supper time. I’ll work on the headboard next.

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[Dr3wDrop]

I’m ready to weld the tray to the main supports now. But first it’s supper time. I’ll work on the headboard next.

i am not a structural engineer or anything but you may want to weld at least a small lateral support to avoid it twisting over time. I’m thinking like a triangle in the middle front to back.

 

[TopoRanger]

i am not a structural engineer or anything but you may want to weld at least a small lateral support to avoid it twisting over time. I’m thinking like a triangle in the middle front to back.

Like gussets under the tray? Where you talkin?

 

[Dr3wDrop]

Like gussets under the tray? Where you talkin?

something like this.

 

[TopoRanger]

something like this.

Ah I gotcha I don’t think that’s necessary to be honest. That’s area will where the “trundle drawer” will go.

 

[TopoRanger]

There is one side of the headboard. It took a few try’s to get that cut just right. It’s getting late so I’m blaming it on that! ??

I’m going to work on the other side tomorrow then remove the tray one final time verify everything is welded solid then paint.

 

[bill_AUS]

Ah bugger you're probably too far down the road to change it now, but using RHS section under the floor of the tray is something that most do here, and it's a mistake. The RHS corrodes out on the flat between the tray floor and the top of the section. The high quality tray builders use flat steel, stood on its edge (like a T underneath the floor) as this provides all the structure you need to hold the floor up, and it doesn't create moisture traps for corrosion to set in.

 

[TopoRanger]

Ah bugger you're probably too far down the road to change it now, but using RHS section under the floor of the tray is something that most do here, and it's a mistake. The RHS corrodes out on the flat between the tray floor and the top of the section. The high quality tray builders use flat steel, stood on its edge (like a T underneath the floor) as this provides all the structure you need to hold the floor up, and it doesn't create moisture traps for corrosion to set in.

Thanks for the advice! I will definitely keep this in mind on the next build! This won't be the final flatbed im sure. I already have some ideas that I want to incorporate in the design that I couldn't in this. This project is definitely a learning one so Your advice will be taken!

 

[bill_AUS]

Thanks for the advice! I will definitely keep this in mind on the next build! This won't be the final flatbed im sure. I already have some ideas that I want to incorporate in the design that I couldn't in this. This project is definitely a learning one so Your advice will be taken!

No dramas!
Have you thought about how you're going to 'end' the floor. This is something else that's not easy to do without making it look messy. Most tray builders in AUS have the RHS down each side of the tray raised up by ~50mm, then roll the edge of the floor up the sides, this hides the weld (and makes it less likely to corrode). But seeing as you're not putting side gates on it, it's not going to be easy to terminate the floor neatly (the gates usually hide the welds).

 

[TopoRanger]

No dramas!
Have you thought about how you're going to 'end' the floor. This is something else that's not easy to do without making it look messy. Most tray builders in AUS have the RHS down each side of the tray raised up by ~50mm, then roll the edge of the floor up the sides, this hides the weld (and makes it less likely to corrode). But seeing as you're not putting side gates on it, it's not going to be easy to terminate the floor neatly (the gates usually hide the welds).

I am going to put drop sides on it when I am not running a canopy. My plan is to make an aluminum floor and sika it to the frame of the tray. I am going to make a perimeter piece of steel and weld it to the tray frame to capture the aluminum sheet. I wanted to run a 2"x3" piece around the edges instead of all 2x2 so I could offset the center bars like you mentioned. The local steel company didn't have 2x3 in stock so I went all 2x2.

 

[TopoRanger]

No dramas!
Have you thought about how you're going to 'end' the floor. This is something else that's not easy to do without making it look messy. Most tray builders in AUS have the RHS down each side of the tray raised up by ~50mm, then roll the edge of the floor up the sides, this hides the weld (and makes it less likely to corrode). But seeing as you're not putting side gates on it, it's not going to be easy to terminate the floor neatly (the gates usually hide the welds).

 

[OFC Ranger]

There is one side of the headboard. It took a few try’s to get that cut just right. It’s getting late so I’m blaming it on that! ??

I’m going to work on the other side tomorrow then remove the tray one final time verify everything is welded solid then paint.

Angled mating points have always given me trouble, well that and for some reason God did not gift me that ability. Oh I need to made two 45 degree cuts? Easy!

Hey wait a minute... WTF do I always end up with a widing gap on these?!?!

$#%#$^&^

 

[TopoRanger]

 

[myothercarizahearse]

that's freakin sweet! so if I didn't want mudders, drawers, and a 6" lift, how much lower could you make the flatbed? ...asking to fix my friend's bed height defect

 

[OFC Ranger]

Incredible work. Makes me feel like my fabs are still amateur hour.

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