Thank You!!! That's an awesome looking Ranger!!!Sure, here is what I chose for my Ranger. A few pics with 17×9 -12 offset before and after adding the bushwacker fender flares.
Thanks BroSure, here is what I chose for my Ranger. A few pics with 17×9 -12 offset before and after adding the bushwacker fender flares.
The RC 3 1/2" lift is the way I went. Go with the BDS intrusion bars! You won't have to cut anything.I've seen 6 in lift kits that advertised the ability to fit 35s.
Fabtech says you can fit 33s on their 3.5 inch lift that includes new crash bars. This is the lift I plan on going with.
With that said you might be able to fit 35s if you are determined enough.
I finally got my tires and wheel, but had to trimmed a lot and still rub at full lock. Do you happen to know what this plastic looking like a heat sink for on the last pic?Sure, here is what I chose for my Ranger. A few pics with 17×9 -12 offset before and after adding the bushwacker fender flares.
Hi Bladimir,What is this plastic heat sink looking thing for? What is the purpose of it? I have 295 70R17 and it's rubbing at fullock on this material. Can I remove it?
Hi Phil,
Not to overrule Phil, but these blocks are on the rear far from the head lights. Yes you have to remove these blocks in order to allow for larger tires. Sorry that's just the way it is. No need to step down to 285's. If you take your Ranger off road and compress or articulate in a big way for sure you will hit these blocks. I did a write up back in 2019 when I first got my Ranger. Here is a pic of mine removed. I did not cut the phelt splash guard. Phil is correct, leave this phelt in place. However, now that you cut yours and you remove the block ( in the rear on the cab side ) you must find a way to secure what you got. If not it will be flappen in the wind man, lol. Once I removed my rear blocks I just stretched the phelt back in place and secured it back in place with the mounting bolt I took out from the block. I use my Ranger heavily off road and they have never pulled out or come loose. Sorry Phil, love ya Man!!
Hi Stangman570,Not to overrule Phil, but these blocks are on the rear far from the head lights. Yes you have to remove these blocks in order to allow for larger tires. Sorry that's just the way it is. No need to step down to 285's. If you take your Ranger off road and compress or articulate in a big way for sure you will hit these blocks. I did a write up back in 2019 when I first got my Ranger. Here is a pic of mine removed. I did not cut the phelt splash guard. Phil is correct, leave this phelt in place. However, now that you cut yours and you remove the block ( in the rear on the cab side ) you must find a way to secure what you got. If not it will be flappen in the wind man, lol. Once I removed my rear blocks I just stretched the phelt back in place and secured it back in place with the mounting bolt I took out from the block. I use my Ranger heavily off road and they have never pulled out or come loose. Sorry Phil, love ya Man!!
No electronics behind the blocks. Just 3 bolts that mount them to the lower wall. The bolts on the outer next to the fender can be a pain, just take your time with a swivel if need be and you'll be fine. Also if you zoom in on my second pic you'll see I did have to do a small amout of trimming on the very lowest spot of the fender and the bushwacker flares that protudes into the lower part of the wheel well. This helped a ton off road under flex. Not sure about the Rihno line? No problem, glad we can help.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try to take the plastic out. I did some shaving last night. I noticed that it will rub on the front towards the fog lights housing.
Hi Stangman570,
I'm using stock and have had no binding issues.
Thanks again.
I finally got a chance to remove the plastic behind the front tires, and I'll have to trim the bottom of the fender flares as well, like you mentioned there is a bit of rubbing just the paint.
