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What did you receive in the mail today for your Ranger?

got3fords

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Hi James,

There are two different key pads Remote start and No Remote start. So far I am unsuccessful in getting my key pad to work.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
From what I have read so far, unless you want to buy the necessary software and computer stuff, the dealer needs to program it. My dealer quoted $220.
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got3fords

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Hi James,

There are two different key pads Remote start and No Remote start. So far I am unsuccessful in getting my key pad to work.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
From what I am reading so far, it is not simple like it used to be. You need software and computer stuff. My dealer quoted me $220 to install one.
 

P. A. Schilke

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From what I am reading so far, it is not simple like it used to be. You need software and computer stuff. My dealer quoted me $220 to install one.
Hi James,

For that price I will just park this key pad in the junk drawer.... Dealer quotes are all over the map from a low of $20 to program it up to over $200 like your dealer....

I thought the one for remote start did not need dealer involvement, but it appears it does... and if so I will just forget it....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

got3fords

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Hi James,

For that price I will just park this key pad in the junk drawer.... Dealer quotes are all over the map from a low of $20 to program it up to over $200 like your dealer....

I thought the one for remote start did not need dealer involvement, but it appears it does... and if so I will just forget it....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
I don't blame you. But my last car had it I REALLY miss it. So gonna fork out the dough. The price included the keypad.
 
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DukeCanBuildit

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I can finally contribute something to this thread.
Money! I see you’ve done your best to avoid issues by going with +25mm offset - good man, Bubbles. Those wheels really are nice. Pics when you’re setup please.
 

Steve23

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What about something I’m not going to receive? Was supposed to get these this weekend :( I need to call and see why it changed so late.
C7A82805-233C-4299-89F5-C4D3E9EFD20A.webp
 

Samsquanch

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Money! I see you’ve done your best to avoid issues by going with +25mm offset - good man, Bubbles. Those wheels really are nice. Pics when you’re setup please.
Thanks and good eye. They are indeed MR313 17x8.5 +25. My initial impression is the finish is very high quality and smooth. Not to mention the weight. These are crazy light wheels.

I still need to figure out if I wanna roll with 285 or be safe and go with 265. My plan for now is Fox 2.0 with c rates ko2 in either of those sizes. I think the 33s would look great I just can’t be sure I want to give up additional mpg on my daily driver.
 

FoD

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For my part, it's three bolts and done. Here's a link to their video of install in this forum...

Truth is in the forum
 

OrangeStreak

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1. A tool kit from Amazon for removing trim panels and plastic fasteners.
2. A replacement plastic fastener.

NOTE: IF YOU INSTALL AN AVS “BUGFLECTOR II”, THE HOOD LATCH WILL PROBABLY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED AFTERWARDS. IF IT NEEDS AN ADJUSTMENT, THE SHROUD THAT IS INSTALLED OVER IT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED. DON’T MAKE THIS MISTAKE BEFORE REMOVING THE SHROUD!

After I installed the AVS Bugflector II, discovered that the hood took too much pressure to close and latch because of the added thickness of the Bugflector which attaches underneath the hood. The hood latch needed to be adjusted, so I followed this excellent video which showed in the process how to correctly remove the plastic fasteners from the shroud that is installed over the hood latch. How To Adjust Hood Latch Height: 2019-2020 Ford Ranger 5th Generation - YouTube

I made the mistake of not paying close enough attention to the video and broke a plastic fastener by trying to remove it the wrong way. I tried to pry up the fastener from the base with a screwdriver without 1st getting the top portion up and busted the fastener. Couldn’t find these exact fasteners in several local auto supply stores so had to order an individual one from ebay. These are outrageously expensive even at Ford and you can only get them in a package of 4. Ford part #: W713610-S300.

These push pin plastic fasteners are properly removed by 1st inserting a narrow flathead screwdriver into the slot (see photo) between the top portion and the bottom portion of the fastener then gently prying this top portion up about 3/8" (don't force it). Then carefully use a catspaw (see in tool kit) to pry up the base of the fastener which butts up against the shroud.

It is important to mark the outline of the existing position of the hood latch mount before you loosen the screws to establish a reference point to work from. I moved the latch mount straight up all the way from its original existing position as far as it would go and this made my hood close and latch exactly right. Had a lot of fun doing this project and feel good about the outcome along with a lesson learned and the right tools for the next time :clap:

Bugflector 3.jpg


Bugflector 4.jpg


1618676715528.png


Panel removal tool (Amazon).jpg


Broken fastener on shroud.jpg


Broken fastener (closeup).jpg


New push pin fastener (closed) 1.jpg


New push pin fastener (open).jpg
 
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Hank the Tank

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Received my kinetic recovery rope and soft shackles yesterday. Attached it to the molle panel in the bed to round out my recovery gear. Also installed the manual sway bar disconnects. The truck has been on plenty of trails without this stuff, but now that camping weather is here its time to venture further.

20210417_101214.jpg


20210417_101157.jpg
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