Think I Threw a Rod....

[Sheepdog]

I'm not sure what ideal type of traction streets you ride on but braking ability in the real world is absolutely traction limited.

When? Running over oil that you should have steered around? I have been able to reach maximum braking in the rain. I have been able to reach maximum braking in below-freezing temperatures. If you're locking the front wheel up on your R3 while braking upright on pavement, then there is something wrong with your suspension, your front tire, and/or your front tire pressure. What front tire do you have? What is your cold front tire pressure? What is your fork spring rate? How much do you weigh? What is your laden sag measurement in front?

Lifting the rear wheel only limits the amount of road contact surface, and will if not done correctly, tend to bring the back of the bike sideways losing control and setting up that high side crash. Stoppies are fun to show off with but not useful in real situations.

Nobody said anything about doing stoppies- as I stated, once you are braking hard enough to have 100% on the front and 0% on the rear, you can't brake any harder- if you try, the back tire will come up, raising your center of gravity, and REDUCING your maximum braking ability.

I will continue to use the full tractive braking ability of my motorcycle as required.

Now you sound like Nigel Tufnel.

If you're braking hard enough to have 100% on the front, then you have 0% on the back. If you have 0% on the back, there IS no braking traction available from that tire. And if you do have any weight on the rear tire, then you're not really braking very hard anyway.

Oh and no one mentioned locking up the rear wheel while braking, that decreases braking ability,

If there is no weight on the rear tire, and you try to use the rear brake, it's probably gonna lock.

and the front wheel adds a gyroscopic moment as well.

The front tire is mounted to the fork, which is hinged at the steering head- the front tire alone cannot keep the motorcycle upright.

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[Sheepdog]

 

[Trigganometry]

Front brake didnt work

I see the wind is at your back, with a little help! ?

 

[Sheepdog]

Front brake didnt work

DRZ400S? WR250R?

 

[Leftcoast]

The MSF's curriculum has not kept pace with motorcycle development.

I am speaking of braking at ANY speed.

And I specified COMPETENT road motorcycles. Harley-Davidsons are not competent road motorcycles.

There you go changing the rules to match your narrative.

 

[Sheepdog]

There you go changing the rules to match your narrative.

What are you talking about?

The only rules involved here, are the physics of motorcycle riding...

 

[SymChris]

So, how about that rod throwing stuff? ?

 

[Trigganometry]

What are you talking about?

The only rules involved here, are the physics of motorcycle riding...

Think we got some thread hijackers here. How about a new thread? Eh...

 

[Leftcoast]

What are you talking about?

The only rules involved here, are the physics of motorcycle riding...

You are revealing yourself with every post. Keep peeling the onion.

 

[CB750F]

Wait, I've been ridding motorcycles for 40 yrs, how do you turn?

 

[Racket]

I recommend finding an oil that is GF-6 (usually listed on lower viscosity oils) and/or API SP (usually listed on higher viscosity oils) to protect against LSPI.

I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 that is API SP. I use the 5w-40 to help with fuel dilution as well.

53f3f71c-3b48-4343-8221-04ca6b02d1a3.pdf (shell-livedocs.com)

Your Quick Guide to the ILSAC GF-6 and API SP Motor Oil Standards. (kendallmotoroil.com)

Interesting you bring this up. I am reluctant to stray from Ford's recommend oil specifications yet the owner of UPR told me a 'heavier' oil specifically synthetic - would make my engine run smoother.

I'm a little confused ?

 

[MTB-BRUH]

67 pages... how.. ?

 

[parkranger]

looks like the top pic is the valves....and alot of debris went through the cylinder.

they didn't tear your engine down, it looks like they just ran a borescope in there

Seems fraudulent on behalf of the dealer, if that is truly the case. The OP paid (a lot of beer money) for a teardown that may never have occured.

Did they even remove the oil pan? It doesn't look that way. I would be less than thrilled about this particular dealership installing my new engine if they can not even take one apart properly.

 

[Sheepdog]

Seems fraudulent on behalf of the dealer, if that is truly the case. The OP paid (a lot of beer money) for a teardown that may never have occured.

Did they even remove the oil pan? It doesn't look that way. I would be less than thrilled about this particular dealership installing my new engine if they can not even take one apart properly.

No. He didn't pay anything- he AUTHORIZED up to $1,600 for diagnosis, which would include tear-down if necessary. Once they boroscoped the engine and saw that it was toast, there was no point in tearing it down, so neither he nor his tuner ever paid any $1,600 for tear-down. I would speculate that at the most, there would be a couple of hours of D-time flagged. 2 hours at $125/hr, would be about $250...

 

[Sheepdog]

Where are those pics from?

If there is an actual RO for the OP's engine job (or any other documentation) somewhere in these 67 pages, I'd like to see it...

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