Fuel in oil

[TORQUERULES]

Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 has helped tremendously... Find it here.

I buy one of these six packs and one single. I also use an FL-400 filter.

This oil was formulated to fight this issue as well as LSPI.

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[rangerdanger21]

Oil volume differs greatly with temperature. Room temp oil that is at the full mark on the dipstick will be well above the full mark after just a bit of running. If you really want to see if your oil level is changing, check the oil pan and block temp (since we have no oil temp gauge) with a pyrometer each time you check the oil. It's the only way to get more repeatable, useful, data. Using your nose to determine fuel in the oil is not effective, especially with modern EGR systems. Not sure if the DI intake system on the Ranger is similar to the one on my 2019 F150 3.3, but that system has an additional injector in the intake to keep the valves cleaner.

Combustion byproducts are also normal in oil, so smelling is difficult. Also, moisture from not getting fully hot will settle in the bottom of the pan, raising the oil level as well.

Not saying that there are not problems with this, but internet forums cause all kinds of hysteria. I own a 2020 Harley Street Glide. Just google "M8 sumping"....you'd think all bikes did it, when most of the time people simply did not know how to check the oil properly.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 has helped tremendously... Find it here.

I buy one of these six packs and one single. I also use an FL-400 filter.

This oil was formulated to fight this issue as well as LSPI.

There are at least a dozen alternatives to this oil that are actually better for DI engines than this one, and are significantly less expensive as well. The Penzoil oil linked only carries an API SN Plus level rating. What you want to use on any DI engine is an oil that is API SN Plus Resource Conserving. The SN Plus Resource Conserving rated oil is on par with what the European market has been using for years (GF-5 and now GF-6A ) and have not had the numerous issues with DI engines like the US market has had to endure since these engines were introduced here.

Another thing is if you do a little research on engine oil brands and you will discover that there are only couple of companies that actually produce all the various brands on the market. One of if not the biggest company being Warren Distribution who produces hundreds of different brands of oil alone. With that, all one needs to do is look for an oil regardless of brand that carries the SN Plus Resource Conserving API rating and is rated as being Dexos 1 Gen2 compliant and change it regularly based on your individual driving habits and your will be fine. For example I have used Amazon Basics oil for years first in my 08 VW GTI that I put over 140K miles on and now in the Ranger. I change the oil and filter every 3K miles in the VW and at the 100K mile mark I ran a bore scope to inspect the intake valves and found very minimal carbon deposits. Anyone who knows anything about the Mkv VW's can tell you those were notorious for having carbon build up on the valves.

Even after putting 3K miles of mixed city/highway miles using the Amazon Basics oil, I do not have any trace of gasoline smell and the level hardly changes at all. However when I had Ford change the oil at using my points with 1K miles on the clock within 500 miles of that the level had risen from the top of the hash mark to the top hole on the dipstick and a faint gas smell was present. While Ford's branded oil carries the same API Plus RC rating, it is a synthetic blend and is likely more susceptible to fuel dilution than full synthetic oil.

 

[JKocot]

 

[Hirnlego]

Even after putting 3K miles of mixed city/highway miles using the Amazon Basics oil, I do not have any trace of gasoline smell and the level hardly changes at all. However when I had Ford change the oil at using my points with 1K miles on the clock within 500 miles of that the level had risen from the top of the hash mark to the top hole on the dipstick and a faint gas smell was present. While Ford's branded oil carries the same API Plus RC rating, it is a synthetic blend and is likely more susceptible to fuel dilution than full synthetic oil.

Are you running 5W-40 or -30 in the ranger?
My first oil change on the truck was done at Ford because it was free. I don't recall the fuel smell prior to the change, thus the next time I plan to change it myself as I normally have for all my vehicles.

 

[TORQUERULES]

There are at least a dozen alternatives to this oil that are actually better for DI engines than this one, and are significantly less expensive as well. The Penzoil oil linked only carries an API SN Plus level rating. What you want to use on any DI engine is an oil that is API SN Plus Resource Conserving. The SN Plus Resource Conserving rated oil is on par with what the European market has been using for years (GF-5 and now GF-6A ) and have not had the numerous issues with DI engines like the US market has had to endure since these engines were introduced here.

Another thing is if you do a little research on engine oil brands and you will discover that there are only couple of companies that actually produce all the various brands on the market. One of if not the biggest company being Warren Distribution who produces hundreds of different brands of oil alone. With that, all one needs to do is look for an oil regardless of brand that carries the SN Plus Resource Conserving API rating and is rated as being Dexos 1 Gen2 compliant and change it regularly based on your individual driving habits and your will be fine. For example I have used Amazon Basics oil for years first in my 08 VW GTI that I put over 140K miles on and now in the Ranger. I change the oil and filter every 3K miles in the VW and at the 100K mile mark I ran a bore scope to inspect the intake valves and found very minimal carbon deposits. Anyone who knows anything about the Mkv VW's can tell you those were notorious for having carbon build up on the valves.

Even after putting 3K miles of mixed city/highway miles using the Amazon Basics oil, I do not have any trace of gasoline smell and the level hardly changes at all. However when I had Ford change the oil at using my points with 1K miles on the clock within 500 miles of that the level had risen from the top of the hash mark to the top hole on the dipstick and a faint gas smell was present. While Ford's branded oil carries the same API Plus RC rating, it is a synthetic blend and is likely more susceptible to fuel dilution than full synthetic oil.

I use what I like and change it often. F**k Blackstone, etc. People just need to quit being cheap and change their damn oil. I agree that there are probably better alternatives out there, but it has worked for years excellently in 2 Mazdaspeed 3s, other DI Skyactive Mazdas, and a turbo Mazda 6. Thanks for the info.

 

[D Fresh]

FYI,
This is my break in procedure for the first thousand miles.
Not for everyone but this is how I’ve always done it...

“Allow the engine to reach full coolant operating temperature. At this point you can now switch to running from a medium load to medium/heavy load. This can be accomplished by running the car in a higher gear (4th or higher) and at a RPM in the 2500RPM+ range. Alternate between 50% to 90% throttle and make short bursts through the RPM range up to around 5000-5500RPM”

Quote is off Livernoise dyno break in procedures...
Regards
Doc
No oil problems after 2nd Oil change ..

Did you have rising levels originally with factory fill and first oil change? Was the first change the specified synthetic blend? Did you go full synthetic @ 2nd change?


Also that break in method seems legit. I do a couple of additional things but they fall more in the "hold your tongue this way" category.

There are at least a dozen alternatives to this oil that are actually better for DI engines than this one, and are significantly less expensive as well. The Penzoil oil linked only carries an API SN Plus level rating. What you want to use on any DI engine is an oil that is API SN Plus Resource Conserving. The SN Plus Resource Conserving rated oil is on par with what the European market has been using for years (GF-5 and now GF-6A ) and have not had the numerous issues with DI engines like the US market has had to endure since these engines were introduced here.

Another thing is if you do a little research on engine oil brands and you will discover that there are only couple of companies that actually produce all the various brands on the market. One of if not the biggest company being Warren Distribution who produces hundreds of different brands of oil alone. With that, all one needs to do is look for an oil regardless of brand that carries the SN Plus Resource Conserving API rating and is rated as being Dexos 1 Gen2 compliant and change it regularly based on your individual driving habits and your will be fine. For example I have used Amazon Basics oil for years first in my 08 VW GTI that I put over 140K miles on and now in the Ranger. I change the oil and filter every 3K miles in the VW and at the 100K mile mark I ran a bore scope to inspect the intake valves and found very minimal carbon deposits. Anyone who knows anything about the Mkv VW's can tell you those were notorious for having carbon build up on the valves.

Even after putting 3K miles of mixed city/highway miles using the Amazon Basics oil, I do not have any trace of gasoline smell and the level hardly changes at all. However when I had Ford change the oil at using my points with 1K miles on the clock within 500 miles of that the level had risen from the top of the hash mark to the top hole on the dipstick and a faint gas smell was present. While Ford's branded oil carries the same API Plus RC rating, it is a synthetic blend and is likely more susceptible to fuel dilution than full synthetic oil.

I hadn't heard this about synthetic before. Makes me happy that I run full synthetic in all my vehicles.

I've been avoiding my dipstick out of the fear this thread has induced. First oil change is upcoming soon. Feeling good about my chances, I'll go full synthetic and begin more regular checks afterwards.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Are you running 5W-40 or -30 in the ranger?
My first oil change on the truck was done at Ford because it was free. I don't recall the fuel smell prior to the change, thus the next time I plan to change it myself as I normally have for all my vehicles.

I run 5w-30 in it during the winter months and switch to 5w-40 in the summer.

I use what I like and change it often. F**k Blackstone, etc. People just need to quit being cheap and change their damn oil. I agree that there are probably better alternatives out there, but it has worked for years excellently in 2 Mazdaspeed 3s, other DI Skyactive Mazdas, and a turbo Mazda 6. Thanks for the info.

I wasn't saying that there was anything wrong with the oil you use. Just that it is not specifically rated for DI engines. However, If that particular oil is working for you that's great. And I agree with you, on changing the oil regularly, especially if the majority of miles driven are in the city with frequent cold starts.

As to the oil in general was that the newer resource conserving rated oils available are formulated specifically for use in DI engines to combat fuel dilution along with many other oil related issues they had early on. For all I know the oil you use may now carry the SN+ RC certification and Amazon is using an old image for it.

 

[TORQUERULES]

I run 5w-30 in it during the winter months and switch to 5w-40 in the summer.



I wasn't saying that there was anything wrong with the oil you use. Just that it is not specifically rated for DI engines. However, If that particular oil is working for you that's great. And I agree with you, on changing the oil regularly, especially if the majority of miles driven are in the city with frequent cold starts.

As to the oil in general was that the newer resource conserving rated oils available are formulated specifically for use in DI engines to combat fuel dilution along with many other oil related issues they had early on. For all I know the oil you use may now carry the SN+ RC certification and Amazon is using an old image for it.

I think oil companies are still playing catch up with DI gas engines and their particularities, but with the big push to EV now I am afraid development will stall. I never understood peoples obsession with long oil change intervals and getting oil analyzed just to see if they could go longer. I may see the need for an analysis if you think your engine has been hurt, or see particulates during a change. Often it is just done for armchair internet jockey dick measuring.

I mean you pay more for a tank of gas than most oil changes and oil is the life-blood of your engine. Don't be cheap and change it. Sure, modern synthetics can go longer, but often longer change intervals are suggested for environmental reasons as well as planned obsolescence. The old "every 3,000 mile" interval to many may have been for the old Dino oil days, but honestly for the price compared to a fill-up, or a carton of cigarettes (I do not smoke, but good example), why not change it often? Especially in a modern turbo engine with DI.

 

[Doc]

Did you have rising levels originally with factory fill and first oil change? Was the first change the specified synthetic blend? Did you go full synthetic @ 2nd change?


Also that break in method seems legit. I do a couple of additional things but they fall more in the "hold your tongue this way" category.

I hadn't heard this about synthetic before. Makes me happy that I run full synthetic in all my vehicles.

I've been avoiding my dipstick out of the fear this thread has induced. First oil change is upcoming soon. Feeling good about my chances, I'll go full synthetic and begin more regular checks afterwards.

Never looked at rising oil levels...Broke in @ 1000 changed oil , fuel > than 2% and had it tuned...Slight high fuel level on second change @2000 miles ..break in metals present..changed again at another 2000 miles ..Perfect no metal, no fuel..
Regards
Doc
Edit: I use A Crankcase breather also ...
regular Ford 5w30 ...semi synthetic ..
should not break in engine on full synthetic ...

 

[Langwilliams]

I never understood peoples obsession with long oil change intervals and getting oil analyzed just to see if they could go longer.

I read somewhere that the Euro cars all push for extended oil change intervals. This article was about higher end cars. This article said the euro stuff has the highest level of additives for max life. It also made it sound like it was more about conserving resources than saving money.

 

[TORQUERULES]

Never looked at rising oil levels...Broke in @ 1000 changed oil , fuel > than 2% and had it tuned...Slight high fuel level on second change @2000 miles ..break in metals present..changed again at another 2000 miles ..Perfect no metal, no fuel..
Regards
Doc
Edit: I use A Crankcase breather also ...
regular Ford 5w30 ...semi synthetic ..
should not break in engine on full synthetic ...

Are you using the CFM breather or the UPR one? Or did you make your own? I used the CFM one on the my Mazdaspeeds. I like the valve built in, it works great.

 

[Doc]

Are you using the CFM breather or the UPR one? Or did you make your own? I used the CFM one on the my Mazdaspeeds. I like the valve built in, it works great.

CFM ...for 2019 mustang ..

 

[TORQUERULES]

CFM ...for 2019 mustang ..

Fantastic. Thanks, because I have been thinking of getting one. It is great on my 'Speed.

 

[createaneutron]

Never looked at rising oil levels...Broke in @ 1000 changed oil , fuel > than 2% and had it tuned...Slight high fuel level on second change @2000 miles ..break in metals present..changed again at another 2000 miles ..Perfect no metal, no fuel..
Regards
Doc
Edit: I use A Crankcase breather also ...
regular Ford 5w30 ...semi synthetic ..
should not break in engine on full synthetic ...

What is your "crankcase breather "?
Thanks!

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