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Wired up some ditch lights to my upfitter switches

Danager

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noob question... can you tie both LED Pods Hot wires together and into one end of the butt connector and the pre rigged hot from the fuse box into the other end?
So one switch wire to 2 lights essentially?
Yes
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OFC Ranger

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noob question... can you tie both LED Pods Hot wires together and into one end of the butt connector and the pre rigged hot from the fuse box into the other end?
So one switch wire to 2 lights essentially?
Yes. At the end of the day how many items you tie to one connection is simply a limit of your wire gauge and relay and/or switch capacity.

My top rack forward lights (7 total connections) converge into a junction box on my roof and then that junction merges those 7 connections down to a single 8 gauge wire. Then that wire terminates at another junction box at the rear of my truck and converts to four 12 gauge connections which then feed into 4 relays to disperse power distribution, which are then single trigger wired together to my switch panel.

Similarly my forward bumper lights (4 total connections) more or less do the same thing among 2 relays.

Now obviously my setup is a bit more on the upscale size, in the case of 2 ditch lights you would just (PROPERLY) splice 2 connections down to 1 and then that 1 connection should go to 1 relay.

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halligan1201

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What convenient places are folks who are mounting on or near bumper finding to use for the chassis ground?
 

typmoon

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What convenient places are folks who are mounting on or near bumper finding to use for the chassis ground?
I mounted the Baja Reverse light kit up to ground on the bracket itself for right now. The Ground wire isn't very long and I would of liked to have bolted it inside the tailight area but couldn't figure out how to get those bots out from where I was working.
 


LowKeyTremor

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They come factory in the Tremor package. I'm not sure how easy it can be added aftermarket.

XINKugo.webp
well done on keeping your truck clean inside! I need to get my butt out there and detail mine!

just curious, when you were deciding on which upfitter switch to use, did you do the calculation on amp draw? That’s what I did with my dual 6 inch little light bars that go in the bumper where they should already include them. Total draw calculated to 5 A, so I used auxiliary switched number six, which was 5 A. It worked perfect and kept the 25 amp switches and all of the ones capable of larger power draws available.

If you plan on adding more, I think it’s not a bad idea. Plus it’s so to just switch it over… I love how they are just blunt cut wires hanging down and you just pick which one you want and Connect!

Then ground everything and you’re done!

I couldn’t believe that it was as easy as cutting off the relay and for sure the little switch that came with the product… Did not want to have a relay upon a relay and a fuse up upon a fuse. Just wouldn’t have made sense.

Oh and I saw the pictures of the lights and they look great great job on everything
 

LowKeyTremor

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Looks great! I did ditch lights myself, also to ss6 bars in the bumper and one behind the grille. I used aux 1-3

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oh I figured I’d ask the same question to you… Did you decide on the switches based on amps for the particular fuse?
I would’ve liked to just start with number one personally, but my set up only needed 5 A, so number six kept all of the higher power options free.

I didn’t look into whether I could just swap them around… I didn’t know for sure if the actual wires were size accordingly or relays somehow…

Now the question is where the hell do I find a really nice looking tiny sticker that fits on each switch indicating what it’s for?!

I can’t believe it wasn’t as easy as typing it in. Seems like they have them for F2 50s and maybe F150… Basically the ones mounted on the headliner console.

I just don’t think they’re the same shape. Although it probably would still work
 

Fordsmt

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oh I figured I’d ask the same question to you… Did you decide on the switches based on amps for the particular fuse?
I would’ve liked to just start with number one personally, but my set up only needed 5 A, so number six kept all of the higher power options free.

I didn’t look into whether I could just swap them around… I didn’t know for sure if the actual wires were size accordingly or relays somehow…

Now the question is where the hell do I find a really nice looking tiny sticker that fits on each switch indicating what it’s for?!

I can’t believe it wasn’t as easy as typing it in. Seems like they have them for F2 50s and maybe F150… Basically the ones mounted on the headliner console.

I just don’t think they’re the same shape. Although it probably would still work
I didn’t no, I used switches 1-3, I figured I’d move them if I ever needed something with higher amps installed. I should’ve just wired them into the lower amps, I think all my lights on each switch are sub 5 amps if I remember correctly.
 

LowKeyTremor

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I didn’t no, I used switches 1-3, I figured I’d move them if I ever needed something with higher amps installed. I should’ve just wired them into the lower amps, I think all my lights on each switch are sub 5 amps if I remember correctly.
I think that’s a solid strategy because it definitely is easy to switch! I really did hate skipping over to the last switch. It just didn’t feel right.

I’ll have to debate it because I think you’ve got the right idea!
 

LowKeyTremor

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Not electrician but I do HVAC work, and get about 1 years worth of electrical schooling, so let me encourage you not to change out a fuse for a higher one.

If the wires are sized to the fuse as indicated, then you run the risk of overheating that wire, and catching ?. Just in case you wanted to check those wires, get the gauge size, and the type of wire, it may be written on the insulation, something like, THHN-8gcu.
I don’t know how automotive works their wiring. You may find this info on a schematic.
Once you find this info, compare it to a wire gauge chart from a manufacturer of wire. Many of these are found on the net.
I’ve seen the repercussions… My buddy in high school did a little self wiring job. It just so happened that he was parked at my buddy’s house, and I happen to be right out by the sidewalk when he arrived.

I’m not sure if he turned on the vehicle or off, but all I know is out of nowhere, the interior just filled with smoke, with a little bit coming out of the hood and trunk. I have to say that wiring was my first thought just because of how it looked and smelled, and then I figured out what happened.

The fuse allowed way too much power for the thin/high gauge wiring used foran amp, and the damn thing burned the entire length of the wiring insulation! Completely gone!

Lucky he didn’t start a fire! But it is definitely a danger, and a real one at that because if you add carpet and any other padding beneath… Well there’s the fuel for that electricity to spark and ignite the whole vehicle!

It was surreal and hilarious, just because it was kind of a goofy old car, but the overwhelming thought was that it was completely dangerous and avoidable!

Even without the fire, says he’s driving the interior feels with smoke and pretty much blinds to the road… Well there’s another danger.

I have never been wanting to take any sort of shortcut, and I’ll even go ahead and give myself extra capacity in terms of a lower gauge wire/set of wires , as I’d rather go for the overkill (of varying degrees depending on potential future plans), which also allow me to upgrade to something more powerful without having to rewire. That alone is worth the minimal cost.

I definitely think your point was very smart to bring up and even if it’s just a reminder, it’s just good for everybody to hear. It’s just something that can be overlooked or an honest mistake, so reiterating can keep the importance at the front of everyone’s mind!

To tell you the truth, I’d rather blow a fuse by being super cautious! But even better, just make sure the wiring is rated a decent amount beyond what is required
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