Vibration at highway speed

[Ace]

Hello everyone,

I've been diligently researching that dreadful vibration at highway speed issue that I've been experiencing going on about a year and a half now. Some of you guys maybe experiencing it as well so I want to who else out there might be going through the same issue that I am.

My Ranger is a '21 STX FX4 with a Readylift 3" level. 275/60r20 Goodyear Wranglers A/T. Fox 2.0 rear shocks and oem FX4 front shocks. 1pc Tom Wood's Driveshaft. Front diff drop kit is also installed.

I've read quite a few threads regarding the matter:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/driveline-vibration.26655/#post-638777

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/one-piece-driveshaft.21381/

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/shudder-shake-and-shimmy.25260/

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/it’s-done-one-piece-driveshaft.15531/

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/diff-drop-anybody-here-do-one.15463/

Most of all seems to be pointing at tire balance issue and driveshaft. Others have suggest alignment and I've read that a differential drop may also help.

Well, I've pretty much done all of that. After going through 2 sets of tires and wheels. Purchasing a lifetime balance/rotate from Discount Tire. Purchasing a lifetime wheel alignment from Firestone. Going through a local specialty tire shop to road force the tires numerous times. Replacing the oem driveshaft to the Tom Wood's 1 PC shaft. Installing a front differential drop kit. Nothing seems to help. I have dropped of my truck to the dealership I purchased it from yesterday in hopes they can help diagnose the issue. I'm really hoping they won't come back to me and say that it's due to the modifications which I have a feeling that that's what they might say. But I'm trying to be optimistic and in hopes that they are willing to work with me. I have a pretty good relationship with the dealership so I'm crossing my fingers.

Anyone else going through the same thing? If so, what have you done to try to fix the issue?

Ace

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[Rocketeer61]

I had the same problem. Went to the dealer numerous times, had the wheels rotated and rebalanced several times, had a Tech ride around with me, etc. etc. He told me that it might be wind interacting with the truck. I finally got rid of the factory tires-don't remember what they were now, maybe Bridgestone-and the vibration disappeared.

 

[chrisakz]

Did this only begin after you started modifications?

 

[OregonRangerTremor]

Did this only begin after you started modifications?

My thought exactly. Were there vibrations with the factory setup? Some make these modifications and lets face it...we are not engineers. The original OP has made numerous modifications that may be causing the issue because the modifications are not "in sync" with each other. My next question for the OP; Did you make the modifications one at a time, test drive the vehicle in between each modification, before the next? Or all of these mods at once or in groups? By a process of elimination, you could figure out which modification (or combination of) is causing the issue. My first answer would have been balancing and alignment but you have done that.

 

[Ace]

Did this only begin after you started modifications?

I've had the modifications done give or take a couple of years back. I few months after I purchased the vehicle. No issues driving it for about a year. It's just gotten progressively worse about a year ago. The last year and a half, I've replaced tires and wheels twice and the last attempt to try to "fix" the issue was the Tom Wood's 1 PC driveshaft.

 

[Ace]

My thought exactly. Were there vibrations with the factory setup? Some make these modifications and lets face it...we are not engineers. The original OP has made numerous modifications that may be causing the issue because the modifications are not "in sync" with each other. My next question for the OP; Did you make the modifications one at a time, test drive the vehicle in between each modification, before the next? Or all of these mods at once or in groups? By a process of elimination, you could figure out which modification (or combination of) is causing the issue. My first answer would have been balancing and alignment but you have done that.

I've had the modifications done give or take a couple of years back. I few months after I purchased the vehicle. No issues driving it for about a year. It's just gotten progressively worse about a year ago. The last year and a half, I've replaced tires and wheels twice and the last attempt to try to "fix" the issue was the Tom Wood's 1 PC driveshaft.

 

[OregonRangerTremor]

I've had the modifications done give or take a couple of years back. I few months after I purchased the vehicle. No issues driving it for about a year. It's just gotten progressively worse about a year ago. The last year and a half, I've replaced tires and wheels twice and the last attempt to try to "fix" the issue was the Tom Wood's 1 PC driveshaft.

This is just a thought since it sounds like it started occurring after new wheels were installed. Did they use the proper lug nuts?! Lug nuts come in different sizes and lengths, thread pattern but also the bases are different. Some are rounded, cone shaped, etc. If they used lug nuts with a rounded base on a conical required wheel....the wheel would not be tight and could wobble. Example: I have a Mercedes Sprinter Van with aftermarket wheels. It is a dually. The aftermarket lug nuts that fit the aftermarket wheels match. But, my spare is a dually wheel spare so that it can be used anywhere. It is a Mercedes wheel. So...if I use the spare wheel I cannot use the aftermarket lug nuts. I have the lug nuts specifically for that wheel. The bases of the lug nuts are different. THIS IS ONE THING TO CHECK. Do your lug nuts match your wheel?

Another thing to check: The hub size vs. the bore size in the wheel. Are they the same? If not....the wheel is not resting on the axle hub and is only held in place with the lug nuts. There would be "play" between the axle hub and the wheel. In a strike to the tire and wheel...lug bolts can be bent ot even broken. This is common with aftermarket wheels that the bore hole in the wheel is larger than the axle hub. In that case the tire shop should install hubcentric rings to the axle hub and then the wheel. The hubcentric ring takes up that extra space. I had to add these to my Bronco, my F150, my wife's Ford van. It is common practice. If you do not have those and the hub and bore are different...I could see this causing vibration as well.
BOTH OF THESE WOULD BE CHEAP FIXES.
Just thinking.....

 

[Ace]

This is just a thought since it sounds like it started occurring after new wheels were installed. Did they use the proper lug nuts?! Lug nuts come in different sizes and lengths, thread pattern but also the bases are different. Some are rounded, cone shaped, etc. If they used lug nuts with a rounded base on a conical required wheel....the wheel would not be tight and could wobble. Example: I have a Mercedes Sprinter Van with aftermarket wheels. It is a dually. The aftermarket lug nuts that fit the aftermarket wheels match. But, my spare is a dually wheel spare so that it can be used anywhere. It is a Mercedes wheel. So...if I use the spare wheel I cannot use the aftermarket lug nuts. I have the lug nuts specifically for that wheel. The bases of the lug nuts are different. THIS IS ONE THING TO CHECK. Do your lug nuts match your wheel?

Another thing to check: The hub size vs. the bore size in the wheel. Are they the same? If not....the wheel is not resting on the axle hub and is only held in place with the lug nuts. There would be "play" between the axle hub and the wheel. In a strike to the tire and wheel...lug bolts can be bent ot even broken. This is common with aftermarket wheels that the bore hole in the wheel is larger than the axle hub. In that case the tire shop should install hubcentric rings to the axle hub and then the wheel. The hubcentric ring takes up that extra space. I had to add these to my Bronco, my F150, my wife's Ford van. It is common practice. If you do not have those and the hub and bore are different...I could see this causing vibration as well.
BOTH OF THESE WOULD BE CHEAP FIXES.
Just thinking.....

I thought about that also. The first set of wheels were not hub centric wheels but it came with a specific hub centric rings for different applications. This is why I purchsed the second set of wheels. The second set of wheels are hub centric for our application and I also purchased the conical type lug nuts that the manufacturer of the wheels recommend. And these set of wheels were mounted on a new set of Goodyear Wranglers. Vibration still there.

 

[OregonRangerTremor]

I thought about that also. The first set of wheels were not hub centric wheels but it came with a specific hub centric rings for different applications. This is why I purchsed the second set of wheels. The second set of wheels are hub centric for our application and I also purchased the conical type lug nuts that the manufacturer of the wheels recommend. And these set of wheels were mounted on a new set of Goodyear Wranglers. Vibration still there.

Well...at least you are on top of things and ruling things out. Have you had a "second opinion" a different tire-wheel shop check for balancing and proper mounting? I am sure you are frustrated...hope you figure it out.

 

[Ace]

Well...at least you are on top of things and ruling things out. Have you had a "second opinion" a different tire-wheel shop check for balancing and proper mounting? I am sure you are frustrated...hope you figure it out.

I have. From the dealership, to discount tire, to an off road specialty shop...

Thanks, I hope so too

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

With all of the lift work you've done - CV joints come to mind as a potential source of vibration. Have you inspected yours? Did you replace those with the lift work or use the stock ones?

 

[Ace]

With all of the lift work you've done - CV joints come to mind as a potential source of vibration. Have you inspected yours? Did you replace those with the lift work or use the stock ones?

Its a 3" level kit. I thought about that as well that's why I installed a differential drop to get the CV angles back to stock angle. It is still the stock CV.

 

[airline tech]

Being that you have touched on various changes to isolate the issue and it is still present. Then I would also lead toward the CV Shafts (Mainly Inner-Joint)
If it was driven at an improper angle and then go back and diff drop at a later date.
The damage was already done to the inner joint.

 

[Msfitoy]

I thought about that also. The first set of wheels were not hub centric wheels but it came with a specific hub centric rings for different applications. This is why I purchsed the second set of wheels. The second set of wheels are hub centric for our application and I also purchased the conical type lug nuts that the manufacturer of the wheels recommend. And these set of wheels were mounted on a new set of Goodyear Wranglers. Vibration still there.

117K miles without a hub centric ring...6 lug wheels when mounted correctly don't need this...

 

[Ace]

Being that you have touched on various changes to isolate the issue and it is still present. Then I would also lead toward the CV Shafts (Mainly Inner-Joint)
If it was driven at an improper angle and then go back and diff drop at a later date.
The damage was already done to the inner joint.

That is actually what I'm leading towards to as well.

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