Anyone changed oil line filter to our little turbo's?

[dtech]

I've seen partial blockage on oil return lines on >150k miles Saab turbos and have heard of folks replacing a turbo and neglecting to inspect and if necessary replace the return line and suffer another turbo failure. I would think blockage on the supply line if proper maintenance is done to be far less of a concern, I'm not making any plans to mess with it

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[ranger_n_danger]

Hello all,

I read somewhere that Ford recommends changing the filter screen in the oil line delivering oil to
the turbo's at 30.000 miles??
Has anyone else seen this or heard of this or has done this procedure?
Just trying to learn more about it.

Thanks
S Lee
23 Ranger FX4

I saw this YouTube video and a case was made for changing the Turbo oil inket filter.

 

[Cabose-1]

I would give these ai videos a giant giant grain of salt. Lake speed does great scientific analysis. Moral of the story do maintenance as vehicle use goes. I am off road a lot so ill probably change the front end sooner than later. So.....do what you think you need to do.

 

[TJC]

I've seen partial blockage on oil return lines on >150k miles Saab turbos and have heard of folks replacing a turbo and neglecting to inspect and if necessary replace the return line and suffer another turbo failure. I would think blockage on the supply line if proper maintenance is done to be far less of a concern, I'm not making any plans to mess with it

We had the same problem on our turboed Miatas.... coked up oil supply and return lines... but the issue was far worse on supply side. Note that these are aftermarket kits.

 

[Cowboyflyer]

Yes sir! I think that is it. My memory is bad, I knew I see it or read it somewhere.!

 

[Dereku]

His tush puckers up and his sticker goes limp ??????????

I feel the same way in prison showers too.

 

[JACER]

I've not seen this mentioned before, but has any one inspected the Turbo Oil Inlet Screen & replaced it.

I've seen it as part of a Ford mx video on You Tube.

 

[twk]

There is at least this one thread on the subject.
For some reason I bookmarked it, and now I don't know why. I seem to do that a lot lately.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/anyone-changed-oil-line-filter-to-our-little-turbos.42327/

 

[Grandaccess]

LOL and here we are again, yous guys spend way to much time thinking about oil topics?

 

[Stevedbvik1]

LOL and here we are again, yous guys spend way to much time thinking about oil topics?

That and waiting for test results

 

[TJC]

Use Valvoline 5w30 Restore and Protect. I've moved to it in all my vehicles. It eliminates the buildup, esp the Turbo supply and drain lines, as well as piston rings, and other internal parts. The oil people I trust say it works! And I believe them.

 

[Grandaccess]

On paper it does not look bad, I would need to actually look at it.
The manuals do call out removing the return tube first for easier access, this can and will most likely create issues for some - due to the way it mounts (surface mount-seal)
So, if one were to replace the supply filter, attempt to bypass removing the return line as it may provide a leak issue.

I am curious what a filter looks like with say 75k to 100k miles on it - this may reveal if this filter actually builds up debris as this is a - Secondary Filter

I will let you know when I change the oil at 100K no I didnt get around to doing it at 50K yet LOL and he hasnt sent me the results from the test, I assumed if it was bad results I would have gotten a call
I do change the main filter every 25K its a cheap thrill

 

[Grandaccess]

I've seen partial blockage on oil return lines on >150k miles Saab turbos and have heard of folks replacing a turbo and neglecting to inspect and if necessary replace the return line and suffer another turbo failure. I would think blockage on the supply line if proper maintenance is done to be far less of a concern, I'm not making any plans to mess with it

Is it not cheaper to replace the Turbo every 100k than the oil every 3k?

 

[Grandaccess]

$1.30 plus $12 S&H

 

[fusseli]

$1.30 plus $12 S&H

I looked up the whole line (~$30) a while back for this very purpose

Shop manual says they are disposable BTW! The procedure *looks* pretty easy, just have to remove the engine cover and wheel & fender liner, then air intake and air inlet pipe to get to it.

Carefully use a nylon brush to remove the old O-ring residue, use brake cleaner to rinse the O-ring residue out of the turbocharger and engine O-ring bores. Inspect the area for deep scratches and gouges. Install new components if needed. Material: Motorcraft® Brake Parts Cleaner - VOC Compliant / Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner / PM4A, PM4B

Install and fully seat the turbocharger oil supply tube, then install and tighten the bolts.

Torque: 8 lb.ft (11 Nm)


Install the turbocharger heat shield, then install and tighten the lower bolt and the upper nuts.

Nuts

Torque: 39 lb.ft (53 Nm)

Bolt

Torque: 8 lb.ft (11 Nm)

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