Tie downs

P. A. Schilke

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Yes,I vaguely remember it too. I thought there were no reinforcements behind them and I wouldn't trust anything with any weight being tied to them. I'd hate to see you get out of your truck and see 2 large holes in the bed sides. :crying:

Those bed rail clamps look like a good alternative as the fold down and out of the way when not in use and at least you have the rail for support. Worse case they fall off but at least you won't be doing and damage to the side of the bed wall.
Hi Folks,

If these tiedowns are backed by the plate behind the sheetmetal, they will take a pretty good load axially, in other words straight out. However if there is any angularity to the load, the strength is more of a tearing of the sheet metal. Should be good for bungee cord loads like securing a tarp for example. I would personally use the bed rail clamps of the tonneau cover as the pinchweld flange is much stronger, but the OEM tiedowns are probably the best.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
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DHMag

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My multiple follow up emails to Steve at Bull Ring was always, "were working in it next week". That was nearly 4 months ago.
 

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I ordered 2 more of the deezee ones, I only had 2. Like I stated before, for heavy stuff I plan to use the OEM tie downs and these for other light to medium duty for which they will work just fine.
 

P. A. Schilke

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I ordered 2 more of the deezee ones, I only had 2. Like I stated before, for heavy stuff I plan to use the OEM tie downs and these for other light to medium duty for which they will work just fine.
Hi Joe,

Not sure I would trust for medium duty...Steel remembers when you hurt it and It can only take so much hurt before it gives up. If you have a load shift you can over stress the sheetmetal do that a few times and it likely results in a crack. However, medium is a relative term...my definition might be many lbs less than yours or vice a versa.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 


Mellow

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Hi Joe,

Not sure I would trust for medium duty...Steel remembers when you hurt it and It can only take so much hurt before it gives up. If you have a load shift you can over stress the sheetmetal do that a few times and it likely results in a crack. However, medium is a relative term...my definition might be many lbs less than yours or vice a versa.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
My definitions...
light duty - string or paracord
medium duty - bungee cords
heavy duty - ratchet straps, cables, chains..

So, for me, these will work just fine. I like their position for maybe just something to keep things from flying out of the bed.. so a net or tarp.. etc..
 

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Michael Bailey

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These will work but you'll have to grind down part of the shoulder... Also, since there is not real structure they attach to, other than the bed steel, you want to be careful what you attach to them... only use the oem tie downs for something you need to cinch down securely...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JL42L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

81ry8XUBZiL._SL1500_.jpg

61RRN7Z9zsL._SL1500_.jpg
You say, "you have to grind down part of the shoulder", can you tell us what part of the shoulder, exactly? I am trying to visualize this before I order them.
 

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You say, "you have to grind down part of the shoulder", can you tell us what part of the shoulder, exactly? I am trying to visualize this before I order them.
Look back at post #10,it shows where he hand filed the edges.
 

idesi1

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433C13A7-392B-4390-9AB7-EB6318720B6F.jpeg
I would like to ask if the areas marked in my pics are ment for tie down hooks or something else. Excuse my lack of knowledge as I am first time pick up owner.
 

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The tailgate side - the upper and middle ones are used for the cargo bed extender. All 3 might be used for the swing cases.
 

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I would like to ask if the areas marked in my pics are ment for tie down hooks or something else. Excuse my lack of knowledge as I am first time pick up owner.
From what i've heard, in the first image those two threaded holes are for mounting that front tiedown up higher. Other two points seem to just be punched holes in the sheetmetal without reinforcement (but i havent looked at these myself).

Last image, the lower-left one is what we have been talking a bit about for tiedowns. The hole is just unreinforced sheet metal and only suitable for light-duty stuff. upper ones look to be the same case.
 

Noseoil

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BedRail.JPG
Probably the strongest attachment point at the top, would be to mount a tie-down inside the top rail, in the "upside down" position. Tried to find a sectional view of the top bed area, but didn't see any pictures online. The top of the bed is formed steel, with the inside being the bed sides & the outside being the top of the fender, forming the top flange of the rail in an upside down "U" shaped member.

You could make spacer blocks to let the loop stick down below the inside-bottom edge of the flange (a handy "saw" with a sharp edges for a rope if there aren't any spacers). Carriage bolts fastened down from the top hold the block in place & attach the loop with lock nuts. It would be out of the way enough not to snag on the load, but there would still be a "weak spot" in the sheet metal with too much loading from the side if it's cinched down too tight. A longer reinforcement plate would help, like an inner liner of 1/4" material under the top flange, but it's getting pretty deep now, for a couple of hard points to tie a load near the top of the bed. I guess if you have nothing better to do...
 

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I installed these and agree with above; do not use these for anything heavy. These merely pinch about 1/4" of sheet metal on each side. If they rip out, the body-work repair might be messy.
 

Stevie Gee

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I did
These will work but you'll have to grind down part of the shoulder... Also, since there is not real structure they attach to, other than the bed steel, you want to be careful what you attach to them... only use the oem tie downs for something you need to cinch down securely...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JL42L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

81ry8XUBZiL._SL1500_.jpg

61RRN7Z9zsL._SL1500_.jpg
I did a set of 4; 2 on each side in the existing holes. I had to saw and grind down the backs to 1/2 of what they were, in order to fit. With a real grinder and/or vice it can be done in 5 minutes...took me 2 hours with a hacksaw blade and light duty Dremel-type tool. :curse::explode::facepalm:
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