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Thoughts on buying a super high mileage Ranger

D K

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Hello

Any thoughts on buying a '19 base, 155K mile Ranger for around 10k?

Truck is pretty rough. You can tell its 'worn out' but mechanically, it seems ok. Interior is particularly crap with seats torn etc. Also, the dash is as basic as they come. I really wanted a Tremor, but with it being this cheap, I can do my own lockers and aux switches.

Question is, does it make any sense buying something with this many miles? Is there any way to 'add' drive modes later? Are they already in the PCM that just need to be 'unlocked' with Forscan?

If this deal does go through, I am considering offering 'cheap' CDF drum replacements if there is enough interest in the community.

Any help is appreciated

*EDIT*

Thanks to some of the responses on this thread and this forum in general, I have found so far:
1. Adding Terrain Modes is very easy to do
2. Adding AUX switches is very easy to do
3. Swapping out the screen for something bigger is fairly easy to do
4. Adding a brake controller is relatively straight forward as well
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AzScorpion

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Personally I wouldn't and it's not all because of the high mileage. It's because you said it looks worn out and the interior is crap. My feeling is if they didn't take the time to at least take care of the things you see, that means they probably didn't maintain it well either. You'd most likely be opening up a can of worms that'll bring you down a rabbit hole of expensive repairs. I'd keep looking for something you really like and that has some service records if possible.
 
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D K

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I mean its not 'that' bad. I was probably overly critical describing it but its def not new..

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Its really that its very plasticky and the driver's seat is really worn

Personally I wouldn't and it's not all because of the high mileage. It's because you said it looks worn out and the interior is crap. My feeling is if they didn't take the time to at least take care of the things you see, that means they probably didn't maintain it well either. You'd most likely be opening up a can of worms that'll bring you down a rabbit hole of expensive repairs. I'd keep looking for something you really like and that has some service records if possible.
 

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If you are looking for a project truck, enjoy the work, why not. For me, not with a 10 foot pole, reasons AZ stated, and I haven't bought a beat up interior since I was 20 something. I deserve better. (haven't flipped a car since then either)
 

AzScorpion

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I mean its not 'that' bad. I was probably overly critical describing it but its def not new..

1772914221456-s6.webp

1772914275503-ou.webp

Its really that its very plasticky and the driver's seat is really worn
Ok, that's not as bad as I pictured it, I was picturing it way more beat up than that and having cracks on the dashboard. lol The worn seat bolster is pretty normal wear and tear and wouldn't worry about that at all. With your occupational background it looks like you could really go over it thoroughly and I'd also check the Carfax. $10K doesn't seem that bad of a price but if you're really wanting Tremor just make sure you'll be happy with this one. I know myself that when I have my heart set on something and then buy something different I usually regret it later on. But only you know if this one will satisfy your needs or will holding out for a Tremor satisfy you more?
 


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D K

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Very good points. As before.

I would love a Tremor, but if there was a way to 'add' the drive modes, I would be even more happy with that.
My main reason is that I want to put a limited slip or a posi in the back as opposed to an e locker. Reasoning being that I hate the feeling of a open differential. I have an e locker on my Jeep and I am not a fan of it. A limited slip would be much better in my opinion, only question mark is: is there an lsd in existance that is strong enough to lock 33'35" tires? If so, then its a no brainer.
For the front, I want to add an e locker as the front needs to be open most of the time. A helical 'could' work but the problem is it makes steering feel weird and more importantly, if one wheel is in the air, then its almost like an open diff.

For the interior, I would probably replace the steering wheel with a Lariat one and probably swap out the seats as well.

It's the screen that's giving me the most headache. I've gotten spoiled by having big screens lol

Ok, that's not as bad as I pictured it, I was picturing it way more beat up than that and having cracks on the dashboard. lol The worn seat bolster is pretty normal wear and tear and wouldn't worry about that at all. With your occupational background it looks like you could really go over it thoroughly and I'd also check the Carfax. $10K doesn't seem that bad of a price but if you're really wanting Tremor just make sure you'll be happy with this one. I know myself that when I have my heart set on something and then buy something different I usually regret it later on. But only you know if this one will satisfy your needs or will holding out for a Tremor satisfy you more?
 
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D K

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I mean, I don't expect it to be free..

I also plan on re gearing, so that's why I have been toying around the idea of a high mileage unit.

Also, I am expecting the transmission to go out, so I already have a new CDF drum.

If you want to replace the rear diff, you are looking at lots of time and money.
 

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If maintained properly and not abused yes. With the exception of the 10r80 tranny. 160k miles was my goal but I lost faith approaching the end of my 7 year extended warranty. I think the truck otherwise is solid. I would have dealt with the tranny issue if Ford had a solid answer to adressing it. Hopefully newer( after 2019) have addressed the shortcomings. I have a 2025 Raptor which has an improved/ strenthened drum. Time will tell.

OP When buying a older vehicle if it looks neglected, it probably was. Avoid!
 

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Drive modes are super easy to install. Forescan to activate it and a new 4wd selector with the center button. Boom. But I would not touch it. I dont trust others because of how anal I am with mechanical maintenance. Im like that 303 guy but with the expensive bits no one sees.
 
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D K

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I saw that as well. So are installing aux switches and brake controller.

Drive modes are super easy to install. Forescan to activate it and a new 4wd selector with the center button. Boom. But I would not touch it. I dont trust others because of how anal I am with mechanical maintenance. Im like that 303 guy but with the expensive bits no one sees.
 
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D K

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The biggest culprit is the 150K mile service recommendation interval. I would plan on doing mine every 30K.
Also, as I understand it, if you preemptively address the issue, it improves odds by a huge margin.
The drum itself is super cheap.
If you get to it before the bad symptoms start, you are way better off.
In any case, I would do my own drum replacement, it looks very straight forward.

Transmission is on borrowed time.

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Racket

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No warranty constraints is nice, if you can afford a hobby project - potential engine, likely transmission rebuild and all the suspension work why not.

If you need a reliable daily driver then it's the wrong purchase.

I do think we'll see a lot of these posts.
 
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D K

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With it being so cheap, it makes it more manageable. I would think the engine would last a good while longer - I might do the timing chain guides preventatively, do a leakdown test and send the oil sample to the lab.
For transmission, I already have the CDF hub, I would see what happens after I service the trans. If it doesnt shift funny (it didnt on the test drives), it might be ok. The idea that the fluid should be changed at 150K miles is completely ridiculous in my mind.
However, I understand why the transmission does what it does and if it's ok at 150k, it means that it wasn't the worst of the bunch.

No warranty constraints is nice, if you can afford a hobby project - potential engine, likely transmission rebuild and all the suspension work why not.

If you need a reliable daily driver then it's the wrong purchase.

I do think we'll see a lot of these posts.
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