Target towing weight

[Frenchy]

I will have to disagree with this advice. While it is technically correct, it is impossible to follow. The OP is looking for a trailer to buy. There is simply no way to load up a trailer one does not have and weigh it. This is one of the reasons for these fudge factors. You need to buy a trailer that is light enough so after you load it up you won't be over the tow weight limit.

The other reason for fudge factors is the driving experience. A truck that is pulling its max weight is not going to be fun to drive. That is one reason OTR truck drivers get paid to drive. (The other is the tight schedules they have to make.) You don't want to be driving a truck that is stressful to drive when you are on vacation.

I see this so many times on RV sites. Someone asks how much trailer can he buy, and someone else will reply "weigh it on a CAT scales when fully loaded". You just can't load up a trailer you don't have and weigh it. That would be like test driving your new truck design before you build it...

And perhaps you havent vonsidered the fact of the gross weight of a trailer? As long as that wont exceed the amount certified for the tow vehicle and if the person does not overload the trailer(easy to do) and load it correctly they will be fine

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[oldnslow]

And perhaps you havent vonsidered the fact of the gross weight of a trailer? As long as that wont exceed the amount certified for the tow vehicle and if the person does not overload the trailer(easy to do) and load it correctly they will be fine

You have a good point. But my experience is that most people that post on the internet go by the dry weight, even though its a mostly useless number.

Even using the gross weight number, that leaves the drivability to consider. Personally I think the drivability is the biggest issue, because I like to drive and I like it to be enjoyable.

 

[Frenchy]

You have a good point. But my experience is that most people that post on the internet go by the dry weight, even though its a mostly useless number.

Even using the gross weight number, that leaves the drivability to consider. Personally I think the drivability is the biggest issue, because I like to drive and I like it to be enjoyable.

Well since the Ranger is rated for up to 7500 lbs(depending on equipment) the Ranger will do just fine up to 7500 lbs

 

[LostMy65]

Hi NZ,

The weigh you can safely tow is 7500 as stated in your owner's manual. Not a fudge factor percentage reduction. We test at this weight and over a bit to ensure our numbers. A percentage reduction is pure BS.

That said above, you need to understand that you must factor in your loading into the RV you choose. Most folks overload the RV from the Get Go. Take your RV, fully loaded to the local Truck Stop CAT Scales and weigh it. If you find like many folks that you are above 7500...then you need to assess what to remove to achieve this weight and reweigh at the scales. Then you are not guessing you are okay.... Screw the fudge factors that many websites recommend.... Just weigh the RV as you hope to use it.... Knowledge is King here....

Best,
Phil

I think of your point of fluff factor that goes into the load capacity in calculating a structural beam.
If they say it can handle a uniform load of 20,000 pounds, it has a fluff factor calculated in so it could handle even more before it would fail.

 

[JohnnyO]

Thanks for the no BS answer. I appreciate to hear the diligence that Ford put into determining these numbers!

It sounds to me to work backwards. Stat with human weight, plus anything I expect in the cab. Then see what is left for the trailer respecting the tongue limits.

Thanks

My opinion is 80% of maximum, so 6000 lb. Frontal area of the trailer matters too for wind resistance, I think that number is in the owner's manual. I do not have a trailer, yet, but I know how much stuff I take tenting and also how much we pack in my bud's Class A RV with 4-6 of us going to NASCAR races. I'd have 1000 lb. just in beer, plus water, food, gas, clothes, and extra beer.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I will have to disagree with this advice. While it is technically correct, it is impossible to follow. The OP is looking for a trailer to buy. There is simply no way to load up a trailer one does not have and weigh it. This is one of the reasons for these fudge factors. You need to buy a trailer that is light enough so after you load it up you won't be over the tow weight limit.

The other reason for fudge factors is the driving experience. A truck that is pulling its max weight is not going to be fun to drive. That is one reason OTR truck drivers get paid to drive. (The other is the tight schedules they have to make.) You don't want to be driving a truck that is stressful to drive when you are on vacation.

I see this so many times on RV sites. Someone asks how much trailer can he buy, and someone else will reply "weigh it on a CAT scales when fully loaded". You just can't load up a trailer you don't have and weigh it. That would be like test driving your new truck design before you build it...

Hi Ken,

Thanks for sharing another opinion... I still stand by my advice but OP now has a different opinion for which

I think of your point of fluff factor that goes into the load capacity in calculating a structural beam.
If they say it can handle a uniform load of 20,000 pounds, it has a fluff factor calculated in so it could handle even more before it would fail.

Hi Robert,

What you are implying is exactly what we do...We test at a weight a significant (Proprietary) above the published weights or in the design stage factors of safety way above what the vehicle will experience in the real world. So with respect to towing...Ford tests at weights above what we publish, so this is why I say bs to a fudge factor of any kind...we already factored this in in design and testing.

Ken makes a good point when you do not have an RV ... Hard to weigh fully loaded when you do not have an RV into which to put the "load". His point is valid and with Sales staff willing to sell you what you want without much regard to specifications... OP is on his own to make the intelligent decisions on towing size, weight etc.

Best,
Phil

 

[JeffB]

Is the 7500 pounds with the trailer towing package only? What will it haul if you just use the bumper attached to the frame as is? 2022 Ranger.

 

[Peragrin]

I've been trying to make heads and tails of all the existing threads to come to some conclusion.

Your numbers are where I am starting at. Mostly giving the space for additional gear and human weight.

@P. A. Schilke s solution is the only way to have confidence.

There is 2 loaded numbers with lots of variables and few good answers.

you have tow rating, and load capactiy. you put yourself, your wife 2 kids, plus a couple of bikes, maybe some toys int he bed of the truck and that 750# hitch rating better be closer to 600 pounds

Right now towing a Rockwood roo 233s, 25' long 5,000#'s empty. 8' wide. Tows no problem. but I also watch the weight. keep the tanks empty so (little to no boondocking), etc.

I have a wife and 2 toddlers. out of 5 trips this year, 3 my wife and kids drove separately. 2 we rode together.


Your best goal is to keep the empty trailer weight under 5500#'s and to keep the hitch weight as low as possible. That gives you plenty of room for clothes, food, and other gear. Remember max hitch weight is 750#'s which is a lot easier to hit when you start with a 50# WDH. and a 550# trailer.

 

[nubzilla]

I think some of the confusion is from the phrasing of my question, my apologies . I have no doubt the engineers at Ford came to this number carefully and backed my models and testing.

Everyone's comments have been very helpful and I think the best way to approach a final number is to work backwards.

1. Take the truck max payload capacity and see how much that will cut into your max tongue weight.
Example: Payload capacity - (human weight + things in the cab you need + things you plan to put in the bed) = available tongue weight. Take this or 750lbs, which ever is smaller.

2. Take the the tongue weight from step 1 and compare that to the trailers GVWR. My reading says 10% to 15% of the trailer should be on the tongue so (tongue weight / .10) > trailer GVWR.
Example Say I only have 600lbs of payload remaining, staying on the safe side 15% on tongue means I should keep GVWR under 600 / .15 = 4000lbs

Assuming the trailer GVWR isn't exceeded, this setup should be safe to drive.

Also consider truck GCWR, which I don't think should be exceeded following this process, but we should be diligent to verify.

Thoughts?

 

[nubzilla]

Is the 7500 pounds with the trailer towing package only? What will it haul if you just use the bumper attached to the frame as is? 2022 Ranger.

According to my owners manual, the bumper hitch limit is 3,500 lbs with trailer brakes. Otherwise 1,650lbs.

7,500lbs is unlocked with the heavier trailer hitch + trailer brakes.

 

[THLONE]

Most people who pull right up to the max or over travel trailers if their honest say that they drive 60 or 65 mph. That means that the semi's will blast by you going 80 mph. The side blast from them is no fun. Add in bad roads, curves, mountains, well a word to the wise should be sufficient.

 

[Grumpaw]

Is the 7500 pounds with the trailer towing package only? What will it haul if you just use the bumper attached to the frame as is? 2022 Ranger.

Using the bumper/ball, your limited to a 3500 lb trailer weight and a 350 lb tongue weight.
However, the bumper on the Ranger's is so high as to make towing with a bumper ball unsuitable.
Your trailers tongue will be elevated to the point that you will be transferring a lot of weight toward the rear of whatever trailer/load your towing. Additionally, there is no way add a drop type hitch to the bumper to lower the ball.
You need a receiver type hitch platform, and even then you will probably need a drop hitch shank to lower the ball to the correct height, depending on your trailer.

 

[JeffB]

Using the bumper/ball, your limited to a 3500 lb trailer weight and a 350 lb tongue weight.
However, the bumper on the Ranger's is so high as to make towing with a bumper ball unsuitable.
Your trailers tongue will be elevated to the point that you will be transferring a lot of weight toward the rear of whatever trailer/load your towing. Additionally, there is no way add a drop type hitch to the bumper to lower the ball.
You need a receiver type hitch platform, and even then you will probably need a drop hitch shank to lower the ball to the correct height, depending on your trailer.

What does a person need to do if they want to tow a trailer? What is needed?

 

[Grumpaw]

What does a person need to do if they want to tow a trailer? What is needed?

First, it depends on the trailer you want to tow. If it's just a flatbed cargo trailer with a mower, or bike, ect, that is light weight, you need the hitch platform, correct shank and ball, and a 4 wire plug.
Light weight utility trailer, in most cases/states, dosen't require brakes.
Anything heavier will require a brake controller and 7 pin wire harness.
There is NO difference in the truck itself as to towing the 7500 lbs, other than the hitch type, a class 3 platform hitch, and the added 7 pin wire plug.
Trucks are the same...no difference in engine, trans, axle, ect.
Even trucks without the tow package have a tow/haul button on the console in front of the shifter.
To tow the 7500 lb weight, or really, for any significant weight trailer, you need a class 3 hitch platform and the appropriate shank and ball, and the wiring harness that is appropriate for your trailer.
Additionally you will need a brake controller to tow any trailer equipped with brakes (other than a trailer equipped with surge brakes).
Got to ETrailer web site, enter truck info, and you will see whats available for the Ranger, and whats needed. Probably the best web site for trailer/hitch products and info.

 

[Fordup]

Remember the trailer dry weight of many manufacturers does not include added options. Say you add a powerJack, leveling Jack's, dual battery setup, ac unit, awning, spare tire and mount, equalizing hitch, solar upgrade, and any other items it can raise your dry weight by 1000 pounds by the time you get it out the door. I had a friend and 3 other passengers almost get killed because of this with a Ford expedition. Accurate scales are the only way to check you are in the safe area. Tire loading is a very critical part of the weighting. If you have changed out tires as many do verify they meet the trucks axle loading requirements

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