SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[Bsthroop]

The bottom one (Interior Center Ant) is an ACTIVE fault, this is the issue.

There are 4ea total connectors between the BCM and the Antenna

You still have a connector unplugged, in the wiring under the center console.

C2280G = BCM Connector

The 3 remaining C312 / C315 / C325 are suspect as being disconnected.
and all are located beginning at the dash to console junction and then runs back under the console.

So, you need to doublecheck all the connectors you disconnected when you pulled the center console and associated panels for access.

C312 is a (21 Pin- In-Line Connector), it ties in other systems on that connector, which ties into all of the faults showing plus various systems such as the door speakers.
So, this one is HIGHY Suspect

C315 - Is a 2-wire (in-Line) connector, only feeds the Center Antenna

C325 - Is a 4-Wire (Connector) with only 2 wires, this connects to the Center Antenna.
I cannot find a clear diagram as to exactly where the antenna is actually mounted, but it is under the center console and it appears to be mounted on the console itself, just aft of the cupholders.

You are amazing! It was c315 and it now starts and all errors including the blend doors have cleared. Thank you so much!

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[airline tech]

Awesome!!!!

 

[Bsthroop]

After @airline tech saved my butt, Rusty started right up with no error codes and the blend box working perfect. The replacement was a full day job (mine was a bit messier due to a lot of added wiring), but was not difficult but was tedious. My recommendations are:

1. Get a small hex drive angle drill adaptor that makes the firewall box screws super easy. (I did them twice while figuring out how to get the box mounted) and it was painless.

2. I used a 3/8 air ratchet to remove the main dash bolts since they are tight all the way out. Saved a lot of time ratcheting.

3. The box is a super snug fit, more than I expected. Because it has 2 studs that stick out from the firewall, I started by setting it in place and putting in the top screws. This made it impossible to get the bottom set, even used a ratchet strap. It has a flange that goes all the way around that is very tight. I ended up removing the box, slightly bending the firewall studs upward, and screwing the bottom screws in. Then you can start tightening the nuts on the firewall studs while ensuring the flange around the box lines up. As it pulls forward you will be able to install the screws and clips ending with the top two on the firewall side.

4. Remove the front seats to give you room to move around.

5. As mentioned before, the allen bolt next to the windshield only needs to be loosened a few turns.

6. The worst part of the wiring disconnect/reconnect is around the fuse box. Take time to unplug and pull the wires/ plugs back behind the dash before pulling the dash. The video recommends pulling the fuse box which I didn't do but may make it easier.

7. If you have a cordless drill, get torx 20 and 25 hex bits which will speed up removal and replacement of lot of screws.

8. If you forget to shift out of park, once you remove the cover from the shifter you can push a small white tab under the bsck of the shifter that you can push to shift.

9. Be very careful making sure you confirm all wire plugs are reconnected, maybe make a list as you unplug. The one that caused me a problem which completely immobilized the truck was a small 2 wire plug that @airline tech tracked down. This is mounted to the inside of the center console near the dash. I didn't see it when removing the console and pulling the console back to remove it unplugged that connector, so i was not aware of it. This was the smallest plug of all and made a huge difference.

10. Use light gloves because everything is sharp, otherwise you will need a transfusion at the end of the project.

11. Use ziploc bags to keep hardware with each part. This made reassembly much easier and i had no left over hardware when i was done.

 

[airline tech]

Yes, being that this is trending towards a DYI project.
When doing repairs that involves a good deal of open up, it is a GOOD IDEA to:

1. Have separate containers for hardware, do not intermix hardware. (You know exactly what the hardware came from)

2. Wire Routing - Take a Pic of wire harness routing if it interweaves throughout the dash, makes it easier to reinstall in the OE routed position. (You do not have to guess as to how the wire harness was routed - Less chance of wire chaffing against a bracket etc.)

3. Document every disconnect, take the time to write down how many connectors you disconnected at each location, and just for added measure, get some tape and number them to identify exactly where it connects.
This is especially important for Ground wire points, easy to miss if not attentive.
Sometimes wire harness connectors can be the same and close proximity of each other that they can be connected to a connector it's not meant to be connected to.
(Easily and Quickly Identify, the exact connection points and crosscheck what you documented)

Before the final, let's see if this works, it's a good idea to mentally do the job again in your head with (Point and Touch) as a secondary validation, did I get everything connected and am I good to start the operational test.

Trust Me, the above helps the job go much easier with just a few extra steps and you are not scratching your head where the heck does this connector go or what did I miss

 

[Blue Streak]

Had a little time so I made a new temp control rod for my temporary fix. Works much better than the wire, wire was too flexible. If I paint it black it would not be as noticeable.
I guess I should put this in the hillbilly DIY thread.

 

[airline tech]

Had a little time so I made a new temp control rod for my temporary fix. Works much better than the wire, wire was too flexible. If I paint it black it would not be as noticeable.
I guess I should put this in the hillbilly DIY thread.

Good use for what appears to be a straw and a vacuum elbow.

 

[Blue Streak]

Good use for what appears to be a straw and a vacuum elbow.

Actually it is part of an old laundry cart. Thin metal tube & the plastic corner tube connector. I save old junk for a reason. At the time I save it I'm not sure for what.

 

[Waxthis]

For those of you in Colorado that had the dealer fix this issue, where did you go and were you happy with the result. I've been hearing more and more clicking sounds behind the dash and have a feeling I'll be using my a Ford Extended warranty this spring...

 

[Frenchy]

I went to Summit Ford a few years ago

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