Right turn signal indicator on dash flashes fast.

[FiberTech]

When I turn on my right turn signal on my 2021 Ranger Lariat it flashes faster than when I turn on my left one on my instrument panel. The turn signal bulbs outside my Ranger flash at the regular speed, I know from previous Rangers that when this happens it's usually a bad bulb. I had went around my Ranger and can't find any issues on the signals.
Wondering if anyone had this issue and what did you doto correct it.

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[lukdeg]

had a similar issue last week but I had my trailer connected with a blown bulb on it. not sure what would cause that issue if no bulb are blown

 

[got3fords]

Is there a side light or mirror light out?

 

[FiberTech]

Is there a side light or mirror light out?

None, checked the mirror, front turn signals and back ones. Didn't find any burnt out bulbs.

 

[Max Crafter]

pull them out anyways. clean the contacts and put them back in.
Its helped me in the past

 

[airline tech]

The Hyper-Flash is due to resistance, so dirty contact or bulb is still working but the filament. is creating a high resistance. (Think of it as an early warning)
The dash indicator will flash 150 (Minute) and the exterior will flash 70 (Minute)
Another thing to try is - Cycle Hazzard Switch - sometimes this will cycle the lights and then work normally.

 

[Big Blue]

The Hyper-Flash is due to resistance, so dirty contact or bulb is still working but the filament. is creating a high resistance. (Think of it as an early warning)
The dash indicator will flash 150 (Minute) and the exterior will flash 70 (Minute)
Another thing to try is - Cycle Hazzard Switch - sometimes this will cycle the lights and then work normally.

I had always heard that the hyperflash was do to too low of resistence or an open due to bulb burned out. People who have put LED bulbs in place of halogens sometime had to install resisters to stop the hyperflash.

 

[FiberTech]

I had always heard that the hyperflash was do to too low of resistence or an open due to bulb burned out. People who have put LED bulbs in place of halogens sometime had to install resisters to stop the hyperflash.

Very true, I had to do that with my Expedtion when I installed LEDs to the back turn signals.

 

[airline tech]

I had always heard that the hyperflash was do to too low of resistence or an open due to bulb burned out. People who have put LED bulbs in place of halogens sometime had to install resisters to stop the hyperflash.

The Hyper-Flash would see it as an open, basically if the filament is partially broken allowing some current flow through it (+) to (Ground) it would be high resistance, the same as a corroded or dirty contact.
Inside the BCM -It has its own feedback monitor and protects the circuit by (FET) Field Effect Transistor, basically it is a virtual circuit breaker, that can reset itself.
The reason LED mods require a resistor to be added is due to current flow, current flows more easily through a LED than a Halogen, so it picks up Hyper-Flash due to an unequal load on the circuit.
So you add the resistor to (1) protect the LED from overvoltage and (2) to match the resistance of the incandescent bulb for circuit integrity.
The BCM is always monitoring the circuit for voltage issues. (Shorts / Opens) and has MIn/Max limits on voltage it sees.

 

[JasonTremor]

I have that happen only when pulling my utility trailer. Resistance values between the left and right blinkers on trailer are different is only trigger I can identify. All bulbs working on truck and trailer though with normal flash rate regardless what the trucks dash cluster indicates.

I have on my list to change the trailer over to led and rewire it.

 

[Trigganometry]

Unless built into the light module all turn signal bulbs are in incandescent type. Pretty sure factory does not use dielectric grease on any of these bulbs or connections. Depending on environmental conditions the oxidation of contact surfaces does mess with the connections. Some maintenance and some dielectric goes a long ways to keep this at bay for a very long time. As soon as a factory bulb does go in mine will replace with LED that has can bus resistance. Brighter and will last as long as I own it.

 

[FiberTech]

The Hyper-Flash is due to resistance, so dirty contact or bulb is still working but the filament. is creating a high resistance. (Think of it as an early warning)
The dash indicator will flash 150 (Minute) and the exterior will flash 70 (Minute)
Another thing to try is - Cycle Hazzard Switch - sometimes this will cycle the lights and then work normally.

I did try and run the hazards for a little bit and they had flashed in a standard motion of time on my instrument cluster. But it didn't correct it when I had just used my right turn signal, still a fast blink.

 

[airline tech]

You could try Forscan and see if you have any (B) - Body Codes, it should have generated a code. since it is a low-level fault. It would not trip the dash light. This may help narrow down the problem bulb.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Both of mine hyper flash, but its probably something I did and I am too lazy to track down the problem or go into forscan and see if some sort of reset will work.

 

[FiberTech]

You could try Forscan and see if you have any (B) - Body Codes, it should have generated a code. since it is a low-level fault. It would not trip the dash light. This may help narrow down the problem bulb.

How do you access forscan?

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