Ride quality on Ranger *head bobble sensation*

[Fitzmotor]

Been thinking about one these. Did you do shocks too?

My truck is a Tremor, the shocks are good enough, I did change the rear springs to the Global multi leaf, but that was so I could de-arc them and leave the Tremor multi leaf springs alone.

The sway bay was a huge improvement for me, I drive hard and it really calms down the back of the truck, especially when changing lanes on the frwy, you don't get that rear wiggle, of course it's great on hard turns as well, a member here (Gryder I think) suggested setting the swaybar on the firmest setting, it is the way to go.

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[Fitzmotor]

Interesting, I would have guessed a sway bar while improving lean in a corner (flatter), would tend to increase side to side rocking as it would tend to remove articulation.

I think it helps control the spring (which is the shocks job) but it does counter act the chassis rocking, I have disconnected it for short periods of time during leaf spring work (springs have been in and out 3 times) and I always notice it with driveways, speed bumps and lane changes.

I very much recommend a rear bar, but.. the Tremor has a lighter front bar, so maybe I need it more than a non Tremor.

I've considered putting on a regular front bar as well.

 

[deleriumtremor]

I think it helps control the spring (which is the shocks job) but it does counter act the chassis rocking, I have disconnected it for short periods of time during leaf spring work (springs have been in and out 3 times) and I always notice it with driveways, speed bumps and lane changes.

I very much recommend a rear bar, but.. the Tremor has a lighter front bar, so maybe I need it more than a non Tremor.

I've considered putting on a regular front bar as well.

Very surprising result (on the rocking back and forth dampening), still trying to get my head around that.

On corning on the street, I can definitely see how it would help.

 

[Fitzmotor]

It's simple, the side to side movement now has to twist a 3/4 bar.

 

[SigOris]

My truck is a Tremor, the shocks are good enough, I did change the rear springs to the Global multi leaf, but that was so I could de-arc them and leave the Tremor multi leaf springs alone.

The sway bay was a huge improvement for me, I drive hard and it really calms down the back of the truck, especially when changing lanes on the frwy, you don't get that rear wiggle, of course it's great on hard turns as well, a member here (Gryder I think) suggested setting the swaybar on the firmest setting, it is the way to go.

Thanks

 

[deleriumtremor]

It's simple, the side to side movement now has to twist a 3/4 bar.

To keep the body more level in uneven terrain (where one wheel is in bump and another perhaps in droop) you want more articulation, sway bars limit articulation.

I believe you when you say you feel an improvement in side to side rocking on uneven surfaces.

 

[Fitzmotor]

Yeah, I know sway bars are for asphalt, that's where the OP listed his concerns.

Off road is another subject all together.

 

[Msfitoy]

Interesting, I would have guessed a sway bar while improving lean in a corner (flatter), would tend to increase side to side rocking as it would tend to remove articulation.

You're right...there's the no sway bar front/rear side to side soft rocking and then there's the head bang into side glass with stiff front/rear sway bars...crossing speed bumps at an angle is a real pain unless I crawl over them...

 

[9zero1790]

my truck feels so different with no weight in the back. I keep a bunch of stuff in the bed and back seat, smoothens out the ride a lot. put an extra spare in the bed or full cooler.

 

[rydfree]

I was surprised at how easily the factory shocks could be compressed by hand. It almost felt like they were blown from the factory.

The faster you try to compress a shock the harder it will resist due to valving . Shocks control the speed of the the wheel moving up and down only, the spring is what holds the car up. Shocks are easy to move slowly with your hand. Springs on the other hand are almost impossible to move with your hand.

 

[got3fords]

The faster you try to compress a shock the harder it will resist due to valving . Shocks control the speed of the the wheel moving up and down only, the spring is what holds the car up. Shocks are easy to move slowly with your hand. Springs on the other hand are almost impossible to move with your hand.

I compared the Eibach's to the stock rear shocks and there was no comparison when compressing by hand. Eichbachs collapse much harder.

 

[brroberts]

I did 4600’s in the rear of my 2wd as soon as I got it. much better, and I’m happy. I also have the blue Sumo bump stop replacements.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

The faster you try to compress a shock the harder it will resist due to valving . Shocks control the speed of the the wheel moving up and down only, the spring is what holds the car up. Shocks are easy to move slowly with your hand. Springs on the other hand are almost impossible to move with your hand.

Try compressing the Bilsteins slowly by hand.

I'm aware that the FX4 shocks are hydraulic and the Bilsteins are gas charged, but the FX4 shocks honestly feel blown they are so soft.

And the compression is not where they're weakest, the rebound is really poor.

 

[9zero1790]

Try compressing the Bilsteins slowly by hand.

I'm aware that the FX4 shocks are hydraulic and the Bilsteins are gas charged, but the FX4 shocks honestly feel blown they are so soft.

And the compression is not where they're weakest, the rebound is really poor.

one of my rear fx4 shocks was toasted. im not a muscle brute and could play the bad shock like an according lol. one seemed ok. to be totally honest its likely my fault the shock failed. the 5100 bilstein feels much better. a bit more controlled without being too stiff.

 

[rydfree]

Try compressing the Bilsteins slowly by hand.

I'm aware that the FX4 shocks are hydraulic and the Bilsteins are gas charged, but the FX4 shocks honestly feel blown they are so soft.

And the compression is not where they're weakest, the rebound is really poor.

I'm not saying that there is not a difference in shocks or that you can compress one easier than another . I'm just pointing out that just because you can compress one model more easily than another , that in of itself is not a sign of it being "Blown" , LOL .
Signs of leaking would certainly point to a blown shock and there can be an internal bypass issue which would present itself in a totally different manner .
I'm sure the stock shocks were designed to be perfectly functional for 90% of the people that buy the vehicle . You can hand compress most any OEM shock out there , although since I have installed a TGD I am finding it more difficult to do in my later years

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