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Remote Start & Battery Saver Mode

RangerBill

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I've always had that notice, even when I bought a new battery, the previous one died, I still get that notification. I've learned that it's a hit or miss when trying to start from the pak
Did you reset the BMS system when you installed the new battery? That might make a difference.
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RangerBill

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To be honest, I have no idea what that is. How do I do that?
If you have Forscan, you can do it with that program. Here is another way to reset the BMS that some have used:

Ranger BMS Reset Procedure After a Battery Replacement

Key accessory on / engine off. Flash brights 5 times. Pump brake 5 times. Battery icon flashed four times indicating BMS reset.
 

got3fords

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That doesn't look too good but the desulfator does wonders. . Can you get an IR (internal resistance) reading?
Yeah IR is really important.
 

got3fords

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My tester arrived and I immediately tested the battery, but forgot to take a picture. The truck had been sitting overnight so it was a completely cold test. The result was actually better in some respects than what's shown below.
I find I get widely varying results when retaking multiple times in row. I guess it's the variance in how well the connection is. I go with whatever result is best.
 


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I find I get widely varying results when retaking multiple times in row. I guess it's the variance in how well the connection is. I go with whatever result is best.
Yes, testing this way is NOT precise as it is a (Resistance) based test the only TRUE way for ACTUAL results is to connect straight to the battery posts, which cannot be achieved due to the (BMFL)
Granted - the accuracy of the Tester itself and how well it is calibrated plays a role in this test.
I have yet to (Disconnect) the Battery and do a test (multiple) to see if you get the same varying results as you do with the Battery Connected.
another factor is (with the Battery Connected) you are drawing power off of the battery unless the Modules are in (sleep mode) to minimalize that draw and then take into account that the BCM is seeing the Hood Open (Hood Switch) is also providing a (Can Bus) signal that it is open.

So, with the loads on the battery with it hooked up, and the tester trying to pulse power through the battery at the same time - may explain the varied results when hooked up and battery still connected.
I have not pinpointed that down yet - but it makes sense and getting the battery truly isolated may provide more accurate results.
Since that is (Time Consuming) for a simple test - it's easier to just find the best result and set that as a (Baseline) that you should see normally and when you document and do it enough you have a guide to go by.

Like - I am calling this - GOOD and I suspect if I was to disconnect the battery the results would be even better like 100% and a lower IR reading.
So, for me - with the Battery Connected - This Result = 100% but to CONFIRM it I would have to disconnect the battery and test it.

My last Test- Oct 2024

TopDon Oct 24.jpg


and to show how much the (Testers) can differ - this is hooked up at the same location and done just after the (TopDon) test was completed.

Viking Oct 24.jpg



So, as you can see - the results will vary by each tool, it's in the design of them
But the Measured CCA and the Internal IR readings are the most important of the readings as they directly relate to each other.
The Higher the (IR) the Lower the CCA will be.

With the Foxwell Results Showing: 415 CCA then the IR is high (in the 5-6 Range), when it needs to be closer to the rated CCA of 800 which will make the IR in the Lower 3's Range.

1741828074246-lo.jpg
 

got3fords

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another factor is (with the Battery Connected) you are drawing power off of the battery unless the Modules are in (sleep mode) to minimalize that draw and then take into account that the BCM is seeing the Hood Open (Hood Switch) is also providing a (Can Bus) signal that it is open.
I have tried parking, pulling the hood open lever, and letting it sit for a few hours. I can't remember the results, but I don't know if anything activates when lifting the hood and taking a measurement. Nothing is touched but lifting the hood. I don't remember hearing anything under the hood come to life doing this.
 

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I have tried parking, pulling the hood open lever, and letting it sit for a few hours. I can't remember the results, but I don't know if anything activates when lifting the hood and taking a measurement. Nothing is touched but lifting the hood. I don't remember hearing anything under the hood come to life doing this.
It's just transmitting data that the (Hood is Opened) and it will also deactivate (Remote Start) as all monitored doors & hood have to trigger closed & locked. This is why when you remote start the door locks will auto trigger to (Lock) it's a security feature.
The Hood Ajar (Switch) can be tricked by (opening the hood and manually pushing down) on the latch (2-Detents) first one being the (Hood Release) position where is (rests) when you pull the interior handle (cable) and the second detent is the position it is when you close the hood and give it that extra push down.

To Close the Hood:
Just be AWARE that if you do this you MUST first pull the interior handle and then pop the hood release lever to (RESET) its open position, otherwise you are slamming the hood closed on an already closed latch / switch.
 
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I'll run the test again tomorrow. I think I might have needed to arrow down on the Foxwell to see the IR value. The battery will also have been on the Battery Tender all night so we'll see how that affects the readings.
 

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What you need to do is have the battery checked. Chances are it's starting to go bad and needs to be replaced. Once that's done you should be set
 

got3fords

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What you need to do is have the battery checked. Chances are it's starting to go bad and needs to be replaced. Once that's done you should be set
I think that's why he got his Foxwell tester.
 

alcohenusa

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Yes, testing this way is NOT precise as it is a (Resistance) based test the only TRUE way for ACTUAL results is to connect straight to the battery posts, which cannot be achieved due to the (BMFL)
Granted - the accuracy of the Tester itself and how well it is calibrated plays a role in this test.
I have yet to (Disconnect) the Battery and do a test (multiple) to see if you get the same varying results as you do with the Battery Connected.
another factor is (with the Battery Connected) you are drawing power off of the battery unless the Modules are in (sleep mode) to minimalize that draw and then take into account that the BCM is seeing the Hood Open (Hood Switch) is also providing a (Can Bus) signal that it is open.

So, with the loads on the battery with it hooked up, and the tester trying to pulse power through the battery at the same time - may explain the varied results when hooked up and battery still connected.
I have not pinpointed that down yet - but it makes sense and getting the battery truly isolated may provide more accurate results.
Since that is (Time Consuming) for a simple test - it's easier to just find the best result and set that as a (Baseline) that you should see normally and when you document and do it enough you have a guide to go by.

Like - I am calling this - GOOD and I suspect if I was to disconnect the battery the results would be even better like 100% and a lower IR reading.
So, for me - with the Battery Connected - This Result = 100% but to CONFIRM it I would have to disconnect the battery and test it.

My last Test- Oct 2024

TopDon Oct 24.jpg


and to show how much the (Testers) can differ - this is hooked up at the same location and done just after the (TopDon) test was completed.

Viking Oct 24.jpg



So, as you can see - the results will vary by each tool, it's in the design of them
But the Measured CCA and the Internal IR readings are the most important of the readings as they directly relate to each other.
The Higher the (IR) the Lower the CCA will be.
I have the Topdon BT100. My battery was testing poorly (only a year old), recommending replacement. I was not having any issues, just the bad test reults.

I was about to return it for a warranty replacement and I actually removed the battery to take it back. I decided to test it disconnected from the truck and it tested perfectly.

Now it’s a few months later and still no issues.
 
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CTYankee

CTYankee

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This is the resistance reading from yesterday.

20250313_132918.jpg


The Ranger has been on the Battery Tender for close to 24 hours. The light on the BT was solid green, so showing the battery as fully charged.

Here are the results of today's test.
20250313_133249.webp


20250313_133259.webp


So now my question is: "Does the desulfator I've ordered stand a decent chance of restoring this battery?", keeping in mind that the only issue I'm having is FordPass shutting down the remote start. I can live with that for a bit if it means not having to buy a new battery.

20250313_132918.jpg
 

IdahoRanger

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Looking better. Run the desulfator again and again until you get the IR down into the 3's and the CCA's up to normal.
 
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CTYankee

CTYankee

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So the desulfator hasn't arrived yet, but I've kept the Ranger on the Battery Tender Jr. I also drove it around 30 miles on the highway today. Here are the readings after getting home.

20250315_163029.webp


20250315_163033.webp


I guess the short trips around town a few times each week are tough on the battery and just keeping it on the charger is all that's needed. The ASS and remote starting haven't been a problem since I started doing that.
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