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RCMUSTANG's Magnetic FX4

Dr3wDrop

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Quite the nightmare project. Found out the hard way there's a tab for the EGR tube at the back of the manifold. It was binding everything up from lining up. You also need to cut and extend the EGR tube since the manifold is now pushed further out. Had to buy a saber saw to get in there to cut the tube. Now to drive it and monitor the mileage and see if there's any gain with the intake manifold spacer. Yes, that's my blood there. So, it automatically gained 25 horsepower.
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It looks like the manifold spacer should come with a matching billet EGR spacer.
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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It looks like the manifold spacer should come with a matching billet EGR spacer.
No spacer would work since it moved sideways.
 
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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Second tank since intake manifold spacer: computer 22.6mpg, manual calculation 22.8. Computer was actually low this time by .2. More street stop and go driving than normal before the install. Still 1.5 mpg higher than before.
 

QCRanger48

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Finally decided to revisit the sway bar disconnects. The first set worked well and quick with no tools but ended up very clanky after the grease pushed out. Found these off the shelf Rough Country ( yeah, yeah, save the anti Rough Country opinions) and they seem to fit nicely. While they are overall shorter that brings the sway bar closer to the stock position for a lifted setup. Doesn't feel as tight as the all steel ones but there's no noise as of driving it around the block. To remove these you may need a prybar and a pair of channel locks to reinstall the pin. I'll take that over the clanking. Disclaimer: try these at your own risk. Part Number 1146. These are for a jeep.
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How are these holding up after a few months?
 
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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How are these holding up after a few months?
Don't even think about them. Feels just like stock ride with factory links. Definitely enjoy no more clanking like with the previous ones.
 


TontoRanger

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How easy/difficult have those RC links been to disconnect and reconnect? I’m curious why you thought at install that a pry bar and channel locks might be needed.

and do you disconnect both sides or just one?
 
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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How easy/difficult have those RC links been to disconnect and reconnect? I’m curious why you thought at install that a pry bar and channel locks might be needed.

and do you disconnect both sides or just one?
Removal is easy. Pull the pins. Putting them back on you may have to realign them hence the prybar. Channel locks because you need to compress the bushing in order to put the pin back in.
 

Frenchy

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Experimenting with raptor bump stops.

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It's nice to see this but I do wonder if you ever took measurements of the two? I would be very helpful with the lovely leaf debate
 
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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It's nice to see this but I do wonder if you ever took measurements of the two? I would be very helpful with the lovely leaf debate
No, but it's about half the size from the picture.

I just got under there and it's about 2-2.25" from tip to frame.
 
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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Let's see if third times the charm.
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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Not bad for a 20+ year old Harbor Freight powder coating system. Looks like I need the regulator. Made the powder coating inconsistent but looks OK for a blue anodized. Guess I'll be playing around with my powder coater more often. It's only been about 15+ years since I last really used it much.
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RCMUSTANG

RCMUSTANG

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Now I don't want to install it because I won't see it unless I'm under the truck. Lol
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