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NotBudule2

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I've been looking at doing this very thing and have watched several videos, the one I just watched above using the LCA method looks to be way way WAY less work, unless I'm missing something, no brakes to mess with , no fasteners will need replaced, no axle issues (that was my biggest fear) looks like it's pretty easy... (famous last words)...
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DukeCanBuildit

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I've been looking at doing this very thing and have watched several videos, the one I just watched above using the LCA method looks to be way way WAY less work, unless I'm missing something, no brakes to mess with , no fasteners will need replaced, no axle issues (that was my biggest fear) looks like it's pretty easy... (famous last words)...
I agree Robert, it looks WAY less complicated, cheaper, and easier. Begs the question…”What are the drawbacks, challenges, pitfalls?” But, really, how could it be worse?
 

NotBudule2

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I agree Robert, it looks WAY less complicated, cheaper, and easier. Begs the question…”What are the drawbacks, challenges, pitfalls?” But, really, how could it be worse?
I'm guessing if you dont mark the control arms just right, your alignment would be off, but I plan on getting an alignment right after anyways... plus I was leaning towards the ones with the springs already on so I don't have to mess with a spring compressor... ALL OF THIS just so I can get some new rims/tires that I will NEVER be able to decide on in the first place ...
Sorry to highjack thread...
 

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Hmm. Just about every instructional I've seen has warned about the CV coming out and the hassle it is getting it lined up and back in. Is it a real problem?

Taking the axle out of the hub is easy to remove and reinstall. Separating the CV is a pain in the a--.

For the sake of specifics, the axle is the whole assembly from the front diff to the hub, it has two CVs on it. The CV is the part that spins and allows the angle. Taking the axle out of the hub is just splined in and easy. The CV has to be pressed together. (you can press it by hand/with a rubber mallet).
 
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OldHippy

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Taking the axle out of the hub is easy to remove and reinstall. Separating the CV is a pain in the a--.

For the sake of specifics, the axle is the whole assembly from the front diff to the hub, it has two CVs on it. The CV is the part that spins and allows the angle. Taking the axle out of the hub is just splined in and easy. The CV has to be pressed together. (you can press it by hand/with a rubber mallet).
Ok got ya. Thnx.
 


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I'm guessing if you dont mark the control arms just right, your alignment would be off, but I plan on getting an alignment right after anyways... plus I was leaning towards the ones with the springs already on so I don't have to mess with a spring compressor... ALL OF THIS just so I can get some new rims/tires that I will NEVER be able to decide on in the first place ...
Sorry to highjack thread...
You read my mind! Easier, no risk of axle being pulled out, and faster. And if you mark it carefully you'll put right back were it was.

But if you raise it you'll need an alignment anyway. I have the ones with springs installed with variable height adjustment, not just 3 settings with rings.
 
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OldHippy

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I bought mine from my local Ford dealer. They might look a lot like NyLocks but they are different. Best to stick with OEM on these items.

Make sure your torque wrench is capable of measuring up to 221 lb-ft for the axle nut. Push the axle all the way through the knuckle and secure it - don’t just loosen the nut like some videos suggest.

A popped CV can be tricky to reset - some have managed on their own, others with help from a friend and a soft hammer, and some had to call a wrecker to take it to the shop.

If you have silver aluminum knuckles, I don’t see how you would need the ball joint separator Ford mentions in the manual - should pop apart easily. If you have black cast iron knuckles, likely.

Unfasten the anti-sway bar link from the knuckle. If you don’t, you could pop its ball and socket joint. They’re not expensive and you can leave it off and drive to the dealership without one in place to buy a new one.

As others have mentioned, you don’t need to remove the calliper and rotor but the first time I did this, I left them place and dealt with gravity and arthritic shoulders while I did the driver’s side. When I did the passenger’s side, I decided to remove them - night and day difference. When I changed out my levelling kit for FOX shocks, off they came right away.

With all these things said, the LCA method others have recommended sure looks a lot less complicated and doesn’t have the same pitfalls of the UCA method. When I did my suspension, there was maybe one video showing the LCA method (not a step-by-step) and limited information online. There seems to be more expertise to draw from now. Definitely worth considering and researching.

Best of luck to you Michael, whichever method you choose.
Thank you Sir. That gave me some good info to consider. Im going to replace the Rotors and Calipers while Im in there. I screwed up and didn't get under my truck when I bought it. Not till first oil change. Which was close to a year after purchase. There was so much rust underneath, it was pathetic. I almost went back to dealership and ran it through the front showroom doors. Come to find out, it came out of Mi. And apparently the previous owner Never bothered to rince off the road salt.
I have since taken a wire brush on a drill and scrubbed Every inch of the undercarriage. And sprayed it with a rust neutralizer and a rust inhibitor. Then sprayed every part I could see and reach with undercoating. All 4 rotors are bad rusted around the rim where the grooves are. Smack it with hammer and rust just falls like rain. Blood pressure going up just talking about it. But, I guess its just as much My Fault for not putting it on a lift and inspecting it before I signed the papers. It was built in Jan 21. I bought it in Dec 22 with only 25,000 miles. Everything I could see was in Excellent condition. So my Presumption that what I couldnt see was just as erfect. But, Ive pretty much gotten it all taken care of. Except the rotors and calipers. Plus shocks and coilovers, will have it dealt with.
Oh well, enough of my whining. 🤣 I appreciate your help and good wishes.
Im a disabled Nam era veteran, so have nothing but time to get her right.
Replaced rear shocks today. Well, started yesterday. The drivers side was a Cluster. Had to cut bottom shock bolt off. It was gauled to the center of shock and bushing. The passenger side basically Fell off. .🤔
I will definitely take my time on the front. Have already got an appointment for alignment. Front tires started cupping on inside edge. I had replaced stock ones with 2 sizes taller. And have a little chatter with steering input at speed. So am sure it needs alignment.
Again. Thanks for all you guys excellent info and suggestions. You all have definitely made things easier. I will surely come a calling if I run into any difficulties. ✌✌
 
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OldHippy

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Once you learned the little secret to it, it’s very very easy to do. I’ve done it at least eight times now on two different rangers. Bottom line is you have to take the nut off the axle and keep pushing that axle in as you make room to take the coil over off. It truly is that simple. where are you located?
Im in central Ga. Between Macon and Savannah.
 
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OldHippy

OldHippy

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I'm guessing if you dont mark the control arms just right, your alignment would be off, but I plan on getting an alignment right after anyways... plus I was leaning towards the ones with the springs already on so I don't have to mess with a spring compressor... ALL OF THIS just so I can get some new rims/tires that I will NEVER be able to decide on in the first place ...
Sorry to highjack thread...
Hell. You didn't hijack. Im installing the Struts/ Coilovers with srings already attached as well. All one unit. Thnx for idea on LCA method. Have to find a Good tutorial on it though. Thnx again. ✌✌
 

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This is from Josh Mills he use to post on here not sure if he is still active. No real description, but this is what I used for reference doing it removing LCA. At about 4:30 shows removal and around 9:30 putting it back together. He removes upper UCA after new coilover is installed (axle will not pop out) he replaces with new UCA. This was over 5 years ago might be better videos if you search. Mark bolts and alignment will be close enough to drive to get it aligned properly.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Thank you Sir. That gave me some good info to consider. Im going to replace the Rotors and Calipers while Im in there. I screwed up and didn't get under my truck when I bought it. Not till first oil change. Which was close to a year after purchase. There was so much rust underneath, it was pathetic. I almost went back to dealership and ran it through the front showroom doors. Come to find out, it came out of Mi. And apparently the previous owner Never bothered to rince off the road salt.
I have since taken a wire brush on a drill and scrubbed Every inch of the undercarriage. And sprayed it with a rust neutralizer and a rust inhibitor. Then sprayed every part I could see and reach with undercoating. All 4 rotors are bad rusted around the rim where the grooves are. Smack it with hammer and rust just falls like rain. Blood pressure going up just talking about it. But, I guess its just as much My Fault for not putting it on a lift and inspecting it before I signed the papers. It was built in Jan 21. I bought it in Dec 22 with only 25,000 miles. Everything I could see was in Excellent condition. So my Presumption that what I couldnt see was just as erfect. But, Ive pretty much gotten it all taken care of. Except the rotors and calipers. Plus shocks and coilovers, will have it dealt with.
Oh well, enough of my whining. 🤣 I appreciate your help and good wishes.
Im a disabled Nam era veteran, so have nothing but time to get her right.
Replaced rear shocks today. Well, started yesterday. The drivers side was a Cluster. Had to cut bottom shock bolt off. It was gauled to the center of shock and bushing. The passenger side basically Fell off. .🤔
I will definitely take my time on the front. Have already got an appointment for alignment. Front tires started cupping on inside edge. I had replaced stock ones with 2 sizes taller. And have a little chatter with steering input at speed. So am sure it needs alignment.
Again. Thanks for all you guys excellent info and suggestions. You all have definitely made things easier. I will surely come a calling if I run into any difficulties. ✌✌
You may already know this but rear brakes on these trucks require a special tool to compress the rear brake pistons. They are turned while they are compressed.

This guy has good videos for the fronts and the rears, with a couple of good hacks to make it easier - of course, the fronts are different than the rears…





I just did mine yesterday and posted links for the brake piston compression tool…

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-887867

This guy also has a decent video on replacing rear pads and rotors…

 

hookem57

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I've been looking at doing this very thing and have watched several videos, the one I just watched above using the LCA method looks to be way way WAY less work, unless I'm missing something, no brakes to mess with , no fasteners will need replaced, no axle issues (that was my biggest fear) looks like it's pretty easy... (famous last words)...
Maybe. But I have a Tremor and those coilovers are tough. I dropped that lower control arm and it was a breeze. May 30 min a side. You ate going to get an alignment regardless. If you don't you will eat those tires up.
 

NotBudule2

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Unless I'm looking wrong, DAMN ! The fronts with the spring are a grand $ , but only half that without the springs? I guess i WILL reuse mine then ... im looking at the Eibach since I'm never offroad...
 
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OldHippy

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You may already know this but rear brakes on these trucks require a special tool to compress the rear brake pistons. They are turned while they are compressed.

This guy has good videos for the fronts and the rears, with a couple of good hacks to make it easier - of course, the fronts are different than the rears…





I just did mine yesterday and posted links for the brake piston compression tool…

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-887867

This guy also has a decent video on replacing rear pads and rotors…

Yes. I read about the compression tool. My daughter had a Pontiac G6 that I had to buy a special tool to release the pistons. Thanks much for the videos. Gonna need it. ✌
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Yes. I read about the compression tool. My daughter had a Pontiac G6 that I had to buy a special tool to release the pistons. Thanks much for the videos. Gonna need it. ✌
You’re welcome - note that the Bearded Ford Tech video does not show the proper way to align the piston in the calliper. Defer to Robguy’s video where he details how it should be done.
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