R&R front coilovers

[OldHippy]

Where can I find a step by step tutorial on removing and replacing front coilovers on my 2020 xlt 4x4?
I have seen so many supposed videos. But they all seem to jump around and many do more talking than actually Showing what to do.
Some say disconnect Everything, remove brakes and tie rods and sway bar and everything else. And some say thats not necessary. Thought I had it figured out a while back. But WOW, the more I look the more differing procedures I see. One thing I Don't want to do is pull my CV apart, like I have seen warning about. Any Common sense help will be much appreciated. Thnx

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[Colo_Ranger]

Noah's video for Stage 3 is good, but I would recommend that you also remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. That's the only place Noah leads you astray.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Colo_Ranger is right about the Stage3 video.

Here is a link to the Ford Tech Manual for the UCA method….

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/atta...hock-absorber-and-spring-assembly-pdf.248530/

I did the UCA method both times I’ve done this. I removed the calliper and rotor to make things easier when it came to re-assembly. There’s no need to wrestle with that extra weight like Noah does in the Stage3 video. Removing them only adds a few minutes on each end of the R&R.

If you jack it up one side at a time to do the work, you put pressure on the anti-sway bar and its links - that is why some say to remove it. Best to unfasten the links from the knuckle and to have a hoist or to raise both side and place your Ranger on jack stands.

I tossed and replaced all one-time use nuts as indicated in the manual. They are not very expensive.

I have no experience with the LCA method but it is much less involved if you want to go that route.

Here are the torque specs…

 

[LB'sTremor]

Here is probably the easiest way to get it out and in,without worrying about the CV joint but does not cover any rebuild of the strut if that is what you are after. Hope that helps

LB

 

[TJC]

I have no experience with the LCA method but it is much less involved if you want to go that route.

The Australians use the LCA method, and it has always looked the most effective way to me. I've got front struts to install, and have been putting off. I think I'm going the LCA route. Got my hands full with a transmission cooler project at the moment, but once it's done I'll tackle the front Eibachs. I got them for the control, not so much for leveling. I may set them up 1"... maybe. They are set to 3" from the factory. 1" has less wear on the CV joints.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

The Australians use the LCA method, and it has always looked the most effective way to me. I've got front struts to install, and have been putting off. I think I'm going the LCA route. Got my hands full with a transmission cooler project at the moment, but once it's done I'll tackle the front Eibachs. I got them for the control, not so much for leveling. I may set the up 1"... maybe. They are set to 3" from the factory. 1" has less wear on the CV joints.

Not for nothing but my front end is ~3 to 3.5” above factory, I wheel hard, and I’m on the original axles. They’ll take more than people give them credit for.

 

[OldHippy]

Colo_Ranger is right about the Stage3 video.

Here is a link to the Ford Tech Manual for the UCA method….

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/atta...hock-absorber-and-spring-assembly-pdf.248530/

I did the UCA method both times I’ve done this. I removed the calliper and rotor to make things easier when it came to re-assembly. There’s no need to wrestle with that extra weight like Noah does in the Stage3 video. Removing them only adds a few minutes on each end of the R&R.

If you jack it up one side at a time to do the work, you put pressure on the anti-sway bar and its links - that is why some say to remove it. Best to unfasten the links from the knuckle and to have a hoist or to raise both side and place your Ranger on jack stands.

I tossed and replaced all one-time use nuts as indicated in the manual. They are not very expensive.

I have no experience with the LCA method but it is much less involved if you want to go that route.

Here are the torque specs…

Thnx a million for both of these documents. I believe I've bout got it. Figured I would do the rear shocks while waiting to see what info I got from you all on the front.
Top bolt came out jiffy quick. Ended up having to cut the bottom shock bolt out. It wad Gaulded to the damn rubber in the shock. I have Never seen this before. I've seen em kinda melted together. But the damn bolt was welded to the bottom shock mount. Strange, for sure. Thnx again.

 

[OldHippy]

Noah's video for Stage 3 is good, but I would recommend that you also remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. That's the only place Noah leads you astray.

Hmm. Just about every instructional I've seen has warned about the CV coming out and the hassle it is getting it lined up and back in. Is it a real problem?

 

[OldHippy]

Colo_Ranger is right about the Stage3 video.

Here is a link to the Ford Tech Manual for the UCA method….

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/atta...hock-absorber-and-spring-assembly-pdf.248530/

I did the UCA method both times I’ve done this. I removed the calliper and rotor to make things easier when it came to re-assembly. There’s no need to wrestle with that extra weight like Noah does in the Stage3 video. Removing them only adds a few minutes on each end of the R&R.

If you jack it up one side at a time to do the work, you put pressure on the anti-sway bar and its links - that is why some say to remove it. Best to unfasten the links from the knuckle and to have a hoist or to raise both side and place your Ranger on jack stands.

I tossed and replaced all one-time use nuts as indicated in the manual. They are not very expensive.

I have no experience with the LCA method but it is much less involved if you want to go that route.

Here are the torque specs…

Where is the best place to get all the one time use NUTS to replace the Tossed ones?

 

[Mighty Little Blue]

The Australians use the LCA method, and it has always looked the most effective way to me. I've got front struts to install, and have been putting off. I think I'm going the LCA route. Got my hands full with a transmission cooler project at the moment, but once it's done I'll tackle the front Eibachs. I got them for the control, not so much for leveling. I may set the up 1"... maybe. They are set to 3" from the factory. 1" has less wear on the CV joints.

Use the LCA method, I did and it was not an issue. It was the 1st time I had did front suspension work. Only issues was on 1st side I did it by myself and needed extra hands to make it easier. On passenger side had my son help put it back together and it was very simple to get it all lined up.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Where is the best place to get all the one time use NUTS to replace the Tossed ones?

I bought mine from my local Ford dealer. They might look a lot like NyLocks but they are different. Best to stick with OEM on these items.

Make sure your torque wrench is capable of measuring up to 221 lb-ft for the axle nut. Push the axle all the way through the knuckle and secure it - don’t just loosen the nut like some videos suggest.

A popped CV can be tricky to reset - some have managed on their own, others with help from a friend and a soft hammer, and some had to call a wrecker to take it to the shop.

If you have silver aluminum knuckles, I don’t see how you would need the ball joint separator Ford mentions in the manual - should pop apart easily. If you have black cast iron knuckles, likely.

Unfasten the anti-sway bar link from the knuckle. If you don’t, you could pop its ball and socket joint. They’re not expensive and you can leave it off and drive to the dealership without one in place to buy a new one.

As others have mentioned, you don’t need to remove the calliper and rotor but the first time I did this, I left them place and dealt with gravity and arthritic shoulders while I did the driver’s side. When I did the passenger’s side, I decided to remove them - night and day difference. When I changed out my levelling kit for FOX shocks, off they came right away.

With all these things said, the LCA method others have recommended sure looks a lot less complicated and doesn’t have the same pitfalls of the UCA method. When I did my suspension, there was maybe one video showing the LCA method (not a step-by-step) and limited information online. There seems to be more expertise to draw from now. Definitely worth considering and researching.

Best of luck to you Michael, whichever method you choose.

 

[RK Racing]

Once you learned the little secret to it, it’s very very easy to do. I’ve done it at least eight times now on two different rangers. Bottom line is you have to take the nut off the axle and keep pushing that axle in as you make room to take the coil over off. It truly is that simple. where are you located?

 

[TJC]

Not for nothing but my front end is ~3 to 3.5” above factory, I wheel hard, and I’m on the original axles. They’ll take more than people give them credit for.

If I lived out west I wouldn't hesitate to raise the front a bit if I still played in that sandbox! I lived in Colorado for several years in the late 1970's, and had several 4x4 vehicles for running those mountain trials. Loads of fun. Liked my 71 FJ soft top best. It would go anywhere. Terrible MPG, but I didn't buy it for that!

 

[airline tech]

Copy & Paste from another thread
This is how I did mine

With the various posts about pulling the CV Joint apart, I decided to take extra steps to avoid this from happening.
So:
Pulled the Caliper & Rotor and Axle Nut
Disconnected the Upper Ball Joint & Tie Rod End and Sway Bar End Link
This allowed me to deflect the LCA down enough to get the shock assembly out from the upper tower once all was disconnected and the CV Shaft was pushed out of the hub.

Notes:
I am glad that I decided to procure every possible need (Tooling) as all disconnects were a fight to break loose.
The Passenger side was the easiest and less of a fight.

A. Both Upper Ball Joints - required more than just a whack with a hammer and needed to use my Ball Joint Tool - to get tension on it then a light tap with the hammer, and it popped loose.
So, I am glad I added this to my tool collection.

B. Drivers side Tie Rod End - also needed the same tool, Passenger Side (One Whack) and it popped loose.
I was able to get the CV Shaft out of the Hub, but the Tie Rod end was blocking me from getting the deflection needed to get the shock out of the upper tower, so extra time was spent getting the Tie Rod end to break free to get the deflection needed for the LCA to drop down enough
I only needed about 2 more inches, and it just was not going to happen unless I spent the extra effort on getting the Tie Rod disconnected.
Also noted that the (Ground Points) by the upper shock tower bolts somewhat limits access but it can be worked around without disconnecting them (Drivers Side)

C. Both Sway Bar End Links - Required me to hold the link with an Allen Key and then use a wrench to get the nut off as it just wanted to spin.
I did note (paid attention) with the sway bar end link connected how much of a throw the end link has (relating to various threads about steering wheel) not returning to center in a sharp turn.
My assumption of the end links being a possible source proved correct and noted that if the ball end of the link was galled (in that scenario) it would hang up wheel turned and body roll acting on the end link.

D. I also lubed my caliper sliders and noted driver's side was pretty dry as compared to the passenger side when going back together with it, I may pull the rears and lube them as preventing maintenance.
Note: I am at 19,900 miles, still 8mm on the front pads and no abnormal wear, so they were not sticking (YET)

I index marked the shock assembly before I compressed the spring to make it easier to get the proper alignment when going back together.

So, it took longer than expected to do it, but both sides complete in 4.5 Hours (on the floor and one side at a time -jacked)
Sourced all new hardware (especially the Axle Nuts)

I did not disconnect the control arms and only focused on the knuckle, so the alignment stayed intact, still drives straight- but with my 20K rotate and balance due, I am going to get it realigned anyway, that was part of the reason for me waiting to install the shocks, the passenger side was not fully blown it was just seeping fluid down the shock, yes it would be a warranty item but I wanted to upgrade anyway to match my rears, which were swapped out @ 6K miles

The Ball Joint Tool was an Ebay Find (used) - Ford Rotunda PN: 204-592
The Spring Compressor is AutoZone (Loan A Tool) with option to keep (I think I will keep it)
This fits over the coils perfectly and had no problems compressing the spring enough to get it apart.
When I did this professionally, we had a wall mounted compressor (much safer) than this, but it worked and just ensured I was taking it down slow and easy, and my safety pins stayed in place.

 

[hookem57]

Where can I find a step by step tutorial on removing and replacing front coilovers on my 2020 xlt 4x4?
I have seen so many supposed videos. But they all seem to jump around and many do more talking than actually Showing what to do.
Some say disconnect Everything, remove brakes and tie rods and sway bar and everything else. And some say thats not necessary. Thought I had it figured out a while back. But WOW, the more I look the more differing procedures I see. One thing I Don't want to do is pull my CV apart, like I have seen warning about. Any Common sense help will be much appreciated. Thnx

I pulled my CV apart. Went right back together. Makes it so much easier.

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