Quick Disconnect Sway Bar Endlinks

[outlandish_ranger]

Ok. My turn for a review.

Installation was pretty straightforward.

To get the stock links off I recommend using an actual 6mm hex key, placing the short end in the bolt and allowing the long end to catch on either the spindle or LCA depending. You can then use an 18mm open end wrench to turn the nut.

You may need to jack the LCA a bit to get everything to line up when removing or installing the links the first time.

They're quite a bit louder than stock. My wife asked me if something was going to fall off the truck. I could probably adjust them as per the instructions, but then I run the risk of it being difficult to get the pins in and that's not something I want to deal with on the trail.

Performance wise these are easy to install, easy to pop off, and do exactly what they're supposed to do. 10/10 would buy again.

Driving off-road with no sway bar is god-mode comfy and I wish I'd done it sooner. Truck is like a Cadillac.

I do NOT recommend running around without the bar attached on the road. No ones going to listen to some old fart on a forum, but going barless on the highway is a recipe for disaster.

Also, I had the same fear about the loose bar snagging the boot or a brake line. Not possible. Worst case it flops down and taps the LCA.

Glad you enjoy them. They are of course not going to be as quiet as stock due to the quick-release feature but we tried to keep them as quiet as possible with the bushing and with the ease of removing the pins. I know you mentioned you did not want to tighten it a bit more for struggling to insert the pin but there is definitely a fine line between almost 100% quiet and still being able to pull out the pin and insert without a struggle. Thanks for your in-depth and honest review of them!

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[CO2Ranger]

Glad you enjoy them. They are of course not going to be as quiet as stock due to the quick-release feature but we tried to keep them as quiet as possible with the bushing and with the ease of removing the pins. I know you mentioned you did not want to tighten it a bit more for struggling to insert the pin but there is definitely a fine line between almost 100% quiet and still being able to pull out the pin and insert without a struggle. Thanks for your in-depth and honest review of them!

10/10 would buy them again knowing what I know now. Definitely worth it.

 

[Wes Siler]

10/10 would buy them again knowing what I know now. Definitely worth it.

I'd play around adjusting those tension nuts.

 

[CO2Ranger]

I'd play around adjusting those tension nuts.

Done. Will give her a go around town today and see how I did!

 

[Wes Siler]

Took the Ranger on a reasonably technical trail yesterday, and pulled the disconnects for the first time.

Removal: I forgot to take advantage of a level area and used a pullout on a slope instead. Go under the truck while I was airing down and realized there was tension in the sway bar. But, pulled the pins without issue and was able to get the links off with a solid whack from an open hand.

Ride quality: decoupling the two sides of the suspension means one wheel is free to drop into a pothole or bump over a rock without tweaking the opposite wheel. So, the wheels are free to move with less resistance and less impact on the rest of the vehicle. Big improvement.

Flex: I was with a buddy who has copied my build exactly (smart guy), but hasn't done the sway bar disconnects yet. We're both on full OME BP-51 systems with ARB Summit Bumpers, winches, GFCs. He doesn't have sliders, drawers, or a rear bumper though, so is a little lighter than me. My body stayed noticeably more level over obstacles than his did. That was especially useful when we got dead ended by an impassible snow drift, and had to back down the trail for half a mile or so before finding a place to turn around. My truck, with the sway bar disconnected, was just a lot more forgiving while I was backing over stuff with poor vision.

Refitting: Thought I was smart by pulling onto a level area to air up and reattach the links. Turns out it wasn't quite perfect. Had to push/pull the sway bar a little to get the links lined up correctly. Was a cinch on the first side, then once that link was on, the other side took a little muscle. Still, it was far from challenging and I had both links on in half the time it took my friend to air up a single axle using my Power Tank (which is very fast) and InDeflate Two Hose, which allows me to balance pressures across the axle while airing up/down two tires at once.

Verdict: Really happy so far. And everything appears to have remained tight through probably 200 road miles and 20 trail miles. In addition to airing down, pulling the end links really transforms how the Ranger performs on technical terrain. And then being able to stick them back on and air up meant I was able to tackle a twisty mountain road on the way home with as much speed and confidence as ever.

Thanks for making these guys. This is an excellent example of how a vehicle community can serve enthusiasts.

 

[CO2Ranger]

Took the Ranger on a reasonably technical trail yesterday, and pulled the disconnects for the first time.

Removal: I forgot to take advantage of a level area and used a pullout on a slope instead. Go under the truck while I was airing down and realized there was tension in the sway bar. But, pulled the pins without issue and was able to get the links off with a solid whack from an open hand.

Ride quality: decoupling the two sides of the suspension means one wheel is free to drop into a pothole or bump over a rock without tweaking the opposite wheel. So, the wheels are free to move with less resistance and less impact on the rest of the vehicle. Big improvement.

Flex: I was with a buddy who has copied my build exactly (smart guy), but hasn't done the sway bar disconnects yet. We're both on full OME BP-51 systems with ARB Summit Bumpers, winches, GFCs. He doesn't have sliders, drawers, or a rear bumper though, so is a little lighter than me. My body stayed noticeably more level over obstacles than his did. That was especially useful when we got dead ended by an impassible snow drift, and had to back down the trail for half a mile or so before finding a place to turn around. My truck, with the sway bar disconnected, was just a lot more forgiving while I was backing over stuff with poor vision.

Refitting: Thought I was smart by pulling onto a level area to air up and reattach the links. Turns out it wasn't quite perfect. Had to push/pull the sway bar a little to get the links lined up correctly. Was a cinch on the first side, then once that link was on, the other side took a little muscle. Still, it was far from challenging and I had both links on in half the time it took my friend to air up a single axle using my Power Tank (which is very fast) and InDeflate Two Hose, which allows me to balance pressures across the axle while airing up/down two tires at once.

Verdict: Really happy so far. And everything appears to have remained tight through probably 200 road miles and 20 trail miles. In addition to airing down, pulling the end links really transforms how the Ranger performs on technical terrain. And then being able to stick them back on and air up meant I was able to tackle a twisty mountain road on the way home with as much speed and confidence as ever.

Thanks for making these guys. This is an excellent example of how a vehicle community can serve enthusiasts.

I had to have my kids (maybe 100lbs total) stand on my rock sliders to get the second side in as well. Made for a fun interaction from my "helpers".

 

[outlandish_ranger]

Took the Ranger on a reasonably technical trail yesterday, and pulled the disconnects for the first time.

Removal: I forgot to take advantage of a level area and used a pullout on a slope instead. Go under the truck while I was airing down and realized there was tension in the sway bar. But, pulled the pins without issue and was able to get the links off with a solid whack from an open hand.

Ride quality: decoupling the two sides of the suspension means one wheel is free to drop into a pothole or bump over a rock without tweaking the opposite wheel. So, the wheels are free to move with less resistance and less impact on the rest of the vehicle. Big improvement.

Flex: I was with a buddy who has copied my build exactly (smart guy), but hasn't done the sway bar disconnects yet. We're both on full OME BP-51 systems with ARB Summit Bumpers, winches, GFCs. He doesn't have sliders, drawers, or a rear bumper though, so is a little lighter than me. My body stayed noticeably more level over obstacles than his did. That was especially useful when we got dead ended by an impassible snow drift, and had to back down the trail for half a mile or so before finding a place to turn around. My truck, with the sway bar disconnected, was just a lot more forgiving while I was backing over stuff with poor vision.

Refitting: Thought I was smart by pulling onto a level area to air up and reattach the links. Turns out it wasn't quite perfect. Had to push/pull the sway bar a little to get the links lined up correctly. Was a cinch on the first side, then once that link was on, the other side took a little muscle. Still, it was far from challenging and I had both links on in half the time it took my friend to air up a single axle using my Power Tank (which is very fast) and InDeflate Two Hose, which allows me to balance pressures across the axle while airing up/down two tires at once.

Verdict: Really happy so far. And everything appears to have remained tight through probably 200 road miles and 20 trail miles. In addition to airing down, pulling the end links really transforms how the Ranger performs on technical terrain. And then being able to stick them back on and air up meant I was able to tackle a twisty mountain road on the way home with as much speed and confidence as ever.

Thanks for making these guys. This is an excellent example of how a vehicle community can serve enthusiasts.

Thanks for the in-depth review and thanks for purchasing them!

 

[Whiplash]

Took the Ranger on a reasonably technical trail yesterday, and pulled the disconnects for the first time.

Removal: I forgot to take advantage of a level area and used a pullout on a slope instead. Go under the truck while I was airing down and realized there was tension in the sway bar. But, pulled the pins without issue and was able to get the links off with a solid whack from an open hand.

Ride quality: decoupling the two sides of the suspension means one wheel is free to drop into a pothole or bump over a rock without tweaking the opposite wheel. So, the wheels are free to move with less resistance and less impact on the rest of the vehicle. Big improvement.

Flex: I was with a buddy who has copied my build exactly (smart guy), but hasn't done the sway bar disconnects yet. We're both on full OME BP-51 systems with ARB Summit Bumpers, winches, GFCs. He doesn't have sliders, drawers, or a rear bumper though, so is a little lighter than me. My body stayed noticeably more level over obstacles than his did. That was especially useful when we got dead ended by an impassible snow drift, and had to back down the trail for half a mile or so before finding a place to turn around. My truck, with the sway bar disconnected, was just a lot more forgiving while I was backing over stuff with poor vision.

Refitting: Thought I was smart by pulling onto a level area to air up and reattach the links. Turns out it wasn't quite perfect. Had to push/pull the sway bar a little to get the links lined up correctly. Was a cinch on the first side, then once that link was on, the other side took a little muscle. Still, it was far from challenging and I had both links on in half the time it took my friend to air up a single axle using my Power Tank (which is very fast) and InDeflate Two Hose, which allows me to balance pressures across the axle while airing up/down two tires at once.

Verdict: Really happy so far. And everything appears to have remained tight through probably 200 road miles and 20 trail miles. In addition to airing down, pulling the end links really transforms how the Ranger performs on technical terrain. And then being able to stick them back on and air up meant I was able to tackle a twisty mountain road on the way home with as much speed and confidence as ever.

Thanks for making these guys. This is an excellent example of how a vehicle community can serve enthusiasts.

Any concerns with the extra droop causing any problems with CV joint operating at the increased angle, or binding on a ball joint tie rod end?

I'm running an extended travel ICON and APG setup with a Heim joint tie rod end (greater range of motion) ......would a limiter strap be necessary in any scenario ?...

 

[Wes Siler]

Any concerns with the extra droop causing any problems with CV joint operating at the increased angle, or binding on a ball joint tie rod end?

I'm running an extended travel ICON and APG setup with a Heim joint tie rod end (greater range of motion) ......would a limiter strap be necessary in any scenario ?...

I'm not worried at all on my stock length setup. Are your LCAs longer?

Also, your down travel is likely limited by that Icon uca fouling the shock tower. It's a feature, not a bug!

 

[Whiplash]

I'm not worried at all on my stock length setup. Are your LCAs longer?

Also, your down travel is likely limited by that Icon uca fouling the shock tower. It's a feature, not a bug!

I'm not worried at all on my stock length setup. Are your LCAs longer?

Also, your down travel is likely limited by that Icon uca fouling the shock tower. It's a feature, not a bug!

I have stock length LCA , and the APG Billet UCA. and Billet tie rod end with Heim joint... no binding on the shock, Before the tie rod replacement it appeared the stock ball joint end was maxed out and binding at full droop.. At this point only thing limiting more travel would be the sway bar...

 

[outlandish_ranger]

I have stock length LCA , and the APG Billet UCA. and Billet tie rod end with Heim joint... no binding on the shock, Before the tie rod replacement it appeared the stock ball joint end was maxed out and binding at full droop.. At this point only thing limiting more travel would be the sway bar...

I know another Ranger (George, white Ranger) with a full APG build and I know they don't run sway bars and haven't had an issue. If you are concerned I'd recommend maybe reaching out to APG and seeing what their thoughts are since they would be most familiar with their suspension setup.

 

[Wes Siler]

I have stock length LCA , and the APG Billet UCA. and Billet tie rod end with Heim joint... no binding on the shock, Before the tie rod replacement it appeared the stock ball joint end was maxed out and binding at full droop.. At this point only thing limiting more travel would be the sway bar...

Ah, I see the UCA now. Nice setup.

Pull the wheel and swaybar off and cycle the suspension. That should get you your answer.

 

[CO2Ranger]

I'd play around adjusting those tension nuts.

Nuts adjusted. Virtually silent now! Loving these.

 

[4x4AZ]

Just a quick review since I've put about 5k miles on my set now...

First, had a bit of an issue with shipping right off the bat, but Armando reached out and remedied it quickly and professionally which was appreciated

First, these are definitely louder/more noticeable when connected than the stock end links. That being said, you can tighten the nuts on these against the pins way harder than you would think and still have them be easy to remove. That quiets them down significantly compared to my "first attempt" of having things too loose. You will notice the sound on washboard but otherwise I find that with the radio on and the windows closed I don't notice it that much. I thought based on the design there might be more of an initial "harshness" in weight transfer/bar load, but that hasn't been the case for me.

As far as the performance difference - I am on the stock front coilovers with a 3" FordRangerLifts spacer (planning to upgrade with Fox 2.5 or possibly Kings, if I keep the ranger long term) and the ride difference connected vs disconnected is very noticeable. I just got back from a trip doing about 100 miles on Nevada dirt roads with high and low speed sandy, sweeping corners, and found the ride to be super comfortable. The "head bob" from hitting large washouts, ,ruts, etc is mostly gone! Made the truck feel significantly more "at home" in the type of terrain I was in. Looking forward to getting to try it out on some real rocks and more difficult obstacles soon. I do feel like I may have gained some downtravel (maybe an inch?), but I think I'm being limited by the stock coilovers at this point. If you had a set of aftermarket coilovers I'm sure you would see even more gains.

On road, running without the bar connected is sketchy with the stock struts. VERY soft and lots of body roll. But that's why these are so great! To be perfectly honest, if you had a very nice set of coilovers with some good adjustability for compression, I would *almost* say you could just remove the bar entirely without losing a lot. But on softer suspensions like stock or most of the 2.0 shocks on the market, these are a must have. Highly recommend for the price and glad I picked them up!

 

[shovonmshahriar]

Why there’re two end links in the set? Shouldn’t it be enough to disconnect the endinks on only one side?

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