One Piece Driveshaft

[RedDakooter05]

Well since adding 360lbs of Sandbags, I have noticed a significant increase in vibration and noise which the latter may be unrelated.


Bah.

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[CO2Ranger]

Single piece is installed. Smooth as a baby's ass.

Around town:


Getting on and off the highway:


The highway video may or may not contain speeds up to 105mph. At that point I'm more concerned about my tires than the driveshaft and I'd never go that fast anyway.

Also, the stock shaft had 8(!) weights on the larger shaft alone with 4 more on the smaller shaft.

Strongly feel like the stock shafts are shit from the get-go to be honest. The center bearing is doing the best it can but it's getting beat to death with all the play that's there.

 

[WNCblueridge]

It prob never happen but wish like hell Ford would do recall to replace or at least adequate fix. To do that they first acknowledge the problem is driveshaft related. Done with all the alignments and force balancing for now. Not doing the run around with Ford techs anymore either. Just frustrating when you drop over $30k savings to inherit a problem. I have bitched and moaned about this before but really just want to keep the truck if I can.

 

[MIBuckeye]

Catching back up on this thread....one thing that I am finding curios in the videos posted, consistent with the HD video I took of my drive shaft, is the amount of movement in the transmission. Not only is this apparent when shifting, but when the suspension front/rear is jarred. Cant help but wonder if this is yet another variable in this vibration. There just is so much movement in the driveline, it is so hard to visually see what is going on. I'm goin to video mine more tomorrow to see if there is a correlation and try to tag it when I sense the vibration.

 

[Jason B]

It prob never happen but wish like hell Ford would do recall to replace or at least adequate fix. To do that they first acknowledge the problem is driveshaft related. Done with all the alignments and force balancing for now. Not doing the run around with Ford techs anymore either. Just frustrating when you drop over $30k savings to inherit a problem. I have bitched and moaned about this before but really just want to keep the truck if I can.

If Ford is going to do a recall for two-piece drive shaft vibrations, then Toyota and Chevy need to also, as that type of vibration isn't solely Ford Ranger.

Anybody know what ROW Rangers use on DS? Those have been around longer than NA Rangers.
Is there a vibe problem reported in those?

 

[TJC]

I am not sure if they have the problem. But Ford modified the geometry of the USA truck; raised it up, softened the ride, and replaced the multi-leaf rear springs with the single parabolic leaf spring... among many other changes. The ROW trucks are not the same product.

The 2022 -2023 Australian Rangers appear to have some driveline shudder issues. I am not sure about the earlier models.

2022 Ford Ranger owners report tailshaft vibrations
Next Generation Ford Ranger Facing Teething Issue In Australia

 

[D Fresh]

I am not sure if they have the problem. But Ford modified the geometry of the USA truck; raised it up, softened the ride, and replaced the multi-leaf rear springs with the single parabolic leaf spring... among many other changes. The ROW trucks are not the same product.

The 2022 -2023 Australian Rangers appear to have some driveline shudder issues. I am not sure about the earlier models.

2022 Ford Ranger owners report tailshaft vibrations
Next Generation Ford Ranger Facing Teething Issue In Australia

FYI, the ROW Rangers sit higher in the rear than the US model.

 

[TJC]

I 've never seen an Australian Ford Ranger in person. I only know what I have read about them. I did just find this bit of info that mildly surprised me.

Rick Bolt: "The rear suspension geometry's the same. But where they have conventional leaf springs we have parabolic leaf springs. It essentially lets you take weight out of the rear springs to improve the unsprung weight and take some weight out of the truck."

If you can educate me on the differences I would be grateful, or point me to a source.

TIA
-T

 

[Fitzmotor]

I was hoping Shaun would comment on the calculations TJC did, the critical speed thing is all that's holding me up from adding his driveshaft to the top of the truck wish list.

 

[TJC]

I suspect that Shaun already knew these numbers, and is playing things very conservative to protect his business. A single law suit could severely damage his business. Ford has deep pockets and a large well trained staff of legal experts.

Even if Shaun doesn't reply, it is clear that the Spicer calculator rates the TW driveshaft superior to the Ford unit. The critical speed calculations show the Ford driveshaft exceeding

• Critical Speed at 75mph (Driveshaft RPM 3174 vs Critical Speed RPM 3092)
• 80% True Critical Speed at 105mph (Driveshaft RPM 4373 vs 80% True Critical Speed RPM 4402)
• Interestingly, if we use True Critical Speed 5502 Driveshaft RPM, the Ford Driveshaft easily exceeds the 120mph top speed +10% criteria at 90.1% of the True Critical Speed. Maybe this is the number Ford used in their calculatiosn?!?. (Pure conjecture)

TW Driveshaft cames in at:

• Exceeding Critical Speed at 105mph (Driveshaft RPM 4165 vs Critical Speed RPM 4152)
• At only 84% of True Critical Speed at 120mph (Driveshaft RPM 4990 vs 80% True Critical Speed RPM 5910)
• if we use True Critical Speed 7388 Driveshaft RPM, the TW Driveshaft easily exceeds the 120mph top speed +10% criteria at only 67.5% of the True Critical Speed.

The bottom two numbers in the chart below are easily calculated using simple math. Double 1/2 True Critical Speed to get True Critical Speed. Multiply True Critical Speed by 0.8 to arrive at 80% of True Critical Speed.

If you doubt my calculations then simply look at the Spicer Calculator Results on the driveshaft speeds. You can validate them yourself by entering in a few data points. I urge you not to take my word for it. Run the numbers yourself.

Spicer Driveshaft Critical Speed Calculator Link

The parameters entered into the calculator are as follows

• TW - 60" Single Piece Draftshaft 1350 U-Joints 4" tube diameter Type A
• Ford - 60" 2 Piece Driveshaft 1330 U-Joints 3" tube Diameter Type B
  (front shaft is 2.5", rear shaft is 3.5")

Once you get the results you are left several decisions. Do you:

1. Trust Ford Engineering to have delivered a safe factory driveshaft
2. If you trust Ford, then you must trust Spicer as the manufacturer of the Ford Driveshafts
3. Trust the Spicer Calculator to be able to discern (on a relative level) differences in performance of different driveshaft configurations.

I choose to trust all 3 statements.

But to each his own.

- T

 

[CO2Ranger]

I suspect that Shaun already knew these numbers, and is playing things very conservative to protect his business. A single law suit could severely damage his business. Ford has deep pockets and a large well trained staff of legal experts.

Even if Shaun doesn't reply, it is clear that the Spicer calculator rates the TW driveshaft superior to the Ford unit. The critical speed calculations show the Ford driveshaft exceeding

• Critical Speed at 75mph (Driveshaft RPM 3174 vs Critical Speed RPM 3092)
• 80% True Critical Speed at 105mph (Driveshaft RPM 4373 vs 80% True Critical Speed RPM 4402)
• Interestingly, if we use True Critical Speed 5502 Driveshaft RPM, the Ford Driveshaft easily exceeds the 120mph top speed +10% criteria at 90.1% of the True Critical Speed. Maybe this is the number Ford used in their calculatiosn?!?. (Pure conjecture)

TW Driveshaft cames in at:

• Exceeding Critical Speed at 105mph (Driveshaft RPM 4165 vs Critical Speed RPM 4152)
• At only 84% of True Critical Speed at 120mph (Driveshaft RPM 4990 vs 80% True Critical Speed RPM 5910)
• if we use True Critical Speed 7388 Driveshaft RPM, the TW Driveshaft easily exceeds the 120mph top speed +10% criteria at only 67.5% of the True Critical Speed.

The bottom two numbers in the chart below are easily calculated using simple math. Double 1/2 True Critical Speed to get True Critical Speed. Multiply True Critical Speed by 0.8 to arrive at 80% of True Critical Speed.

If you doubt my calculations then simply look at the Spicer Calculator Results on the driveshaft speeds. You can validate them yourself by entering in a few data points. I urge you not to take my word for it. Run the numbers yourself.

Spicer Driveshaft Critical Speed Calculator Link

The parameters entered into the calculator are as follows

• TW - 60" Single Piece Draftshaft 1350 U-Joints 4" tube diameter Type A
• Ford - 60" 2 Piece Driveshaft 1330 U-Joints 3" tube Diameter Type B
  (front shaft is 2.5", rear shaft is 3.5")

Once you get the results you are left several decisions. Do you:

1. Trust Ford Engineering to have delivered a safe factory driveshaft
2. If you trust Ford, then you must trust Spicer as the manufacturer of the Ford Driveshafts
3. Trust the Spicer Calculator to be able to discern (on a relative level) differences in performance of different driveshaft configurations.

I choose to trust all 3 statements.

But to each his own.

- T
I rushed this as I was preparing dinner... errors and typos may be present. Will recheck after dinner.

The real question is: do you trust Ford to remedy their mistake to your satisfaction?

At $700, I'd rather do it once and be done with it vs. letting a dealership hold my truck for a month and MAYBE solving the problem. And who knows how long their fix lasts? What if it's just a matter of time before you're right back where you started and out of warranty?

I know my time is more valuable than that and for $700 I have a reliable solution and can move on.

 

[TJC]

That was my conclusion

 

[Fitzmotor]

I'm sure the one piece is a better shaft, but way back in this thread somewhere Shaun stated something like, "if you drive fast, dont buy my driveshaft" not that I regularly go super fast, but if I want to, I'm the kind of guy to get paranoid about the 'what if'

His website states;
If you expect regular drive shaft speeds of above 4,000 rpm the stock carrier bearing style shaft is the type of shaft you should be running. These are already pushed limits!

So I will probably still get the shaft, and after a while I will forget about the speed thing, I was hoping somebody would validate the math used in the analysis.

I am curious about what a two piece shaft would do if it was timed, this whole un-timed factory shaft just baffles me.

I have dealt with many drive line vibrations, in lifted and lowered trucks and racecars, even some where the trans was lower than the rear end, or it was an offset chassis, and I adjusted the vibration out of my Ranger...... except when it's loaded, it still has a slight vibration on accell.

Somebody make a torque arm for the rear end, it would solve everything.

 

[CO2Ranger]

I'm sure the one piece is a better shaft, but way back in this thread somewhere Shaun stated something like, "if you drive fast, dont buy my driveshaft" not that I regularly go super fast, but if I want to, I'm the kind of guy to get paranoid about the 'what if'

His website states;
If you expect regular drive shaft speeds of above 4,000 rpm the stock carrier bearing style shaft is the type of shaft you should be running. These are already pushed limits!

So I will probably still get the shaft, and after a while I will forget about the speed thing, I was hoping somebody would validate the math used in the analysis.

I am curious about what a two piece shaft would do if it was timed, this whole un-timed factory shaft just baffles me.

I have dealt with many drive line vibrations, in lifted and lowered trucks and racecars, even some where the trans was lower than the rear end, or it was an offset chassis, and I adjusted the vibration out of my Ranger...... except when it's loaded, it still has a slight vibration on accell.

Somebody make a torque arm for the rear end, it would solve everything.

After running all the math myself, I'm confident that the single piece is safe easily to 120mph as @TJC has shown. No way in hell I'm going that fast and anyone not tuned CANT go that fast.

The video I posted that MAY be up to 105mph had 0 vibration and 0 signs of instability in the driveline even with the uneven roads. At those speeds you're doing silly things. With my tire size I would be at 1/2 critical speed right around 80mph. I've cruised at every speed around that and have yet to get any hint of instability or vibration.

 

[Jason B]

I'm sure the one piece is a better shaft, but way back in this thread somewhere Shaun stated something like, "if you drive fast, dont buy my driveshaft" not that I regularly go super fast, but if I want to, I'm the kind of guy to get paranoid about the 'what if'

His website states;
If you expect regular drive shaft speeds of above 4,000 rpm the stock carrier bearing style shaft is the type of shaft you should be running. These are already pushed limits!

So I will probably still get the shaft, and after a while I will forget about the speed thing, I was hoping somebody would validate the math used in the analysis.

I am curious about what a two piece shaft would do if it was timed, this whole un-timed factory shaft just baffles me.

I have dealt with many drive line vibrations, in lifted and lowered trucks and racecars, even some where the trans was lower than the rear end, or it was an offset chassis, and I adjusted the vibration out of my Ranger...... except when it's loaded, it still has a slight vibration on accell.

Somebody make a torque arm for the rear end, it would solve everything.

Somewhere in this 30 page thread or another, it was stated that Rangers are not the only ones to have u-joints out of time or phase. And I think it was done to eliminate a lot of vibrations and that "correcting" the phase/timing makes things worse.

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