On board Air setup on your Ranger

[RangerAl87]

Hi, just want to start a thread about onboard air and also to see other members setups.
I also wanted to share where I put mine and why I went with the ARB twin compressor.
It was abit of a pain trying to run wiring from battery to bed...but it’s all worth it in the end.
Some of you guys already know, I modded one of the factory swing out tool box to hold my ARB compressor.
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...m-swing-out-tool-boxes.2397/page-2#post-31548
Anyway, I’ve been lucky with ARB twin compressor in the past with my Jeeps, that’s why I chose to install it in the Ranger. Aside from airing up, I also like the versatility to be able to run air tools (135 up to 150 psi per ARB) when needed.
During a test I was surprised how quickly the Aircat/ ARB combo took a lug nut off with ease.

So please, If you have different locations or ideas for onboard air, you can share them here.
I know under the hood behind the drivers side headlight, there’s a small area that can prob fit a small compressor, but I couldn’t use it cause the ARB twin is huge. LoL.

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[jedirulez]

@KnightRanger would you please share a picture of where you connected the new wire on the positive terminal?

 

[Safaribill]

I just installed viair on board air using trigger six

 

[franciscoapg]

I just installed viair on board air using trigger six

Would you mind sharing a picture of how it's mounted under the bed? I'm about to hit click on OBA, but I'm not sure if I can make an ARB twin fit (I would really prefer 100% duty cycle), or if I need to go with the single.

 

[KnightRanger]

@KnightRanger would you please share a picture of where you connected the new wire on the positive terminal?

I apologize I have not checked this thread in a while since I sold my 19 Lariat.
Anyway, I had the Arb twin 40 amps fuse on a quick disconnect hooked up to the positive terminal.
(Its was in the first pic of my original post)

 

[KnightRanger]

So, Its been awhile since my Original post.
and I no longer have my 19 Lariat.

This time around instead of the ARB twin I decided to install my Viair 450P automatic compressor on my 20 Roush Ranger.

I love ARB but I also like VIAIR.
The 450P is way underrated imho.
Its 100% duty cycle but at slightly lower cfm compared to the ARB.

Its also way quieter, and runs on 23-27 amps, So it uses 30A fuse vs the ARB at 40A (x2 for the twin).

I already installed an Aux fuse box and have a 30 amp curcuit vacant, which was perfect for it.

The only Pain in the you know what...is wiring from engine bay to bed.
I chose to use the Driver side firewall grommet using the wiring tool.
(see pics).

This time around, instead if wiring from underneath the frame...
I decided to go from firewall to underneath the driver and passenger side door sill.
When you pop the door sill panels out carefully using trim tools, you would find the factory harness channel.(see pics)

Now for the exit...I decided to use the oem hole grommet behind the drivers seat,( passenger floor area). cut a small “x” and fit my aux wires.

I then followed the factory harness outside running from d/s frame rail, all the way to where the tow wire harness and into the bottom opening by right side the bed. ( see pics) Where I mounted the ViAir 450P.

I made sure to use wire looms and zip ties along the way.

I will try to get pics of the route from bottom around the bed rail.
But its basically the route of the Factory harness from near the fuel tank to the trailer tow hitch.

For ground I used the bolt near the right side/rear of the tow hitch.

I couldnt fininsh my entire install, coz it started raining.

My future plan is to add a 30A curcuit breaker next to the Viair compressor and Also mount a Viair fan to aid in cooling the compressor head.

But so far so good. I already tested it today airing up my wifes Subaru tires. lol

ETA: In case you’re wondering...the 2nd wire 14 ga (next to the 10 ga) is for an aux led light set for the Rear.
I figured, run the wires together now, save me time when I’m reeady to install my rear work/spot/ reverse aid lights.

 

[tehschkott]

Oh. Is that all?

 

[KnightRanger]

Oh. Is that all?

LoL

It will make sense once you start looking and figuring out where and how to run wires to the bed.

There‘s Not a lot of options...It‘s either run it from battery to under frame rails, or inside through firewall, then underneath and to the bed. The 2nd way is a lot cleaner/ safer imho.

I will try to post pics of where I ran the wires under the bed.
Weather’s been nasty here lately...rain, rain and tomorrow..lots of wind.

 

[tehschkott]

LoL

It will make sense once you start looking and figuring out where and how to run wires to the bed.

There‘s Not a lot of options...It‘s either run it from battery to under frame rails, or inside through firewall, then underneath and to the bed. The 2nd way is a lot cleaner/ safer imho.

I will try to post pics of where I ran the wires under the bed.
Weather’s been nasty here lately...rain, rain and tomorrow..lots of wind.

No, I get it. I'm impressed you went to the trouble to document it so well. Nicely done.

 

[KnightRanger]

So we finally got a break from the rain and windy week....
Got a chance to take some pics today of how I routed my wires.
( continued from above)

I use this wire loom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGWD11B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Not only does it protect your wire( heat and abrasion resistant)
It also blends in well with the factory wire harness.

 

[KnightRanger]

I‘m also testing these 2 items to see how they hold up.
(compared to my old workhorse ARB air hose in my original post, first page).

1. Dynamic safety coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CHX69J1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(bleeds excess air pressure, to safely disconnect air hose attachments).

2. Flexzilla 1/4” npt air hose. Heavy duty, Hybrid and lightweight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013OW6JIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will update you guys/gals if I run into any issues.

 

[KnightRanger]

Added quick disconnect for the compressor‘s wiring.
Also replaced the inline fuse with 30A circuit breaker.

So I think I’m done with my ViAir compressor setup.

 

[SafetyDan]

For those of you with your quick disconnect at the front and rear of your truck, you are going to collect crud in them. A quick trick I used on my jeep was to get PVC Threaded cap (I believe 1/2") then using my Dremmel with a sanding drum, I slowly removed the treads until it was a snug fit. Then I drilled a hole in the middle of the cap, inserted a piece of para cord with a stopper knot (on the inside, and siliconed it. The remaining of paradors I tied a slip knot around the rear of the fitting so I did not loose them.

 

[franciscoapg]

For those of you with your quick disconnect at the front of rear of your truck, you are going to collect crud in them. A quick trick I used on my jeep was to get PVC Threaded cap (I believe 1/2") then using my Dremmel with a sanding drum, I slowly removed the treads until it was a snug fit. Then I drilled a hole in the middle of the cap, inserted a piece of para cord with a stopper knot (on the inside, and siliconed it. The remaining of paradors I tied a slip knot around the rear of the fitting so I did not loose them.

That's a really good point @SafetyDan . Your option is probably more stout, with the benefit of being able to tie the loose paracord end to something on the truck so you don't loose it, but a member on here had used the cap linked below to cover off the quick disconnect ends and said it worked well. I tried searching but can't seem to find who did it (if anyone can remind me, please tag them here!) I'll be throwing a dual ARB compressor into the truck as soon as I can get some time to mock it up, and I think that's what I'll use at the quick disconnects, since it requires less fab (and I can easily replace them if a rip/loose one...haha).

Here is the link to amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE8FDWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_us5KEbK3KE4E7

 

[P. A. Schilke]

For those of you with your quick disconnect at the front of rear of your truck, you are going to collect crud in them. A quick trick I used on my jeep was to get PVC Threaded cap (I believe 1/2") then using my Dremmel with a sanding drum, I slowly removed the treads until it was a snug fit. Then I drilled a hole in the middle of the cap, inserted a piece of para cord with a stopper knot (on the inside, and siliconed it. The remaining of paradors I tied a slip knot around the rear of the fitting so I did not loose them.

Hi Dan,

You just caused me to remember another back story... I may had told this one before...old age. Anyway. We were having trouble with steering compliance creating a complaint on prototypes of the VN58 Econoline. We were using LVDT to measure compliance but the Arizona dust were fowling these transducers...so we were noodling this when I suggested we use condoms tie wrapped to the transduce body....They are tough...pretty much dust proof (well maybe) and so that night I bough a box of condoms at the drug store in Havasu. The condoms worked and we got our data as the LVDT remained dust free. So upon return to Dearborn, I filed my TER, Travel Expense Report, and dutifully attached receipts for Ford related expenses (no beer for example). Got the TERs signed off until they went to central accounting. Wow...talk about getting into a tizzy over condoms... I had great fun with these bean counters over that one. Had to write a letter that m boss had so sign to process the TER. Boss was almost in tears laughing when I presented him with the letter justifying that Ford Motor Co. ( uppity Snort) would purchase condoms!

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

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