oil change need new pins to hold rubber flap

[silverflash]

That's how I got two of the three out. That third one just would spin. Then and only then did I try the power one and cats paw etc. Even with it out of the truck, it won't come out. Lolol. As I said, I have 8 spares from the hood deflector install that I can use and also I have some different clips coming from amazon. Will migrate to a less temperamental clip if possible.

I need to correct this. The spares I have are from the rokblokz mudflap install. They came from the truck upper part where the flaps attach to. So I think I only have 4 spares. They seem to be identical to the ones used in the flap for oil filter access. Also, my local O'Reilly's had 1/4" ford screw rivets which look identical as well. Picked up a pack of 2 for 2.50$. Gonna change oil tonight and will report back. The other caveat about the change is the oil drain plug torque being the pan is aluminum. It's 20 ft lbs. I've dobe aluminum diffs and xfer cases that call for same torque values or in the ballpark and never had issues. And I do those once a year. As long as my torque wrench is close enough I should be good. I used it for spark plugs on my jeep last year. 17ft lbs. I usually hand tighten then set wrench to 5 ft lbs a d it should click. I raise it to 10, then 15. The will do 20. It should get there pretty fast. Prolly hand right then set to 5 as a test, 10,,15 should click. 20 may move a hair.

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[HenryMac]

I need to correct this. The spares I have are from the rokblokz mudflap install. They came from the truck upper part where the flaps attach to. So I think I only have 4 spares. They seem to be identical to the ones used in the flap for oil filter access. Also, my local O'Reilly's had 1/4" ford screw rivets which look identical as well. Picked up a pack of 2 for 2.50$. Gonna change oil tonight and will report back. The other caveat about the change is the oil drain plug torque being the pan is aluminum. It's 20 ft lbs. I've dobe aluminum diffs and xfer cases that call for same torque values or in the ballpark and never had issues. And I do those once a year. As long as my torque wrench is close enough I should be good. I used it for spark plugs on my jeep last year. 17ft lbs. I usually hand tighten then set wrench to 5 ft lbs a d it should click. I raise it to 10, then 15. The will do 20. It should get there pretty fast. Prolly hand right then set to 5 as a test, 10,,15 should click. 20 may move a hair.

Looking forward to you reporting back. 20 ft-lbs on the drain bolt just seems way to loose to me. I tighten it a bit more than that.

 

[silverflash]

Looking forward to you reporting back. 20 ft-lbs on the drain bolt just seems way to loose to me. I tighten it a bit more than that.

nope. as i said, i usually hand tighten these things snug where it should be tight enough. then i use the torque wrench to get it to spec. it should move some which means it's tighter than what i'd be comfortable leaving it at if i didn't have a torque wrench.

 

[HenryMac]

nope. as i said, i usually hand tighten these things snug where it should be tight enough. then i use the torque wrench to get it to spec. it should move some which means it's tighter than what i'd be comfortable leaving it at if i didn't have a torque wrench.

I agree.. But I'm betting when you snug the oil pan drain bolt by hand, it will already be over 20 ft-lbs. Let us know.

 

[silverflash]

finished the oil change. not too bad. as far as the drain plug. I snugged by hand to what i thought was tight then used the torque wrench set on 10, it clicked, 15 it clicked, 20, it seemed to maybe move a hair. 22 a hair more. figured that's tight enough to keep it from coming off. will know next time if 22 is good or not. i wonder if there is some sort of thing you can stick to your pan that would keep the bolt from backing out. almost like a retainer? this goes for any sketchy drain plug, not just the rangers.

 

[HenryMac]

finished the oil change. not too bad. as far as the drain plug. I snugged by hand to what i thought was tight then used the torque wrench set on 10, it clicked, 15 it clicked, 20, it seemed to maybe move a hair. 22 a hair more. figured that's tight enough to keep it from coming off. will know next time if 22 is good or not. i wonder if there is some sort of thing you can stick to your pan that would keep the bolt from backing out. almost like a retainer? this goes for any sketchy drain plug, not just the rangers.

You could cross drill the bolt and lock wire it.

https://www.wikihow.com/Drill-Bolts-for-Lock-Wiring

 

[Big Blue]

You could cross drill the bolt and lock wire it.

https://www.wikihow.com/Drill-Bolts-for-Lock-Wiring

Sounds like you have the fender well thing figured out. Just get yourself a Valvomax drain valve, torque it in once and never worry about it again. You won't even need to remove the skid plate to drain your oil. Lot less mess too.

 

[HenryMac]

Sounds like you have the fender well thing figured out. Just get yourself a Valvomax drain valve, torque it in once and never worry about it again. You won't even need to remove the skid plate to drain your oil. Lot less mess too.

@silverflash .. I think this post is for you.

 

[Big Blue]

@silverflash .. I think this post is for you.

Actually for anyone who cares.

 

[HenryMac]

Actually for anyone who cares.

I already have the mod for easy oil changes...

 

[Big Blue]

I already have the mod for easy oil changes...

Nice! Too bad not all of use can afford that or have the garages to put it in. Would make tire rotations a snap.

 

[Charley]

....one of those lifts will be my next power tool purchase. 40 plus years of crawling under a vehicle on dirt, gravel or concrete is enough.

 

[RAYJAY]

Sounds like you have the fender well thing figured out. Just get yourself a Valvomax drain valve, torque it in once and never worry about it again. You won't even need to remove the skid plate to drain your oil. Lot less mess too.

2nd this here one of the better mods i did ....

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