Oil change FUBAR.

[Sandman Ranger]

Oil extractor for removing some. Amazon.

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[meistreguy]

Me....I would have already been back at that dealership, with photos of that pan and puddle of oil on the floor. Direct to the service mgr and request that it be done, again, by another tech, the right way . And, have them clean up the mess to the truck area.
As mgr told you, bring it back in and give them a chance to make it right, with a proper tech, of course.
Oil....the blend is what they will use...probably don't have any full synth on hand.
Also check to see if they used a Motor Craft filter and not some off brand.
Just another reason why I have a Fumoto Valve, and change my own oil/filter.

Love my fumoto Valve!

 

[Grumpaw]

Hey Doc,
Thanks for the ideas. I actually tried No. 2 . I had stocked up on filters when I saw them on sale. Thats the Motorcraft FL-910S BTW. So having all these filters I thought that's an easy way to get some oil out. But NO. The dang filter is on so tight I could not make it budge. Again... no surprise, I guess.
However, I did check the torque on the lugs and happily found them to be right around the 100 ft/lbs. they should be. None lower and none over 110. Surprise, surprise!
Maybe tomorrow I will try the loosen the drain a few turns and let it dribble.
Glad this puppy sits high enough that I can do these things w/o jacks.

Before your next change look into getting a Fumoto F-107SX, or one of the other valves. Easy to drain just a bit if you need to, and makes oil changes a breeze.

 

[meistreguy]

Before your next change look into getting a Fumoto F-107SX, or one of the other valves. Easy to drain just a bit if you need to, and makes oil changes a breeze.

You can also get the hose to attach with it. I clamped a threaded end from a ligh fixture to keep it from glowing all over.

 

[raytwntrvlr]

Thanks Grumpaw, Fumoto F-107SX on the shopping list.

 

[Awg9Tech]

Yesterday I posted about a crummy oil change experience I had at Metro Ford in the Kansas City area. After getting home, I had spotted a small puddle of oil under the Ranger. So I crawled under to get a look and saw all kinds of oil on the skid plate. This morning I pulled it and saw this:

Pretty obvious the oil change guy had not taken the plate off and just drained the oil onto it. Nasty. Has anyone else had this happen? Anyway, I checked the oil level and saw it quite high on the dipstick. So, I am wondering the best way to get it where it should be. I am tempted to just drain and refill. I had requested full synthetic but I see on the receipt they used the blend.

I am also going to check the torque on my lug nuts as this same guy did the tire rotate.

BTW... when I emailed the service writer, he offered to clean it up if I would bring it by. Also, he claimed the tech was his newest employee. No surprise there.

They just don’t care.

When I ordered my truck, I added the trailer brake controller and dash cam.

When the truck came in, the trailer brake controller was first. They left about 3ft of extra wire hanging down in the drivers foot well and ripped the drivers door weather seal. They “fixed” the weather seal by taking it off and rotating it so that the rip was less noticeable.

When they installed the dash cam, they left wires hanging down from the headliner, dinted and chipped the door.

The “new” of my new truck didn’t last 2 weeks.

 

[9zero1790]

They just don’t care.

When I ordered my truck, I added the trailer brake controller and dash cam.

When the truck came in, the trailer brake controller was first. They left about 3ft of extra wire hanging down in the drivers foot well and ripped the drivers door weather seal. They “fixed” the weather seal by taking it off and rotating it so that the rip was less noticeable.

When they installed the dash cam, they left wires hanging down from the headliner, dinted and chipped the door.

The “new” of my new truck didn’t last 2 weeks.

things like this is why i never get anything added to a car when buying from the dealer.i take them as they left the factory only. one dealer ive bought 3 new fords from even has a "accessories manager" which really means high pressure sales person to add on to the note... that trys to add on a bunch of crap when you buy a car before they let you go do paper work. He remembered me by the third car and didnt try. I dont fault the folks for trying to make a living. but if your gonna sell parts and service do it correctly.

 

[5thranger]

Yesterday I posted about a crummy oil change experience I had at Metro Ford in the Kansas City area. After getting home, I had spotted a small puddle of oil under the Ranger. So I crawled under to get a look and saw all kinds of oil on the skid plate. This morning I pulled it and saw this:

Pretty obvious the oil change guy had not taken the plate off and just drained the oil onto it. Nasty. Has anyone else had this happen? Anyway, I checked the oil level and saw it quite high on the dipstick. So, I am wondering the best way to get it where it should be. I am tempted to just drain and refill. I had requested full synthetic but I see on the receipt they used the blend.

I am also going to check the torque on my lug nuts as this same guy did the tire rotate.

BTW... when I emailed the service writer, he offered to clean it up if I would bring it by. Also, he claimed the tech was his newest employee. No surprise there.

Take it back, demand synthetic, demand cleanup, demand someone else.

 

[OregonRangerTremor]

kind of unfortunate it’s come to that, but you are probably right about putting it on paper.

Sign of the times. I remind them to put the skid plate back on, clean up the oil and to not run it through a car wash. I usually take a small box of doughnuts and leave it for the tech too. They remember the truck and maybe handle it a little nicer. Every mechanic likes a doughnut!

 

[Zaph]

I think the thing that annoys me about the oil changes I get at my dealer is that every single time they neglect to replace the bottom 3 rubber flap retaining screws in the wheel well. Like I won't notice. Every. Single. Time. I know right away on a hard left turn as I exit the lot and my upsized BFG AT KO2's rub on the flaps.

Last time I took it in, the replacements I put in were flourescent green, as if to say.. "yeah: these are the retainers you keep leaving out, you moron" but it doesn't help.

 

[JustSteve]

I like how I take my Ranger in with the tire air pressure in spec and leave with the tires overinflated. Every single time!

 

[Warlockez]

Yesterday I posted about a crummy oil change experience I had at Metro Ford in the Kansas City area. After getting home, I had spotted a small puddle of oil under the Ranger. So I crawled under to get a look and saw all kinds of oil on the skid plate. This morning I pulled it and saw this:

Pretty obvious the oil change guy had not taken the plate off and just drained the oil onto it. Nasty. Has anyone else had this happen? Anyway, I checked the oil level and saw it quite high on the dipstick. So, I am wondering the best way to get it where it should be. I am tempted to just drain and refill. I had requested full synthetic but I see on the receipt they used the blend.

I am also going to check the torque on my lug nuts as this same guy did the tire rotate.

BTW... when I emailed the service writer, he offered to clean it up if I would bring it by. Also, he claimed the tech was his newest employee. No surprise there.

I have had a similar experience with Metro Ford, Dick Smith Ford (Now Greenway Ford) in Raytown, and Rob Sight Ford in Martin City/Kansas City. I finally found 2 good dealers in the area. Bob Sight Ford in Lee's Summit, and Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park. I have also heard good things about Louisburg Ford but I have personally not had any dealings with them.

Hopefully that gives you a couple of options

 

[Apples]

The truth is, this isn't a new experience, save for this poster. It is getting to the point, dealers, retailers, you name it, can't afford qualified help to do the job. Anyone could put a political slant on this, but that alone is a very small part of the issue. It all boils down to money!

My last oil change was just under $80. On this bill were items like environmental disposal fees and shop supplies. Then there are the manufacturers' requirements for certain filters, oils, seals, and the list goes on. Dealers are doing their best to be competitive. But paying $40+ per hour for qualified help places them in a non competitive position. While $80 is outrageous monies to pay for an oil change (it is really more than just oil!), if we paid for a certified mechanic to do the job, the cost would over $100!

(I won't get into the argument about subsidies to support the monies lost by electric car divisions, because that is a real can of worms!)

 

[emesel]

Here's my experience, posted July 23, 2023:
I'm 70. When I bought my 2019 Ranger in 2019 I decided to buy the Premium Maintenance Plan because I didn't want to be crawling underneath my vehicles any more (been working on cars since I was 15); I'm just not enthusiastic about the up and down on the ground. I had the first oil/filter change near where I worked. When I brought it in to a different dealer for the second, the guy asked me if this was my first oil change. Apparently, the other dealer didn't change the filter the first time the oil was changed (factory filters have different markings).
So, now I mark the date on the filter after they replace it, and I check to ensure they put all the fasteners back in the splash guard.
Fast forward to a month ago. I check after they give me the truck back and I find oil dripping all over the place, a big, oily footprint on the door sill above the rocker panel, and everything that was in the glove box is now on the floor in front of the passenger seat ... along with the mechanic's (I use this term loosely) pry tool (apparently he needed this to change the cabin filter, which is included in my maintenance plan???).
I called the service manager out to look at the mess. He couldn't help but agree these things shouldn't have happened. It took his crew two tries to wipe the underneath to my liking (not that it was good, I just gave up).
When I got home, I looked more closely, and I saw the mechanic just tore the splash guard to access the filter; didn't remove any of the fasteners holding it on. So, I called the service manager and asked him to order me a new one. Long story a bit short, the new splash guard was just installed, but they didn't install all the fasteners that hold it on, which I specifically mentioned to the service manager. So, another 15 minutes later I was able to leave.
So, I don't currently perform my own oil changes on the Ranger, but I wish I did. I do perform my own service on my Accord (oil, filter, brakes, trans fluid/filter, tire rotation).

 

[Canadian Ranger]

What

Yesterday I posted about a crummy oil change experience I had at Metro Ford in the Kansas City area. After getting home, I had spotted a small puddle of oil under the Ranger. So I crawled under to get a look and saw all kinds of oil on the skid plate. This morning I pulled it and saw this:

Pretty obvious the oil change guy had not taken the plate off and just drained the oil onto it. Nasty. Has anyone else had this happen? Anyway, I checked the oil level and saw it quite high on the dipstick. So, I am wondering the best way to get it where it should be. I am tempted to just drain and refill. I had requested full synthetic but I see on the receipt they used the blend.

I am also going to check the torque on my lug nuts as this same guy did the tire rotate.

BTW... when I emailed the service writer, he offered to clean it up if I would bring it by. Also, he claimed the tech was his newest employee. No surprise there.

What I do is take my own oil & filter with me. I know seasoned mechanics who don't know the difference between Full Synthetic and Blend. 99% of garages tell you what they have in the barrel out back is the best anyway, regardless.

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