Observations From a Trip Towing.....

[TJC]

I have noticed that the cooler the transmission fluid has been the better the shifts.

Thank You!

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[J Krutsch]

I am about 3,000 miles into a 6 week trip to tour some of the Nat'l parks. Trailer is 5,500 lbs and the truck has been doing an amazing job. Pull at 60 mph most of the time and get about 10 mpg on average. This drops to 8 at 65 or with a head wind, and bumps to 12 with a tail wind. Went over Wolf Creek pass. Not nearly as bad as the song says. Went over Monarch pass. 11,300+ feet. One strange thing on the downhill run (-3000 ft in 9 miles). The truck decided 3rd gear was best and it worked well. Only had to add breaks for 35 and 40 mpg corners. The strange part was that near the bottom the engine temp gage was just slightly above Cold. Once gas was applied at the bottom it popped back up, but have never seen that before.

 

[TJC]

That's a great trip and beautiful area. Great views from both Wolf Creek and Monarch passes. Good to hear your Ranger is doing so well.

How far between fill ups? Is that 5500 lbs loaded or empty?

 

[ctechbob]

That's a great trip and beautiful area. Great views from both Wolf Creek and Monarch passes. Good to hear your Ranger is doing so well.

How far between fill ups? Is that 5500 lbs loaded or empty?

If there's a downside to towing with a Ranger it is the fuel tank. I know on our recent Disney trip I plotted out 3 fuel stops on the way down and back. I plan for 120-150 miles on a tank. In reality, that actually works well since you're never making additional stops to use the restroom or anything since everyone can get out and do what they need to while you're getting fuel.

An annoyance though is that the truck doesn't recalculate the estimated range until empty. We made it to Disney with about 1/2 a tank on board, but 60 miles to empty showing. We drove 10 miles and the truck started complaining that we were less than 50 to empty, when really it should have been well more than that since we were driving around sans trailer. Minor annoyance, but still.

 

[J Krutsch]

That's a great trip and beautiful area. Great views from both Wolf Creek and Monarch passes. Good to hear your Ranger is doing so well.

How far between fill ups? Is that 5500 lbs loaded or empty?

5,500 lbs is loaded. I figure 150 miles or less between fill ups. That seems to be a safe number.

 

[Grumpaw]

Small tank is a bit of a bummer, and we get the same 9-10 mpg when towing, and 150 miles between fill-ups is about right.
We have found, whether in our previous class c, or now towing the Jayco, about 3 hours is enough time in between breaks. Also have found, that unless your on a non-stop trip trying to make time and mileage, that no matter the speed limit on the X-Ways, you will average around 50 mph. That takes into account stopping for fuel, food, pottie breaks, dog walking, ect. So, stopping every 3 hours is no problem.
On the back secondary US roadways, speed is usually around 45-55 mph, and mpg goes up a bit, but we still stop every 3 hours/150 miles for a break.

 

[ctechbob]

Small tank is a bit of a bummer, and we get the same 9-10 mpg when towing, and 150 miles between fill-ups is about right.
We have found, whether in our previous class c, or now towing the Jayco, about 3 hours is enough time in between breaks. Also have found, that unless your on a non-stop trip trying to make time and mileage, that no matter the speed limit on the X-Ways, you will average around 50 mph. That takes into account stopping for fuel, food, pottie breaks, dog walking, ect. So, stopping every 3 hours is no problem.
On the back secondary US roadways, speed is usually around 45-55 mph, and mpg goes up a bit, but we still stop every 3 hours/150 miles for a break.

LOL, I never really sat down and calculated our average speed for a trip. I plugged in the numbers from our recent trip.

speed = 49.8477 miles per hour

Too funny @Grumpaw

We were on I75 the majority of the way running ~70mph.

 

[Raygunn]

Returned just this afternoon from a trip towing our travel trailer. Total towing was 1851 miles, and that was towing the trailer the entire time....no solo.
Met friends and were using their Toyo Crew Cab Tacoma as my Ranger is a Scab.
Overall, mileage was 9.8 mpg via the Rangers info and 9.7 via my installed Scan Gauge 3. This was using 91 and 93 octane, and running 60-65 mph on interstates and 50-55 on US highways.
Ran into lots of wind, rain, long grades, ect, and Truck never missed a beat.
Important info....ran mostly in 7th gear, keeping rpm's up around 2600-2700 at speed. Found this eliminated lugging and gave faster acceleration when needed, and mileage did not seem to be worse.
I found that via the Scan Gauge the coolant and tranny fluid temps were usually very close to each other, usually between 195 to 205 degrees. The temps were actually a bit cooler in 7th gear rather in the 10 th overdrive gears. I guess the low rpm's when towing a heavy trailer tend to heat the fluids more due to lugging.
Coolant temps never got above 205, but tranny temp did get up to 211 while running into a strong head wind going up a long grade.....but it comes down and cools to 200-205 quickly.
My trailer is right at 7000 lbs, and Truck did an admirable job towing , not one problem.
Just posting for those of you who tow a heavy trailer...once you set it up right the Ranger is a capable tow vehicle with no problems as far as overheating or trans fluid problems.

Excellent write-up. I've just upgraded to a Salem FSX at 4500/460tw loaded and 400 (passengers+gear) in the truck, no mods so far. If I'm correct you've installed rear shocks, blue Sumos, and Roadmaster Active Suspension. I'm planning the same and was wondering which one of these improvements made the biggest difference for your truck.... I'll have to save up for these mods a little at a time. I've read lots of your posts and responses, lots of good stuff, appreciate all the advice.

 

[Raygunn]

I am about 3,000 miles into a 6 week trip to tour some of the Nat'l parks. Trailer is 5,500 lbs and the truck has been doing an amazing job. Pull at 60 mph most of the time and get about 10 mpg on average. This drops to 8 at 65 or with a head wind, and bumps to 12 with a tail wind. Went over Wolf Creek pass. Not nearly as bad as the song says. Went over Monarch pass. 11,300+ feet. One strange thing on the downhill run (-3000 ft in 9 miles). The truck decided 3rd gear was best and it worked well. Only had to add breaks for 35 and 40 mpg corners. The strange part was that near the bottom the engine temp gage was just slightly above Cold. Once gas was applied at the bottom it popped back up, but have never seen that before.

Nice looking rig! Did you make any suspension mods for towing that?

 

[Grumpaw]

Excellent write-up. I've just upgraded to a Salem FSX at 4500/460tw loaded and 400 (passengers+gear) in the truck, no mods so far. If I'm correct you've installed rear shocks, blue Sumos, and Roadmaster Active Suspension. I'm planning the same and was wondering which one of these improvements made the biggest difference for your truck.... I'll have to save up for these mods a little at a time. I've read lots of your posts and responses, lots of good stuff, appreciate all the advice.

Shocks were a big improvement over the OE. My Ranger is a 2 wheel drive, so it was very noticeable. Tied with that is the Roadmaster Active Suspension. It takes the place of any type of helper springs, sway bars, and air bags....very noticeable with my heavy hitch weight. Blue Sumo's get rid of any sharp "jarring" when I hit a pot hole or any change in road surface .
The Yokohama 10 ply tires got rid of any "squishey" feel that was very noticeable with my OE 2 ply Bridgestone's. Those were nothing more than big car tires....2 ply tires should never be used on a truck.
Your trailer is much lighter than my or some others here, so I would recommend the shocks first, but only if you feel the OE shocks are too "light" for a load. Otherwise, the Roadmaster would be first choice when $$$ allows.

 

[J Krutsch]

Nice looking rig! Did you make any suspension mods for towing that?

I added a rear sway bar (some improvement) and Bilstein shocks on all 4 (huge improvement). Otherwise it's stock.

 

[Racket]

I got curious on how to further improve the rear suspension after switching to the ROW springs although there seems to be consensus there may be more squat with a load. I've long ago went with the Eibach shocks in the rear and wondered if there are even better options available but the idea of maintaining reservoir units is off-putting.

This brought me to this thread with @Grumpaw using the Roadmaster system. Expensive at over $500 and for my mixed use I don't know if I could justify the cost though the sales pitch is interesting.

Interesting note in this review on their site is the accessory raised the rear an inch... oh no. Is there anyone else who has sprung for this and long term what are your experiences?

 

[Grumpaw]

I got curious on how to further improve the rear suspension after switching to the ROW springs although there seems to be consensus there may be more squat with a load. I've long ago went with the Eibach shocks in the rear and wondered if there are even better options available but the idea of maintaining reservoir units is off-putting.

This brought me to this thread with @Grumpaw using the Roadmaster system. Expensive at over $500 and for my mixed use I don't know if I could justify the expense though the sales pitch is interesting.

Interesting note in this review on their site is the accessory raised the rear an inch... oh no. Is there anyone else who has sprung for this and long term what are your experiences?

Racket, all I can tell you is that they work. Yeah, raised the rear about an inch, but so do any larger size tires that many install.
Price...relative to anything else....cheaper than a rear sway bar, but takes the place of one. Cheaper than a good set of rear airbags, but takes the place of them. So if you were planning on getting either of those, than the Roadmaster is a better mod. Also acts as a traction bar set up. It's a passive system until you load up the rear, or like a sway bar, go into a curve or corner, than it becomes noticeable.
What I should have done prior to my install was to measure how much the rear dropped when I put 700 lb tongue weight on the hitch, and re-do the measurement after I installed the Roadmaster system.....should have but didn't think of it till after.

 

[Racket]

Racket, all I can tell you is that they work. Yeah, raised the rear about an inch, but so do any larger size tires that many install.
Price...relative to anything else....cheaper than a rear sway bar, but takes the place of one. Cheaper than a good set of rear airbags, but takes the place of them. So if you were planning on getting either of those, than the Roadmaster is a better mod. Also acts as a traction bar set up. It's a passive system until you load up the rear, or like a sway bar, go into a curve or corner, than it becomes noticeable.
What I should have done prior to my install was to measure how much the rear dropped when I put 700 lb tongue weight on the hitch, and re-do the measurement after I installed the Roadmaster system.....should have but didn't think of it till after.

Sounds good and I would think the independent nature of the Roadmasters would be more desirable and safer when driving unladen. I would just prefer not to raise the rear any more than I have. I suppose that would be unavoidable unless Roadmaster has a solution or if it's a part of the installation?

 

[Grumpaw]

Racket, all I can tell you is that they work. Yeah,han it becomes noticeable.

Sounds good and I would think the independent nature of the Roadmasters would be more desirable and safer when driving unladen. I would just prefer not to raise the rear any more than I have. I suppose that would be unavoidable unless Roadmaster has a solution.

It's just something I accept. No "fix" for it that I know of. Read thru their site, and owners statements, indicate almost all makes/models had rear raised a bit.
Also went to a slightly larger tire size in a 10 ply tire, and it was an inch larger diameter, so 1/2 inch higher. I also have a 2 wheel drive, with upgraded shocks and Sumo Blues, but my springs are stock.

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