My dad taught me how to drive and stick shift on a John Deere 2020... when I was about 10 years old.
Av8or1 sold their ranger a bit ago: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/buy-my-ranger.35816/
Well of course he did...
To have gone that far into a swap and then sell... wonder what triggered that decision.... 
Those parts are for my landrover, not for the Ranger. I just noticed it would be a pretty easy swap while doing my landrover project.Well of course he did...
It would be a dream to have that 7spd manual on my Ranger. Im following this threadAlright since this hasn't been done before and it seems like there is a LOT of interest, I thought I would at least draw up a blueprint for how to do it based on what I currently understand. I will add to this thread as I learn more and I encourage anyone else that's ready to undertake this to share details as well.
Since I think this thread will be looked at for a longtime to come, let me do a quick little intro. I'm an Automation engineer (think robots) working for a small integrator that does a fair bit of work with Ford. My 2019 FX4 Lariat is the first one my dealer sold, I bought it in April of 2019 and have put 55k mostly trouble free miles on it since, as far as styling goes I don't think there is a better looking truck on the market (no not even the 6g ranger), but the only downfall to it in my mind is the lack of a manual transmission option. I plan to eventually swap in a Bronco Getrag MT88 7 speed manual transmission into the Ranger, but first I either need to have my 10R80 fail, or finish up my project off-roader.
I also have a 1997 Land Rover Discovery that I bought without an engine or transmission and am in the process of putting in a 2.3L Ecoboost + Bronco MT88 Transmission. This is chronicled here:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/2-3eco-in-a-disco.28883/
Below is going to be a parts list, as well as annotations of what needs to be done for installation. I will highlight what I do not yet know, but I also aim to dispel a lot of the misconceptions about this transmission as well as swapping transmissions in modern vehicles. Some of these tasks can be done while the vehicle is still drivable to minimize downtime. To keep this thread readable, I will post pictures in another post. If I didn't have to purchase an item, I won't have the part number, but will call that out. I am not associated with any of the companies for parts that I am listing, this is simply a list of how I plan to execute this project.
Here we go!
Transmission:
Getrag MT88. I would encourage you to purchase one from a junkyard because it will come with more components. Mine came with the full clutch assembly, as well as the shift cables, and came out of a Bronco that was rolled with 200 miles on it, so it is essentially new. These transmissions aren't super common so you may need to be patient. This is a cable shift transmission so the shifter in vehicle is attached via push/pull cable to the transmission. This has the big advantage of giving a lot of leeway in placement.
If your transmission didn't come with shift cables, you can buy them from Ford (you can look up the part number), or purchase a push/pull cable from McMaster-Carr and a 10mm ball end. The Rod ends you connect to on the transmission are 10mm balls.
The transmission will bolt directly up to the 2.3L ecoboost engine, as well as the stock transfer case in the Ranger. I will confirm shortly, but I believe the overall length of the transmission is nearly identical. You will need a flywheel and a clutch from a Bronco if your junkyard trans didn't come with one. You will also need a pilot bearing for the 2.3L ecoboost. All 2.3L ecoboosts are able to accept this pilot bearing. You will also need to remove and cap off the transmission cooler lines for the automatic from the Ranger.
Bronco MT7 Getrag MT88 Transmission: Purchased from Junkyard
Pilot Bearing: D4ZZ7600A
Clutch Flywheel Bolts: 8G9Z00812A
Shift Cables: (Came on my junkyard transmission)
Clutch & Flywheel: (Came on my junkyard transmission)
Bell Housing Bolts: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7007AHDW/bellhousing-hardware-kit-10r80
Clutch:
All of the clutch pedal work can be done while the vehicle is still driveable. I selected the Bronco clutch pedal because I know the master cylinder and connections are appropriate to the throwout bearing on the transmission. You can choose to fit a different pedal at your own risk. This portion of the project will require custom fabrication. The clutch pedal is very large and will need to be cut down and custom fabricated to fit the mount into the ranger, and then the pedal will also need to be cut down to fit properly. An oblong hole will need to be cut in the firewall to pass through the clutch hosing & grommet (PN Below). On the Bronco this connects into the brake fluid reservoir, however I will be using an independent reservoir out of simplicity. I have included the part number for the fitting to connect the reservoir directly to the Ford clutch hosing. It is theoretically possible to use the T6 overseas ranger clutch pedal, but I do not have knowledge of this or modifications required to make it work with the Bronco Trans.
Bleeding the clutch is done on the fitting that immediately protrudes from the transmission. There is a small barb fitting on it with a rubber cover.
Clutch Pedal Assembly: MB3Z7519A
Clutch Hosing (reservoir to clutch pedal): MB3Z7T504A
Clutch Hosing (Clutch Pedal to transmission): (Came on my junkyard transmission)
Clutch fluid reservoir: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-12697
Clutch fluid reservoir fitting: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-11266
Shifter:
There are several compatible shifters for the transmission that Ford sells due to different trim levels in the Bronco. I just purchased the one that wasn't backordered, but any of them will do.
Yes you will have to hack apart your center console to make this work. This will require custom fabrication. I would then recommend getting a laser cut, or 3D printed panel to overlay over the center console that is cut apart to make it look nice again. You will need to remove the existing shifter, and make a hole large enough for the shift assembly.
Part Number: MB3Z-7210-V
Be sure to mark on the shift assembly and transmission what orientation the cables need to go in to make sure this works properly. There are two levers on the transmission, the big silver one is for left/right on the shifter and the black one is for front/back. You can spin the input shaft and select the gears by hand with the transmission out to understand which gear is which and then deduce which direction the cables need to be mounted. Reverse is of course the most obvious.
Electronics:
I of course have not done this, so there are some questions to be answered in the electrical realm.
Okay so here is the part that is going to both be the trickiest but also has the most misinformation. Yes it is a modern vehicle, but no the transmission is not integrally tied to the ECU. The MT88 transmission also requires NO electrical inputs to function properly. After doing this swap, you will almost certainly get a check engine/transmission light, but that does not make the vehicle undriveable. At the time of writing I do not know what is required to make that light go away. I also do not know how to get the vehicle to register that it is in reverse.
The vehicle DOES require it to be in park to start the engine so you can swap this signal with the clutch depressed sensor which is built into the Bronco clutch pedal. Or you can maybe jumper the signal out somewhere.
An alternative would be to get another ECU. 2.3L ecoboost swapping is becoming very popular and there are several ECU's out there, many of which are compatible with manual transmissions. The one I purchased for my project is from Ford and comes with its own clutch depressed switch.
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6017-23T
I'm hopeful that this can be a collaborative project for all of us to learn and figure it out to make our trucks the absolute coolest on the planet.
He sold his Ranger. See post #20 above.
