Low oil pressure warning

[Grumpz]

Any updates on the issue? I had the same issue this morning, leaving work after a 12 hour shift. Cranked up and low oil pressure light with check engine light. Dealer told me they didn't see anything wrong with wiring. Replaced fuse. On the way home, 30 minutes later, fuse blew again when I accelerated to pass a slow truck. It's beyond my knowledge to track down an electrical issue in the wiring harness and I can't imagine the diagnostic and labor charge for that. Truck only has 20k miles on it but is 4 years old so I only have the power train warranty left. Any insight to this or an update if you've got anymore info would be much appreciated.

Received a low oil pressure warning on start up. Scanner revealed 5 codes:
- P06DB - engine oil pressure control circuit low
- P0034 - turbo bypass valve A control circuit low
- P06A0 - variable A/C compressor control circuit
- P2602 - coolant pump A control circuit low
- P2682 - engine coolant bypass valve A control circuit low

Gave her an oil change (some comments that oil nearing end of life could cause oil pressure issue on this engine), no joy. I also don't see any way to see actual oil pressure from PCM. I have a nice Autel MX808 scanner, the Ford app has no live data (that I can find anyway).

My first move would normally be swapping in a new oil pressure sensor but, only 12K on the truck and that's a lot of codes to all be secondary. Appreciate any experience, advice the community has on this.

Received a low oil pressure warning on start up. Scanner revealed 5 codes:
- P06DB - engine oil pressure control circuit low
- P0034 - turbo bypass valve A control circuit low
- P06A0 - variable A/C compressor control circuit
- P2602 - coolant pump A control circuit low
- P2682 - engine coolant bypass valve A control circuit low

Gave her an oil change (some comments that oil nearing end of life could cause oil pressure issue on this engine), no joy. I also don't see any way to see actual oil pressure from PCM. I have a nice Autel MX808 scanner, the Ford app has no live data (that I can find anyway).

My first move would normally be swapping in a new oil pressure sensor but, only 12K on the truck and that's a lot of codes to all be secondary. Appreciate any experience, advice the community has on this.

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[Shammy]

Any updates on the issue? I had the same issue this morning, leaving work after a 12 hour shift. Cranked up and low oil pressure light with check engine light. Dealer told me they didn't see anything wrong with wiring. Replaced fuse. On the way home, 30 minutes later, fuse blew again when I accelerated to pass a slow truck. It's beyond my knowledge to track down an electrical issue in the wiring harness and I can't imagine the diagnostic and labor charge for that. Truck only has 20k miles on it but is 4 years old so I only have the power train warranty left. Any insight to this or an update if you've got anymore info would be much appreciated.

Yes, I had a blown fuse. F12 I think .. it's been awhile. Replaced it, no issues since.

 

[Grumpz]

Yes, I had a blown fuse. F12 I think .. it's been awhile. Replaced it, no issues since.

Dang that's unfortunate. Well, for me anyways lol Same thing here only it keeps blowing fuses ?

 

[Shammy]

Sorry I couldn't be more help Justin.

 

[airline tech]

Look at this, Thread

So i drove my 2019 straight to the dealership when had loss of power bogging and dash lighting up... seen its the tube sensor thing going to clutch fa | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


The Fan Clutch is on that circuit as well, pay attention to the hose and wire harness for broken / damage

 

[john255]

Thanks for the thread. I just confirmed that I had this same issue with blown 12 fuse. 2019 XLT 105k miles. Last night I picked up my wife from her office and she complained that it was too hot in the cab. Go figure. Climate control is set to auto dual side with temp set to 70. It is about 55 degrees outside. Air is blowing a nice cool temp out of my vents. She says it is blowing hot air. Sure enough, her vents are blowing warm air. I start to turn down the temp on her side until it blows cool. I end up turning her side down to 60 before the air temp changes. Not 20 seconds later I get the low oil pressure warning. Checked DTCs this morning and found this thread and replaced the fuse. I'll report back once I know more. Thanks, everyone for posting.

Update: blew the fuse again.

 

[Shammy]

Unless you use a larger fuse . Joking. Agree, chasing electrical ghosts is no fun tho. Need to see how intermittent this is. I’ll keep this thread updated as the story unfolds.

Just a quick update as it’s been a year since I opened this thread. I have not had an issue since replacing F12. Yes, I know I just jinxed myself.

 

[Big Blue]

I think I finally found the PID that works on our trucks. It was on the F150gen14 forum. I plugged it into my Torque Pro app and it works and the values look like I member from Forscan. I need to fire them up side by side and verify. But here it is if anyone else wants to try it.

 

[Msfitoy]

Bottom left...

 

[ctechbob]

I think I finally found the PID that works on our trucks. It was on the F150gen14 forum. I plugged it into my Torque Pro app and it works and the values look like I member from Forscan. I need to fire them up side by side and verify. But here it is if anyone else wants to try it.

Can confirm that it displays what looks like valid OP data.

Looks to run between about 27psi and a smidge over 50 on my truck. As I recall, our pumps are ECU controlled and that looks to be the case.

 

[Grumpz]

Well here I am over a year later. Fan clutch was replaced along with blown fuses and oil pressure sensor. Now I get just the low oil pressure indicator light and car eventually goes into limp mode, dealership had two master techs look it over and attempt to troubleshoot, called a Ford engineer and their solution is to replace the entire engine wiring harness which will NOT be covered under powertrain warranty and will cost me 2300 bucks with only 43k miles on this thing. I’m done with it after this, definitely trading it in somewhere.

 

[TJC]

Well here I am over a year later. Fan clutch was replaced along with blown fuses and oil pressure sensor. Now I get just the low oil pressure indicator light and car eventually goes into limp mode, dealership had two master techs look it over and attempt to troubleshoot, called a Ford engineer and their solution is to replace the entire engine wiring harness which will NOT be covered under powertrain warranty and will cost me 2300 bucks with only 43k miles on this thing. I’m done with it after this, definitely trading it in somewhere.

The more complex the plumbing the easier it is to stop it up. IMO, Too much computer control too quickly. It works great until it doesn't. Simply too many points of failure, even for simple tasks /processes. How much efficiency gained by monitoring the clutch fan speed with a computer? Is the tradeoff really worth it?

 

[airline tech]

Very Expensive - Shotgun of Harness
This can be fixed without it; however, it may take some deep T-Shoot to find the bad wire circuit.

With the Harness never being addressed with the Fan Clutch replacement, I HIGHLY suspect the issue is within the harness run that was pulled which is approximately 12 inches of wire.

This is a VREF Circuit and any issue along the circuit can take the circuit out, with only an Oil Press warning on the IPC, and this is the only Code showing up (Scanned) I would next go to the (Splice S152 & S156) feeding the Oil Press Switch & Variable Oil Pump.
Dependent on what code its giving.

Overall, I would say that depending on how deep of T-Shoot it takes, one should be able to locate the issue in under 4 hours due to the complexity of the integrated circuits, this takes lots of isolating various circuits.

So, it is a balance of Labor Time to T/Shoot vs Parts + Labor to Replace it.

Due to History (Fan Clutch), I truly believe the issue to be near that connector.
But to be clear, with the Fan Clutch (OE) was the hose broken and the inspection of the wire harness visually (Good)? - If (YES) I am sticking to this statement, and there is a high possibility of broken strands in that short harness run (Hidden) under the wrap.
Or did they just replace the Fan Clutch as precaution and no visible damage to the support hose?

 

[TJC]

I agree with your analysis. I also encourage folks to replace the clutch hose before this type of incident happens to you. It is quick, easy, and inexpensive insurance policy.

BTW, I noticed a correlation between low anti freeze, and EGR cooler failures that have lead to engine failures... seems it has to do with air pockets occurring when changing antifreeze. I've been researching vacuum coolant replacement tools. What would you recommend?

 

[airline tech]

I agree with your analysis. I also encourage folks to replace the clutch hose before this type of incident happens to you. It is quick, easy, and inexpensive insurance policy.

BTW, I noticed a correlation between low anti freeze, and EGR cooler failures that have lead to engine failures... seems it has to do with air pockets occurring when changing antifreeze. I've been researching vacuum coolant replacement tools. What would you recommend?

I have an older version of this one, its over 20 years old. I have not used it for a few years and have not used it on the Ranger (Yet) which reminds me I need to pull it out and ensure it will fit the reservoir; the tool does come with various adapter plugs to seal the neck of the tank.
I may need to repair/replace the shutoff valve as I suspect the seals are dried out (age) but the gauge part itself works flawlessly, I recall a small leak on the valve the last time I used it.

No matter what tool is used, they all are pretty much the same design

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