Long term reliability of the 2.3

[Jrel209]

My oil tested at 1.5 percent oil to gas dilution, not too bad and that was at roughly 7500 miles on the oil, so I move the oil change to 5K, which is where I would normally change my oil. I had been going by percent of life and trying to change at 50%. So I will go to 5K instead and keep my eye on it.

This is actually my plan, since its ALWAYS been my plan on all of my past cars. 6months or 5k miles. Funny thing is, I recently went in for a 'complementary' vehicle checkup beginning of April, for purchasing my truck with them, where they check/top levels off.

I asked if they could also change my oil (at the time it was about 1300miles) and the guy said I don't need to until 10k miles........I had to show him the manual that it says to change every 6 months, and the truck has been sitting on the lot since June. He seemed upset haha.

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[AdamHarris]

I would like to see one of the "really bad" oil dilution cases (where levels rise within 500 miles up to the twist, etc) just close the hood and drive the shit out of it and not change, or even check, the oil until the screen tells you too or you get to 10k miles (ok you can check it). I know I know, easy for me to say, its not my 40k$ truck that's effected, but I have this nagging felling that its not as serious problem as many are fearing..

 

[Samsquanch]

That would not fix the fuel to oil problem. The fuel is past to the crank and mixed with the oil once there there is no way to separate it from the oil . The blowing the pcv to the atmosphere is only going to solve a coking problem. I helped that problem with a catch can . It will still not solve it

Fuel and oil can be separated with heat such as when you run the engine. Look up fractional distillation. That is how you separate miscible liquids like fuel and oil. They boil off at different temperatures...

Gas will MOSTLY boil off at engine operating temp in the crank case, oil obviously boils at a much much higher temperature so it’s not boiling inside your engine.

 

[Jrel209]

I would like to see one of the "really bad" oil dilution cases (where levels rise within 500 miles up to the twist, etc) just close the hood and drive the shit out of it and not change, or even check, the oil until the screen tells you too or you get to 10k miles (ok you can check it). I know I know, easy for me to say, its not my 40k$ truck that's effected, but I have this nagging felling that its not as serious problem as many are fearing..

I think to be fair, most aren't necessarily 'fearing' its more of an FYI to all those asking (original post reasoning). I feel like its our duty as members to let ppl know some of the more known 'concerns' and/or 'issues' members have experienced or are currently experiencing. And you're right, this may end up being so inconsequential we'll look back at it and laugh, but there's also a chance (however low) 5 years down the road these engines all start failling.....who can say?

 

[Floyd]

I'd keep the whining out of the thread. There's plenty of others threads to menstrate in.

So go ahead!

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

Majority of people on this forum wont have to worry about long term reliability, they will have moved on to something else, maybe even upgrade to a newer ranger, it's already happening.

 

[Tom_C]

Majority of people on this forum wont have to worry about long term reliability, they will have moved on to something else, maybe even upgrade to a newer ranger, it's already happening.

Maybe true, but I tend to keep cars forever. I may change though. I drove a Toyota corolla for over 20 years. I had a Toyota truck for 25 years, and my wife had her original VW bug for over 30. But, now that we're all tethered to technology, I may need to upgrade sooner

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

Maybe true, but I tend to keep cars forever. I may change though. I drove a Toyota corolla for over 20 years. I had a Toyota truck for 25 years, and my wife had her original VW bug for over 30. But, now that we're all tethered to technology, I may need to upgrade sooner

The engine is probably the most reliable part of the vehicle next to the thin paint and all of the computer systems, interior, etc I feel like I'm more likely to have a computer system failure than a engine failure. systems are more complex than they were 20 years ago.

 

[Jrel209]

Majority of people on this forum wont have to worry about long term reliability, they will have moved on to something else, maybe even upgrade to a newer ranger, it's already happening.

I mean... thats not the best argument on whether or not a car is reliable.

 

[VAMike]

The engine is probably the most reliable part of the vehicle next to the thin paint and all of the computer systems, interior, etc I feel like I'm more likely to have a computer system failure than a engine failure. systems are more complex than they were 20 years ago.

This. The computers will eventually break, and they're an expensive PITA to fix on obsolete cars once the parts stockpile is sold out. That said, just about any modern car is more likely to last a long time than anything built 40 years ago. Old cars were easier to work on--which was good, because they needed a lot of work. Modern cars are hard to work on but mostly just keep going 100k or 200k miles without a lot of effort.

 

[SFB]

This. The computers will eventually break, and they're an expensive PITA to fix on obsolete cars once the parts stockpile is sold out. That said, just about any modern car is more likely to last a long time than anything built 40 years ago. Old cars were easier to work on--which was good, because they needed a lot of work. Modern cars are hard to work on but mostly just keep going 100k or 200k miles without a lot of effort.

Well put! I agree

 

[wanted33]

If it would give you peace of mind you can go online, and buy a genuine Ford extended warranty from a Ford dealer that sells them at a discount. After growing up in the late 60's, and 70's I don't worry much about vehicle engines any more. Back in those days if your engine lasted 100K miles without any serious problems you have a fantastic car. As a example the crank bearings went out on my Dads old Camaro (327 c.u.) at 80K miles. These days most vehicle engines are just getting broke in at 100k. Good luck on your decision.

 

[Apples]

All of this palaver is a Shakespearian moment: "Much to do about nothing!"

 

[Dmc]

So, no fuel in the oil... no catch can, right?
Guess mine will stay stock, at least for the first decade.
How many oil changes can you do for the price of a catch can?

It has nothing to do with gas and the oil .it is to stop the valves from cooking up and causing them not to close correctly. That will cause drivablity issues and a expensive repair

 

[D Fresh]

It has nothing to do with gas and the oil .it is to stop the valves from cooking up and causing them not to close correctly. That will cause drivablity issues and a expensive repair

While walnut blasting can be moderately expensive, chemical cleaners are fairly cheap. Not so sure about their effectiveness myself though.

Regardless, walnut blasting isn't that pricey.

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