LF Brake Issue - Severely worn outer pad and heat spots on rotor @ 40k miles

[Mustang2Ranger]

Hello everyone-

Usually I post by adding to others' posts

Today I have an issue of my own and am seeking input. I am very sad to have a issue with an otherwise amazing truck so far. Truck is still under extended warranty but I would like to avoid the dealer at all costs due to other mods and the rigmarole of their slow processes

Brakes/front suspension had not been touched prior to noticing the issue except for lift spacer and wheel spacer which I don't believe would relate

Around 38k miles I installed the Kings. At that time (not after) we noticed the heat spots on LF rotor, see pic. Those are only heat spots, no scoring. Pads were still good after inspecting, did not show signs of abnormal wear

After a few months, the heat spots were still there. I periodically wipe down my rims every few weeks to keep general dust off. Recently (last few weeks), I noticed the LF was waayyyy more dustier than the RF (no heat spots there, pads normal). So I wiped it off and within two weeks it was coated again. At this point I decide to pull it apart yesterday

Other than the heat marks on rotor, it appears fine. No pulling, some shake at high speed braking. Inner pad has plenty of life, see pic. Outer pad is almost gone, wtf. Slides appear not to be stuck, functioning normally. Caliper looks normal I suppose

Suspected causes and fix? I really hope this is not a caliper or controller issue. Hoping I can get by with new rotors, pads and greasing the slides, and new stainless hardware for the guides

Let me know what you all think

Sponsored

 

[My12SecRanger]

make sure the caliper slides are lubricated and free moving, if all seems well then, I suspect the start of a bad caliper.

 

[Trigganometry]

If it were me I would do what you’re saying. Most important is not only the slides the pads need to be able to float on the retainer clips. If they’re jammed in there this is how you wear one pad like that. Don’t cheap out on parts. Fronts are doing 80% of the stopping. Wouldn’t hurt to bleed system ether. Bed them when you get on the road again. Can’t see a caliper failure but it’s possible. Oh, edit: if you have Forscan do the ABS bleed too.

 

[PltFX4]

As mentioned above, the caliper pistons are sticking is the most likely suspect. Two other possibilities are the pads can't slide back on the guides (bent guide, missing, not lubricated, width of caliper just a bit too tight for the pad backing plate, whatever); the other is (low probability but only thing left) the brake line can't release line pressure after brake peddle release for unknown reason(s) (line blockage acting like a check valve?). I suppose one last item could be a defective brake pad...

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

Purchased new pads and rotors from dealer, should be here this weekend, will grease everything and put new parts on and see if it comes back which would mean it's the caliper or controller

Sponsored