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Left A/C Damper Motor Identification

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Looks like I'll be needing to replace my left A/C Damper Motor due repeated sensor failures indicated by B11E5:15-08 and intermittent weird temperatures from the vents.

I've got a dual zone system in my 2019 Ranger, so there are two motors on the left side of the HVAC Unit Case. Pretty sure one is the Left A/C Damper, and the other the Air Diverter control. Example attached.

Any idea which is which (upper/fwd vs lower/rear)? This section of the service manual doesn't appear to be on the forums so I'm flying blind.

Thanks,
Aaron

Left_Damper_Motors.PNG
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airline tech

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That failure code is for the Drivers Temp Door - Actuator, the lower one.
The manual calls for steering wheel to be removed for access, however I think with some patience and small hands it can be done without doing that.
If you search for clicking in dash type noises, you will find many threads on this.
I believe another member, just manually moves this actuator (Summer-Winter) and disconnects the connector. IIRC - (Az Scorpion?)

The Upper, is the Blend Door Actuator = Moves air distribution to Vents, Floor Etc.
 

airline tech

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Frenchy

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Before you replace that motor there's a good chance you might need to replace the entire HVAC box. There is a bulletin about it and the 2019 is certainly affected. I had to have it replaced on mine and luckily I was under warranty at the time. It is only covered by the 3 year 36, 000 bumper to bumper warranty and possibly an extended warranty if you have one.
 


AzScorpion

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Aaron, there's a lengthy thread on it here. My 2019 had this same problem and in post #25 there's a DIY fix you can do which is what I did. Some have had good luck having the dealer do it and others have had squeaks/rattles afterwards. If it's out of warranty (extended warranty will cover it) the cost is around $2,500.

After you take it apart the first time changing it from hot/cold is only a 15 minute job. The arm goes up for cold and down for hot. I elected to go this route because I didn't trust the dealers around here to do it right.
 
OP
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Thanks all!

@airline tech appreciate the ID on the correct position.

@Frenchy and @rang19ca I don't think its the deformed box in this case. The code is for sensor loosing signal (great video by fordtechmakuloco on why they do) and I'm not getting any mechanical noises from the unit. So hoping its just the controller not knowing what to do when it gets bad sensor data. Will check for freedom of movement when I pull the actuator.

@AzScorpion that video is exactly what I needed, giving it a go this weekend. Worst case I pull the actuator and just keep it set to full cold (Florida living). I'm not dropping $2500 into this thing over a stupid door.
 

AzScorpion

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Thanks all!

@airline tech appreciate the ID on the correct position.

@Frenchy and @rang19ca I don't think its the deformed box in this case. The code is for sensor loosing signal (great video by fordtechmakuloco on why they do) and I'm not getting any mechanical noises from the unit. So hoping its just the controller not knowing what to do when it gets bad sensor data. Will check for freedom of movement when I pull the actuator.

@AzScorpion that video is exactly what I needed, giving it a go this weekend. Worst case I pull the actuator and just keep it set to full cold (Florida living). I'm not dropping $2500 into this thing over a stupid door.
Aaron, it's not that hard at all and I think it took me under an hour to do it. The hardest part (it's not even that hard) is lining up and drilling the support to get to the center screw. It's just an awkward position you're working in but it's worth it to save $2,500. Good luck!
 

rang19ca

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OP, I hope it works out for you.
 

AzScorpion

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Mission success, just like the video but with specifically more cursing / talk of the truck's mother. Working great now. Thanks all.
We must have the same mother. :curse:?
 

rang19ca

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I think all us us have said those very words at one time, Ha Ha.
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